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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
Been reading plenty of posts regarding the front caliper issues and don't worry, i'm not going to ask the usual stuff.

Can i just confirm, with regard to doing a straight swap from a ZX-6R or ZZR1400, do i need Kawasaki part numbers 43080-0046-DJ (right side) & 43080-0047-DJ (left side)?

These numbers seem to tie up with both bikes from the microfiches i just looked at.

Thanks,
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sorry, i meant to post this in the Gen 2 section.

Just to confirm, this is for a 2006-2007 model. Couldn't work out how to edit or move the post.

Thanks,
Dave
 

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Hi all,
Been reading plenty of posts regarding the front caliper issues and don't worry, i'm not going to ask the usual stuff.

Can i just confirm, with regard to doing a straight swap from a ZX-6R or ZZR1400, do i need Kawasaki part numbers 43080-0046-DJ (right side) & 43080-0047-DJ (left side)?

These numbers seem to tie up with both bikes from the microfiches i just looked at.

Thanks,
Dave
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b7b81f8700223e4798ebf/front-brake

Yup the numbers seem to be accurate as per microfiches but why not buy used mono blocks, of a CBR?? This subject has already been beat to death on here so I apologize for my input. For Gen2 I wasn't satisfied with the ZX14 caliper fix. Everyone is different and also at a different skill level / comfort zone. For me it did start to brake as soon as I touched the lever and the brake light didn't come on yet which is a no no for street so need a pressure switch. It's wood with no feel on a Gen2 and needs too much finger force on the lever for my liking with no feed back on when it is going to lock up and is a down grade in my opinion on braking control. It don't feel anything like that on the zx14 / ZX6r that I have driven where the braking is predictable and in perfect harmony with the bike. I can lock up my front wheel on my Gen1 with much less force and modulate with more accuracy and a "delicate touch" with just better pads, braided lines, stock calipers, stock linear master. So for me the "fix" is in the bleeding and better pads / lines / fluid and how much meat is left on the pads effects lever travel too. The amount of lever travel can be reduced by adding a ball bearing to the master if that is an issue. So if spending the money to upgrade the brakes by upgrading the master cylinder and calipers then why not a better master cylinder and mono blocks outside the zx14/zx6r suggested fix???
 

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https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b7b81f8700223e4798ebf/front-brake

Yup the numbers seem to be accurate as per microfiches but why not buy used mono blocks, of a CBR?? This subject has already been beat to death on here so I apologize for my input. For Gen2 I wasn't satisfied with the ZX14 caliper fix. Everyone is different and also at a different skill level / comfort zone. For me it did start to brake as soon as I touched the lever and the brake light didn't come on yet which is a no no for street so need a pressure switch. It's wood with no feel on a Gen2 and needs too much finger force on the lever for my liking with no feed back on when it is going to lock up and is a down grade in my opinion on braking control. It don't feel anything like that on the zx14 / ZX6r that I have driven where the braking is predictable and in perfect harmony with the bike. I can lock up my front wheel on my Gen1 with much less force and modulate with more accuracy and a "delicate touch" with just better pads, braided lines, stock calipers, stock linear master. So for me the "fix" is in the bleeding and better pads / lines / fluid and how much meat is left on the pads effects lever travel too. The amount of lever travel can be reduced by adding a ball bearing to the master if that is an issue. So if spending the money to upgrade the brakes by upgrading the master cylinder and calipers then why not a better master cylinder and mono blocks outside the zx14/zx6r suggested fix???
I have to agree with most of whats written here. I did the Nissin Caliper swap and i find the brakes very wooden with little feed back. I've tried different types of pads as well and have braided lines. If i had to do it again i'd keep the stock calipers and upgrade the MC first (Brembo RCS)...
I did find that if i reverse bled the stock calipers (pushed the fuild up from the caliper to the MC), i got a much firmer lever and better feel.
Cheers,
 

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Hi all,
Been reading plenty of posts regarding the front caliper issues and don't worry, i'm not going to ask the usual stuff.

Can i just confirm, with regard to doing a straight swap from a ZX-6R or ZZR1400, do i need Kawasaki part numbers 43080-0046-DJ (right side) & 43080-0047-DJ (left side)?

These numbers seem to tie up with both bikes from the microfiches i just looked at.

Thanks,
Dave
Your first mistake is considering to buy brand new OEM calipers. The calipers are awesome, but for $600, uhh no. You add a few hundred to that and you can get some bad ass Brembo mono blocks, not the shit units that come OEM from the gixxers.

Buy them used off Ebay or someone parting a bike out. You could do a total rebuild on them if you desired and still be making out.

I do not agree with the other 2 people replying about the calipers being crap. I would be willing to bet they are running complete garbage pads or did not properly scuff the rotors and they switched brake pad material type and the pads are not bedded in properly.

