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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed two weeks ago that my front brake was starting to loose feel and stopping power, but i didn't have the time to deal with. Today a friend of mine (who works at a Kawi dealer) rode my bike for about 10 miles. His comments was "You've set the suspension great pal, but you've got to do something with those brakes ... This is not typical ZX10R brakes...". We checked the pads, they look like they have at least 2000 khms beforte they need to be replaced ...

Any ideas of what to check? I'm allready thinking of puting the radial pump of '05 ZX6R on, but i would like to identify the problem first...
 

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Just a couple of thoughts, bleed them, others including myself have removed a wafer thin stainless shim thats attached to the backside of each pad and noticed a firmer feel, another thought is to remove the calipers/pads and push the pistons back inside (possibly forcing any air into the lines) and reinstall the pads and a final bleed.

BD
 

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Mine got the same way, after they had been bled once already too. Just flushed mine with some new fluid (Motul) and wow what a difference again lol.

-Frank
 

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It has been tracked down to the pad compound b WStaab...BD knows this guy...Many of us have gone to either a R1 master cylinder or Brembo. Those will get you right as rain.
 

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So do you just have to change to a different compound pad or change the master cylinder or both? Mine are the same way. They get soft, bleed, fixed, then soft, bleed, fixed. My mech told me that if I remove the stainless shims that I might get a slight rattle or vib from the pads when I'm off the brakes. Any truth?
 

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I doubt you'll get any rattle or vibe from removing the stainless shim, you will get squeaky brakes if you remove the stainless 'anti-rattle' springs(the ones that sit in the top of the pads and are held in place by the pad mounting bolts). I have done this to try and keep the brakes a little cooler by way of more airflow through the pads/caliper.
 

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I removed the shims and it helped ALO, but I came off of a 636 and they use the same master cylinder and calipers, actually 636 rotor are 20mm smaller so why would it have more power?...the only difference can be the pads...people have tried the 636 pads with great luck...I'm using Galfer HH since I got them with my galfer lines for cheap..cal-sportbike or flatout great deals on galfer. Usually 140-160 for pads and lines and maybe fluid if they are offering a special.
 

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the new 636 uses the radial pump master cyl, as does the 03-05 R1. I think they were talking about swapping out the master cyl for that of the 636, not the pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What's interesting is that if you take a look at the online parts diagram, master cylinder - calipers and disks have all the same part number on 04 and 05 ZX-10R. The only thing that has different part number is the brake pads ...
 

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Gladding, you're saying removing 92145 to get more airflow over the pads, right? Not having the similar piece on my TL calipers made them very rattley (is that a word?) - the pads sliding around with just the pins holding them in place.

BD, do you think the little plate, that affixes to the rear of each pad, compresses? I could believe that removing that might result in a little more solid feel; not much though. I thought that plate was there to protect the rim of the piston from actually touching whetever material the pad backing is made of.

I've only changed pads to EBC HH (was nice to find they could just slide out the back!) and only ridden a few hundred Daytona bike week miles on them but my initial impression is that the EBC's have much better initial bite.

The stock pads I took out had "HH" on the back and the split pad face giving 2 leading edges. So initially I was worried that the EBC's, with one solid face, would be no better and possibly worse. Fortunately, they are much better.


 

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no gladding is talking about the copper disk on the back of each pad.
gladding, i said I came off a 636 which means it was pre 05, and pre the radial MC.
 

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BNninja said:
no gladding is talking about the copper disk on the back of each pad.
gladding, i said I came off a 636 which means it was pre 05, and pre the radial MC.
Huh? Copper? Regardless, no, I don't think so:

"I doubt you'll get any rattle or vibe from removing the stainless shim, you will get squeaky brakes if you remove the stainless 'anti-rattle' springs(the ones that sit in the top of the pads and are held in place by the pad mounting bolts). I have done this to try and keep the brakes a little cooler by way of more airflow through the pads/caliper."
 

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okay they might be stainless, for some reason I remember them being amber so I said copper.
 

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anybody notice any difference by adding the braided lines.
 

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I noticed more of a difference when I changed to Galfer hh pads than the line change.

I still have the stainless, copper, amber 'ant rattle' springs over the pads but they rattle anyway.
 

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I removed those dust covers (i think you are calling them anti rattle springs) part number 92145... I rode 1000 miles with them off. I didn't think they would make much of a difference, but they did.

First, the EBC HH pads tend to rattle around a lot more without the dust covers in place, especially at about 55-65 mph. It becomes loud enough to be annoying. The second most annoying thing was that the brakes squeeked horribly! I sounded like a freakin' school bus stopping.

I put those dust covers back on and the feel seems more linear than before. Without the dust covers it would initially bite faster, but the feel was not very smooth.

just my 2 cents
 

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you do not want to remove #92145 these hold your pads in place. the stainless shim on the back of the pad you are removing....just my two cents..
 
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