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Discussion Starter #1
Searched but couldnt find exactly what I was needing. I have an 07 10, 23xxx miles and im fixing to have the front forks serviced. Not a track day rider, but do ride backroads at a moderate pace. Im having a hard time dialing in the front suspension. (bike was bought used, prev owner did about 4-5 track days, plus rides to deals gap..never had them serviced) Seems the front either feels like it always wants to push the more i lean, (36psi cold tire pressure front) so ill fiddle with settings for a few days or so, then it feels like i have to make numerous steering inputs through the corner. I dont have the $$$ for a complete cartridge kit overhaul. Do you think i just need fresh fork oil, or would yall maybe recommend heavier oil/springs? If so, what wt on the oil/springs?? :dontknow: Thanks!!!
 

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Speed Freak
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you should probably give a call into racetech or check out their website.... http://www.racetech.com/

They sell replacement springs in all sorts of spring rates, going up one or two "rates" should help out with the bikes front dampening..... Running a heavier oil will help soak up the suspension but going to a heavier spring will help on what your "sag" should be at.
 

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Just get some race tech valves and springs, it'll be under 300 in parts. And drop that front psi down to bout 32 at the very minimum! You're running some really hard tires at that pressure and never getting the grip you should! You should be able to get your forks set up the way you like them for your weight for around 400 by a tech. Do a search though, there's a how to on changing oil by Garth and if you can get that done you can do the rest as well!!!
I'm sure someone will have some better advice but ghats my 2 cents. Good luck man! You're definitely due for new oil though!!
 

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Speed Freak
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on their site they have a calculator to tell you what springs you should run on your bike I did rider weight of 200lbs and a bike wet weight of 440

06-07 Kawasaki ZX-10R

1. Type of Riding:
Street
Racing
2. Rider Weight (without gear): lbs kg
3. Bike Weight (semi-wet): lbs kg
Note: Bike Weight is critical for Road Race applications where significant amounts of weight have been removed.
It is common for a race ready sport bike to be 25 to 50 lbs less than displayed.

Rider Weight: 200 lbs.
Bike Weight: 440 lbs.

FRONT FORK SPRINGS
Recommended Fork Spring Rate for Street: 1.003 kg/mm (use closest available)
Stock Fork Spring Rate: 1.000 kg/mm (stock)
Available FRSP S3825 Series Springs are:

Part Number
Description
Price Select to Buy
FRSP S3825085 RT FRK SPR 38.2x35x250 .85kg $109.99
FRSP S3825090 RT FRK SPR 38.2x35x250 .90kg $109.99
FRSP S3825095 RT FRK SPR 38.2x35x250 .95kg $109.99
FRSP S3825100 RT FRK SPR 38.2x35x250 1.00kg $109.99
FRSP S3825110 RT FRK SPR 38.2x35x250 1.10 kg $129.99
FRSP S3825120 RT FRK SPR 38.2x35x250 1.20 kg $129.99


REAR SHOCK SPRING
Recommended Rear Shock Spring Rate for Street: 9.75 kg/mm (use closest available)
Stock Shock Spring Rate: 8.3 kg/mm (stock)
Please call Tech Support 951.279.6655 for assistance.
 

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Even though you don't do track days, you should bring the bike out to the track during one of the track days... There is almost always a suspension guy there tuning the suspension settings for you. I usually pay $30 to get mine setup if I had to make changes.

As stated, drop your tire pressure to 30-32 cold as it will heat up and the pressure will increase. Get the correct shock spring (front looks spot on according to Garth's post) at a minimum when you get them serviced or do it yourself with a buddy, not that hard. Just get new seals and fork oil, unless you can save up for new valving... Remember, when you are messing with the settings on the front you need to tune the shock too, they work together.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Even though you don't do track days, you should bring the bike out to the track during one of the track days... There is almost always a suspension guy there tuning the suspension settings for you. I usually pay $30 to get mine setup if I had to make changes.

As stated, drop your tire pressure to 30-32 cold as it will heat up and the pressure will increase. Get the correct shock spring (front looks spot on according to Garth's post) at a minimum when you get them serviced or do it yourself with a buddy, not that hard. Just get new seals and fork oil, unless you can save up for new valving... Remember, when you are messing with the settings on the front you need to tune the shock too, they work together.
I did that with my prev bike and pretty much all he did was set my sag, a few clicks here n there on the fork settings and was done..lol but it did make it feel much more compliant. I will do that with this bike as well after i have em redone and can get out to a td event. Dealer wants about 300 to service them and add a heavier oil, I dont have the balls OR the proper tools/work area/knowledge to do them myself..lol. I will drop the a/p in the front to about 32 and maybe re-fiddle with the settings for a month or so..and try n save up a lil more $$ and have the springs/valves put in while theyre being serviced, or like you said at the least have the new springs put in. Looking at Garths info (thanks Garth) the stock spring is 1.000kg, and they recommend a 1.003kg/mm? According to the chart they say 'using the closest available' wouldnt i just stick to the stock 1.000kg/mm? Or jump up to the 1.10kg/mm.
 