The caliper swap fixes the mushy lever, as ZX10 stated himself, they worked so well that the lever doesn't engage enough to even trigger the brake light.
Less lever travel is a problem? Isn't that way you did that in the first place...LOL. Get the proper brake switch from the newer M/C...problem solved.

What ZX10 and Chris_1973 are complaining about is 100%, without a doubt, directly related to brake pads. Pads control the feel and feedback on the brake system, period. What the rider prefers in a brake pad is purely preference (Progressive feel, strong initial bite, less initial bite, etc) , so there is no one correct universal answer to what brake pads to run.

Vesrah RJL's are awesome pads to run, that's all I've used this year to win the national championship for V8 HWT on my ZX10.
 

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I did the swap to cbr calipers and it was easily one of the best upgrades ever, only spent about $80 for the used calipers, took it to a local shop to do the install and make sure they worked lol. Only mistake is I went with EBC HH sintered pads.

The swap made one hell of a difference though going from the stock crap that came on the Gen 2. I can tell a big difference though when I ride my dad's ZX14r with the Nissin calipers that the others didn't seem to like, me personally I prefer the feel of the Nissin's it just felt more progressive to me as to where the cbr calipers and HH pads have a great initial bite but don't have that same progressive feeling the nissins seemed to have. I'm pretty sure my dad's bike has stock pads.

I'm no expert but those are just my experiences, I'm in the market for better pads now which I think is my the only issue but I'd definitely spring for a set of used nissin's or used cbr calipers and then rebuild if they need it. Would be way cheaper than buying new.
 

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I did the swap to cbr calipers and it was easily one of the best upgrades ever, only spent about $80 for the used calipers, took it to a local shop to do the install and make sure they worked lol. Only mistake is I went with EBC HH sintered pads.

The swap made one hell of a difference though going from the stock crap that came on the Gen 2. I can tell a big difference though when I ride my dad's ZX14r with the Nissin calipers that the others didn't seem to like, me personally I prefer the feel of the Nissin's it just felt more progressive to me as to where the cbr calipers and HH pads have a great initial bite but don't have that same progressive feeling the nissins seemed to have. I'm pretty sure my dad's bike has stock pads.

I'm no expert but those are just my experiences, I'm in the market for better pads now which I think is my the only issue but I'd definitely spring for a set of used nissin's or used cbr calipers and then rebuild if they need it. Would be way cheaper than buying new.

I have the Honda calipers on my ZX6 endurance bike and the Nissin's on my ZX10, and I have ridden them back to back at race weekends. Running the same pads on both bikes, the feel is exactly the same. The lever travel between the two is ever so slightly different but nothing drastic at all.
 

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I do not agree with the other 2 people replying about the calipers being crap. I would be willing to bet they are running complete garbage pads or did not properly scuff the rotors and they switched brake pad material type and the pads are not bedded in properly.
I never said the calipers are crap and they do work excellent on the ZX14 and on the ZX6R from the get go with stock pads. But they don't mate good with the stock master cylinder on a Gen2 in my experience. An informed and experienced effort was made on my part to install / scuff / bed, ZX14 stock pads, so I dono, but I'll take that bet :heyyou:

The caliper swap fixes the mushy lever, as ZX10 stated himself, they worked so well that the lever doesn't engage enough to even trigger the brake light. Less lever travel is a problem? Isn't that way you did that in the first place...LOL. Get the proper brake switch from the newer M/C...problem solved.
Short pull trigger action is desirable yes, and less lever travel is desirable, but least finger force on lever is also desirable and so is feel and feed back. I am respectfully questioning this go to “fix” and one of the most popular ones at that. The front brake switch for the ZX14 and ZX6R and Gen1 and Gen2 is same part number so that should translate into all of them being the exact same switch. The radial master cylinders of these bikes are not the same part numbers even though they look the same so I suspect that the difference is in the radial master cylinders of the ZX14 vs Gen2 ZX10R. I never changed the master cylinder on my Gen2 (I no longer have that bike), it was the stock radial unit so having the wrong switch does not come into the equation. There is virtually zero travel and the brake lever on the ZX14 is not like that at all and has enough give to accommodate the brake switch so the ZX14 calipers mate differently with the stock Gen2 ZX10R master cylinder and that is why there is a difference in feel and feedback. Isn’t the “fix” in changing the calipers? So why am I having to look at the master cylinder after applying the “fix” are the fighting words LOL.

What ZX10 and Chris_1973 are complaining about is 100%, without a doubt, directly related to brake pads. Pads control the feel and feedback on the brake system, period. What the rider prefers in a brake pad is purely preference (Progressive feel, strong initial bite, less initial bite, etc) , so there is no one correct universal answer to what brake pads to run.

