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Discussion Starter #1
I installed ZX-14 calipers today and went for a ride. I have to say I was disappointed. After reading, researching, and expecting a noticeable improvement, boom, nothing!!! Is it me??? my set up??? did I miss something??? Here how I started the front brake mods:

Goodridge SS lines, stock M/C, stock calipers, stock pads. I read that just doing the lines will not improve the feeling, but I performed the steps noted in this post, http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=51883&highlight=bleeding, and made a biiiig difference.

Today, I replaced the the Tokicos with ZX-14 NISSIN calipers. Everything else remained as stated above. I performed the same bleeding steps. I did not notice any improvement when compared to the above set up.

I am using stock 14 pads, and used stock pads with the stock calipers. I tried to buy aftermarket pads for the 14 calipers, but non of the dealerships or local shops have them. I had to place an order. Is that the step I'm missing, new aftermarket pads??? if thats the case, I could have kept the Tokicos and just buy new aftermarket pads for the stock calipers!!!

May be I expected to much.
 

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Just get over it...

I race my 04 ZX10r every two weeks... the brakes suck... but they work enough for a full day at the track...

keep them really clean, calipers, disks etc.. use HH pads... the best fluid... braided lines... bleed them often... change fluid often... and they'll stop you from 280kph to corner speed as good as any...

Stop being a wuss...
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Discussion Starter #5
Just get over it...

I race my 04 ZX10r every two weeks... the brakes suck... but they work enough for a full day at the track...

keep them really clean, calipers, disks etc.. use HH pads... the best fluid... braided lines... bleed them often... change fluid often... and they'll stop you from 280kph to corner speed as good as any...

Stop being a wuss...
Hmmm...
 

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yea can't say as i blame ya.

Try removing the calipers and then pads and squeeze the lever so the pistons are nearly out and then push them back into the calipers with your fingers but make sure there's room in the resevoir for the fluid and then reinstall the pads and bleed again.


BD
 

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Hmmm back atcha...

BD... great advice man... clean and bleed, right???????

Jesus...

HRA.. you're riding on the street?? Track?? Twisties?? what?? None of us are GP championship racing for chriss-sake...

You're brakes are as good as they're gonna get... spend another 10k, it wont make any difference... Just clean them, bleed them, often...
 

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Must still have some air somewhere I changed mine out & still have the stock MC & I can stop with 1 or 2 fingers barley pull the lever back & nothing but brake.Try bleeding them a few more times see what happens.
 

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does the lever engage any faster then before at all on them? I know my level will start to get pressure in it with about 1/2" of pull in...... possibly have some air left in there???? My brakes are extremely solid and I did this mod on a customers 06' with stock lines it would lift the rear tire off the ground with ease......
 

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i have a 05 zx636 m/c and 06 cbr 1000rr calipers along with braded lines. and my first ride out i about stoppied over with a light pull of the lever.
 

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Whats a good cleaning fluid to use on the pistons and calipers fellows? BTW hraponte be sure your bleeding the system in the right order. ex. master than left or right/furthest away then closest caliper.
 

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I agree, you most likely have air in the system still somewhere. Short of going to a Brembo master cylinder, swapping on a 05/06/07 ZX6R radial master will also help. I've swapped to the Nissin calipers on my 05 ZX6R and they really do make a difference.

For cleaning calipers, you can use brake cleaner. Pull them off, remove the pads and squeeze the lever a little to get the pistons to come out some. Hose down the inner part of the calipers over a drip pan, using an old tooth brush to scrub the really heavy deposits. Spray again until clean. You can also use Simple Green, an old tooth brush and some rags. Takes a little longer like that but works just as good. Once the pistons are clean, push them back into the caliper until they are flush with the caliper body and finish cleaning around them. Make sure everything is completely dry, reinstall the pads and then the calipers and then rebleed the brakes.

For bleeding the brakes, I have always bled them until no more air comes out, then secured the brake lever so the brakes are fully on and left it that way for a few hours. Then release the brake lever and bleed again. Produces a nice, solid lever and great braking action. As stated already, start with the master cylinder, then do the left caliper, the right caliper and it doesn't hurt to do the master one more time to finish up. make sure all the bleed screws are snugged up real good with the rubber caps in place, check for leaks anywhere and clean up any fluid that might have leaked while bleeding.
 

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05 stock m/c, Motul RBF 600 fluid, Goodridge steel lines, HH pads and my brakes are just fine. Never had an issue with brake fade. Never changed the fluid all last summer. I really think it has more to do with braking style than anything.
 

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Whats a good cleaning fluid to use on the pistons and calipers fellows? BTW hraponte be sure your bleeding the system in the right order. ex. master than left or right/furthest away then closest caliper.
soap & water with your toothbrush and when yer done please return it to the wifes side..:mrgreen:

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My point was lost. My brakes work great, but I DID NOT SEE A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DOING A GOOD BLEED WITH STOCK CALIPERS AND SS LINES WHEN COMPARED TO THE SAME SET UP WITH NISSIN CALIPERS. Did I make it clear??? Maybe, as mentioned by booken before, the solution to the stock system is to do a good bleed. I just wanted opinions.
 

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Yes no matter what the bleed is essential, hence many ways in combination to acheive it.

I'm one of those guys that does it manually with great results while others use mity-vacs and such with quicker results but not nearly as effective.

BD
 

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My point was lost. My brakes work great, but I DID NOT SEE A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DOING A GOOD BLEED WITH STOCK CALIPERS AND SS LINES WHEN COMPARED TO THE SAME SET UP WITH NISSIN CALIPERS.
ok hows the actual performance of them vs the OEM calipers?? or more to the point after repeated heavy use with the system being taxed turn after turn???

BD
 

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My point was lost. My brakes work great, but I DID NOT SEE A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DOING A GOOD BLEED WITH STOCK CALIPERS AND SS LINES WHEN COMPARED TO THE SAME SET UP WITH NISSIN CALIPERS. Did I make it clear??? Maybe, as mentioned by booken before, the solution to the stock system is to do a good bleed. I just wanted opinions.
I changed lines first and the brakes felt better, then changed the calipers and the lever is a bit more solid (bites faster) but nothing night and day. The BIG difference you will notice is that the brakes will not fade and become spongy anymore and that is the gain with the 14 calipers. Check the 14 pads and make sure the aren't soaked with brake fluid (during shipping) cause if they have any brake fluid on em they're garbage.
________
Wendie 99
 
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