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It has been brought up before that Racetech misspoke on the spring rate for the zx10r. It was shown on the forum that the actual spring rate is near .90 instead of the 1.0 that is shown on their website.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It has been brought up before that Racetech misspoke on the spring rate for the zx10r. It was shown on the forum that the actual spring rate is near .90 instead of the 1.0 that is shown on their website.
Ahhh..well that makes a difference, thanks for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just get some race tech valves and springs, it'll be under 300 in parts. And drop that front psi down to bout 32 at the very minimum! You're running some really hard tires at that pressure and never getting the grip you should! You should be able to get your forks set up the way you like them for your weight for around 400 by a tech. Do a search though, there's a how to on changing oil by Garth and if you can get that done you can do the rest as well!!!
I'm sure someone will have some better advice but ghats my 2 cents. Good luck man! You're definitely due for new oil though!!
Ok..made a decision here. gonna hold off having a custom map made (bike has one, but was done in another state.) and go for the racetech spring and G2 valve kit. My parts guy is giving me a HELL of a price on the stuff and im gonna have the forks done when they have my bike for its wayyy overdue 30000mile maint stuff. Should I go with a lil heavier fork oil as well, or jus the stock wt oil? Im prolly gettin this done in a week or so.
 

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Speed Freak
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if your going with the race tech spring you might have the dampening under control and ride height, If anything I would ask racetech what they recommend. They will know best!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
if your going with the race tech spring you might have the dampening under control and ride height, If anything I would ask racetech what they recommend. They will know best!
Imma be callin them tomorrow :mrgreen: and seein what they say bout that. Dont wanna add a heavier oil and it not really need it
 

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Speed Freak
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yeah exactly, I would just talk to them since your going with their valving and their springs, they will know what works best.

Does your mapping seem off at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yeah exactly, I would just talk to them since your going with their valving and their springs, they will know what works best.

Does your mapping seem off at all?
yea..i can tell a difference. When I went and bought the bike it seemed like it had more power in the bottom end..from like 2500-5000 rpm. plus was gettin about 115-120miles per tank around town. Soon as i got it back to Tx, power down low wasnt as good and im lucky to get 100miles to a tank in town. I know plugs/air filter blah blah can affect that, but it was literally like night and day. Bike still screams above 5000rpm tho. Ive tried some of the maps on the PC website, none of them seem to be any better than the other. I can wait a month or so on the map, its not THAT big a deal. id rather get the forks more compliant
 

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Good info.... i need to do something with mine also shes fine in corners but theres a strecth of road that has ripples and she just cant move fast enough and i have to slow down considerable to stay in contril wgile my buddy on his Honda has no problem what so ever $&%[email protected]%$ lol..
 

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Speed Freak
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yea..i can tell a difference. When I went and bought the bike it seemed like it had more power in the bottom end..from like 2500-5000 rpm. plus was gettin about 115-120miles per tank around town. Soon as i got it back to Tx, power down low wasnt as good and im lucky to get 100miles to a tank in town. I know plugs/air filter blah blah can affect that, but it was literally like night and day. Bike still screams above 5000rpm tho. Ive tried some of the maps on the PC website, none of them seem to be any better than the other. I can wait a month or so on the map, its not THAT big a deal. id rather get the forks more compliant
Oh I got ya, you could always try experimenting with the map your self in the areas it feels off. The dyno would be the easiest to deal with though.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Oh I got ya, you could always try experimenting with the map your self in the areas it feels off. The dyno would be the easiest to deal with though.

Good luck!
I tried that too...and 'fiddled' a bit with it some. Lowered quite a few that seemed pretty high compared to a map i had from my old bike saved. didnt notice a difference really. thats when i decided to jus get a new map done before i possibly lean it out too much
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Good info.... i need to do something with mine also shes fine in corners but theres a strecth of road that has ripples and she just cant move fast enough and i have to slow down considerable to stay in contril wgile my buddy on his Honda has no problem what so ever $&%[email protected]%$ lol..
See mine seems fine in straight lines...it the corners/transitioning that work my nerves lol. My 06 CBR1Kr i had felt WORLDS better in the twisties.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Anyone know if racetech has an 800 #? Or they gonna make me call long distance! lol:helmet:
 

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Speed Freak
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This is all I could find:

Email:

* Domestic Sales and Technical Information: [email protected]
* International Sales: [email protected]
* Race Team Manager: [email protected]
* Information: [email protected]
* Webmaster: [email protected]

Phone: 951.279.6655
Extensions:
Sales - Michelle - ext. 122
Sales - Brad - ext. 111
International Sales - Christie - ext. 107
ATV/Quad Info and Sales - Erica - ext. 123
Technical Support - Louie - ext. 109
Rider Support - Erick - ext. 116


Fax:
951.279.7171
951.284.0417 (International Sales)

Address: Race Tech
1501 Pomona Road
Corona, CA 92880
USA
 
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