Vesrah RJL's are awesome pads to run, that's all I've used this year to win the national championship for V8 HWT on my ZX10.

Reading this I have to second guess myself on pads but those same pads have excellent feel and feed back when they are on the ZX14 mated with ZX14 master cylinder so the feel and feedback difference has to be in the master cylinder by process of elimination. The Gen2 ZX10R stock master cylinder mates differently with the ZX14 calipers. I agree that pads control the feel and feedback but to my knowledge and experience so do master cylinder specs and ratios.

What master cylinders are you running on your bikes if you don't mind my asking.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b7b81f8700223e4798ebf/front-brake

Yup the numbers seem to be accurate as per microfiches but why not buy used mono blocks, of a CBR?? This subject has already been beat to death on here so I apologize for my input. For Gen2 I wasn't satisfied with the ZX14 caliper fix. Everyone is different and also at a different skill level / comfort zone. For me it did start to brake as soon as I touched the lever and the brake light didn't come on yet which is a no no for street so need a pressure switch. It's wood with no feel on a Gen2 and needs too much finger force on the lever for my liking with no feed back on when it is going to lock up and is a down grade in my opinion on braking control. It don't feel anything like that on the zx14 / ZX6r that I have driven where the braking is predictable and in perfect harmony with the bike. I can lock up my front wheel on my Gen1 with much less force and modulate with more accuracy and a "delicate touch" with just better pads, braided lines, stock calipers, stock linear master. So for me the "fix" is in the bleeding and better pads / lines / fluid and how much meat is left on the pads effects lever travel too. The amount of lever travel can be reduced by adding a ball bearing to the master if that is an issue. So if spending the money to upgrade the brakes by upgrading the master cylinder and calipers then why not a better master cylinder and mono blocks outside the zx14/zx6r suggested fix???

Maybe i misread on the other threads about this subject, but i thought the CBR calipers required spacers? i was looking for a straight swap.
Also, i hadn't realised the brake light wouldn't come on, that's a problem for me as i only ride on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Your first mistake is considering to buy brand new OEM calipers. The calipers are awesome, but for $600, uhh no. You add a few hundred to that and you can get some bad ass Brembo mono blocks, not the shit units that come OEM from the gixxers.

Buy them used off Ebay or someone parting a bike out. You could do a total rebuild on them if you desired and still be making out.

I do not agree with the other 2 people replying about the calipers being crap. I would be willing to bet they are running complete garbage pads or did not properly scuff the rotors and they switched brake pad material type and the pads are not bedded in properly.

The caliper swap fixes the mushy lever, as ZX10 stated himself, they worked so well that the lever doesn't engage enough to even trigger the brake light.
Less lever travel is a problem? Isn't that way you did that in the first place...LOL. Get the proper brake switch from the newer M/C...problem solved.

What ZX10 and Chris_1973 are complaining about is 100%, without a doubt, directly related to brake pads. Pads control the feel and feedback on the brake system, period. What the rider prefers in a brake pad is purely preference (Progressive feel, strong initial bite, less initial bite, etc) , so there is no one correct universal answer to what brake pads to run.

Vesrah RJL's are awesome pads to run, that's all I've used this year to win the national championship for V8 HWT on my ZX10.
Hi, not a mistake, i wasn't planning on buying new calipers, just wanted to confirm part numbers so i knew exactly what i was looking for.
It appears i will also need a replacement brake switch, but i don't remember seeing that in the other threads on this subject, i thought it was just simply a case of swapping calipers over.
 

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Ahh yes, forgot about that good ol' spacer, I think the required spacer is 5mm, don't quote me on that though. I could try and look up the exact number if ya need.

I agree about wanting a straight swap though, that was my initial thing too but I couldn't find a set of nissin's in my price range and the spacers were only like $5 more so I pulled the trigger and haven't really looked back since. Except for the brake pads, I seriously need to do that next.

As for the brake light, I didn't notice mine not engaging after the swap. I can try to confirm this for you if you'd like later tonight when I get home but from what I remember my brake light engages as soon as the brake is applied.
 

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Maybe i misread on the other threads about this subject, but i thought the CBR calipers required spacers? i was looking for a straight swap.
Also, i hadn't realised the brake light wouldn't come on, that's a problem for me as i only ride on the road.
Brake light comes on after the brake is already engaged and only comes on when braking much harder and the problem with that on the street is obvious. This is a non issue as pressure switches are fairly common and inexpensive.

Being scared of caliper spacers is like being scared of needing a longer bolt or shorter for that matter. They are standard equipment on many setups including Brembo and CBR1000RR.

