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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I previously rode a 2011 ZX6R with stock suspension and with same type of tires (Michelin Pilot Power 3). There is a considerable difference in ease of turn-in compared to my 2009 ZX10R both in slow parking lot turning and on the track, understeer. On the track I would HAVE to use the front brake to load the front tire but doing that makes turn in a bit precarious with low pressures (30psi). I installed a G3-S rear shock from Race Tech and it seemed to improve some but now after lowering the stock forks 5mm (stock setting is flush with the triple tree) it feels better all around. If anyone has made a similar adjustment leave some feedback. I'm still experimenting with dialing in the geometry but it takes some time. I also sent in my stock Ohlins steering damper to racetech for a revalve. With an already lite front end and 150+ horsepower it is a must.
 

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Gen3 Geometry

Front end was way too stiff for me at 155lbs. I have fitted 0.9N springs and run with zero preload and rebound damping. Dropped front 5mm as appears to be universally recommended. Rear spring is too weak for most and bike squats under power, wallowing in bends. I havent done it yet, but I think it would benefit from more rear ride height, about 4-6mm. There appears to be too much rearward bias. I have a 95N spring in the rear, but I think I could go even higher, 105N (about 600lb). Gen3 is notoriously difficult to set up correctly, thanks Kawasaki :icon_confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Front end was way too stiff for me at 155lbs. I have fitted 0.9N springs and run with zero preload and rebound damping. Dropped front 5mm as appears to be universally recommended. Rear spring is too weak for most and bike squats under power, wallowing in bends. I havent done it yet, but I think it would benefit from more rear ride height, about 4-6mm. There appears to be too much rearward bias. I have a 95N spring in the rear, but I think I could go even higher, 105N (about 600lb). Gen3 is notoriously difficult to set up correctly, thanks Kawasaki :icon_confused:
Regardless of rider weight, when pushing on the bike it pivots at the steering nut which makes the already stiff forks less effective. I would not remove all the rebound damping, it should be set so that it returns as quickly as possible without a second stroke. The rear is too soft for most. I set mine at max preload and still had 38mm of rear SAG (I weigh ~215lbs with full gear). I spoke with a suspension guy at the track and he said even with shims and washers the shock wouldn't be at the right part of the stroke. I didn't really understand that part but ended up investing in a G3S shock from RaceTech. I'm pretty happy with it and it comes set up close enough (ride height wise). The damping valving in the stock shock isn't the greatest either.
 

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gen3 geometry

AFAIK its the shallow swing arm angle which creates the problem, about 11.9 degrees. 12.5 is considered optimum. Raising the rear would help, but apparently dropping the front actually makes it worse although turn in is better with the reduced trail.

My bike handles pretty well now, but I would still like some more forward bias. I'm thinking different linkage or shims.

I arrived at the front rebound setting after a lot of trial and error. It doesn't start a second stroke and feels good road or track.

When I changed out the fork springs we found there was too much fork oil and it appeared to be a heavier grade than 5wt. If you're still finding the front stiff it could be worth checking this out. My mechanic also reckoned the springs were a higher rating than 1.00kg

My rider sag is 38mm front and 25mm rear. Top out (negative) springs make setting sag difficult and needs a bit of trial and error.

Stock damping probably does have it's limitations and a fancy new shock would be nice, but not something I'm currently contemplating :icon_smile:
 

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I run .9kg/mm racetech springs up front, fork has 8mm showing above triple, ohlins ttx in the rear, I weigh 180 geared up. Huge improvement over stock but this setup is not pushed to the limit as im just a street rider.

After i had a pal install the springs, the fork was still a bit stiff and somewhat unresponsive. With the DLC fork leg coating my bike always had a tolerable amount of fluid seepage. One day my fork dramatically loosened up and works like butter. Im assuming he overfilled the forks slightly....

Sag is about 25mm front and 20mm rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
AFAIK its the shallow swing arm angle which creates the problem, about 11.9 degrees. 12.5 is considered optimum. Raising the rear would help, but apparently dropping the front actually makes it worse although turn in is better with the reduced trail.

My bike handles pretty well now, but I would still like some more forward bias. I'm thinking different linkage or shims.

I arrived at the front rebound setting after a lot of trial and error. It doesn't start a second stroke and feels good road or track.

When I changed out the fork springs we found there was too much fork oil and it appeared to be a heavier grade than 5wt. If you're still finding the front stiff it could be worth checking this out. My mechanic also reckoned the springs were a higher rating than 1.00kg

My rider sag is 38mm front and 25mm rear. Top out (negative) springs make setting sag difficult and needs a bit of trial and error.

Stock damping probably does have it's limitations and a fancy new shock would be nice, but not something I'm currently contemplating :icon_smile:
I wouldn't go any more than 13degrees. How do you measure swing arm angle? From the swing arm pivot to the rear axel but on the bike's own weight, on the side stand, or at the bottom with the bike on jack stands?
 

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Check out ZX10Rracer's thread "Swing arm angle WTF" . Suspension needs to be topped out (wheels clear of the ground)
 
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