If i had to do it again i'd keep the stock calipers and upgrade the MC first (Brembo RCS)...
That is what I would do to actually upgrade the braking. I don't think the calipers are the problem. I am confident that I can make the stock setup work just as good on a Gen2 as I did on my Gen1 with just better pads / better fluid / good bleed. Installing a Brembo RCS would be an actual upgrade. I can be wrong and its a learning experience always but I think its a ratio issue which can be changed and manipulated by changing the calipers or the master cylinder and I have already tried the caliper route and wasn't satisfied. Again keep in mind the zx14 caliper setup might be the best thing there is for someone on the race track or more use to that type of braking. Performance is all relative and a compromise somewhere and my perspective depends on where I am willing to compromise and where not at all.

Read this, the post by Shazaam explain it better then I ever can. 19x18 or 19x20 Brembo Master Cylinder? - Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum
 

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Calipers are the issue, not the M/C. Feel free to leave the OEM calipers in place and put on the RCS. It will make some change, not as much as just the calipers.

I have personally tried over a dozen setups on my bikes and my friends' bikes over the years.

The complaints I keep reading about are all brake pad related, changing the M/C or calipers does nothing but change the feel/firmness of the brake lever itself.

100% promise you if you put shitty pads on brembo calipers (kind of hard in this example as they don't really make too shitty of a pad for them...still) and brembo RCS, you'd still have shit feeling brakes. Lever would be hard as a rock, would have that "wooden" feel when braking however.
 

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Calipers are the issue, not the M/C. Feel free to leave the OEM calipers in place and put on the RCS. It will make some change, not as much as just the calipers.

I have personally tried over a dozen setups on my bikes and my friends' bikes over the years.

The complaints I keep reading about are all brake pad related, changing the M/C or calipers does nothing but change the feel/firmness of the brake lever itself.

100% promise you if you put shitty pads on brembo calipers (kind of hard in this example as they don't really make too shitty of a pad for them...still) and brembo RCS, you'd still have shit feeling brakes. Lever would be hard as a rock, would have that "wooden" feel when braking however.
That's a 100% spot-on post right there!

This has been posted dozens of times prior I suppose one more won't hurt at this point
ROGUE RACING Brake Pads Review Page
 

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The Nissin's are a direct swap. No spacer, switch or reverse bleeding needed.

Do the Nissin direct swap and as others have said, get some good pads.

I've done the Nissin swap on my track only G2 and it's a good set up and
all you will need.

I have the exact same set up on both my track only ZX10 G2 and ZX14, Stock Nissin M/C, Nissin Calipers and braided lines.

Still searching for the pads I like best, but makes all the difference.

Just went through a set of the CL C60's lasted 8 track days (800 miles) and they are toast, trying a set of SBS's next.

I use the little pads on a drill to clean rotors when changing compounds.
 

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The Nissin's are a direct swap. No spacer, switch or reverse bleeding needed.

Do the Nissin direct swap and as others have said, get some good pads.

I've done the Nissin swap on my track only G2 and it's a good set up and
all you will need.

I have the exact same set up on both my track only ZX10 G2 and ZX14, Stock Nissin M/C, Nissin Calipers and braided lines.

Still searching for the pads I like best, but makes all the difference.

Just went through a set of the CL C60's lasted 8 track days (800 miles) and they are toast, trying a set of SBS's next.

I use the little pads on a drill to clean rotors when changing compounds.
I like the setup on my street bike as well. Also, I don't know what all this is about the switch not working. My brake lights come on right away. I can hear the click of the mechanical switch and they are on. Not sure what difference calipers would make with a mechanical switch, but I'm all ears.

Sent from my XT1045 using Tapatalk
 

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It's only a matter of time until people come on here to try and point out the fact that the gen 2 M/C is a different PN than the ZX14, but they don't realize:

1) They're both radial masters
2) They're both the same sized piston
3) They're different colors, hence different PN

4) LDH and I will only read the posts and shake our heads as they continue to chase their tail when we told them what to change from the get-go. LOL
 

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LDH and I will only read the posts and shake our heads as they continue to chase their tail when we told them what to change from the get-go. LOL
I already done the swap convinced by posts like yours. Did 2013 ZX14R calipers / stock ZX14 pads / used existing galfer lines. Before I did the swap I also read this thread http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/2nd-gen-master-cylinder-95251.html where the feed back is absolutely against this swap. I did the swap anyways.

So your not the only one shaking their head. I have already given my feed back based on my experience for what its worth and I am interested in this topic because I am planing on getting a Gen2 again at some point. Anyways people can figure it out for themselves. I got a headache and I wash my hands of this thread :BangHead::dontknow::confused::suicide:
 

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In that old, 2010 thread, someone mentioned adding some very small shims to the lever....any idea who sells these, or how to get them?
 
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