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Discussion Starter #1
I want to preface this by admitting it was not my idea, but I found it on another forum while searching. Here is the Idea- If you have a power commander, use a generic pull switch and 9v battery adapter to make your own quickshifter instead of dropping $260.

Here is the thing- I want to make sure the connections are correct, so if you have a quickshifter, take a look and confirm for me the position of the pins on the expansion port plug. Also, does this item come with software?

The how-to:
1. get a PC 9v adapter
2. cut off the 9v plug and de-pin the red plug and move it to the top row corner opposite the black plug. (this location is what i want to confirm) in photo one the old location is shown with the black arrow and the location of the wires on a real DJ Quickshifter should be those shown by the black arrows.
3. use a switch to activate the quick-shift- the second photo shows my proof-of-concept experiment using the brake light switch from a 1000RR. Due to space constraints I chose to try it backwards with the switch on the shift rod- it works great... and YES I am going to secure it better than with 3 zip-ties :thumbsup: In the photo arrows point to the brake light switch and wires which go to the PC
4. connect the proper length of wire to reach your PC from the switch- it doesn't matter which color wire is which because all you need is continuity to activate the quick-shift.
5. find yourself the software to activate the quickshift function of the PC if it is needed...

Guys with a Quickshifter- chime in and help me finish this project!:heyyou:
 

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Is this only an option for the second & third gen bikes? If I recall, doesn't the first gen use fuel cut where the other two require an ignition module and kill ignition instead.
 

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Only 3rd gen needs IM module. 1,2 Gen do not.

1 & 2 nd Gen just need to hook up some sort of switch, download the shift enable software and have it.

Thats because 1st and 2nd gen have only primary injectors and the PC will cut fuel when the switch is activated completely killing the motor for a few milliseconds.

3rd Gen needs a IM module because the secondary injectors will still be firing fuel if only PC is used. When IM module is hooked up to 3rd gen, spark and fuel both are cut.
Aha. So this would work on a first gen. Same pins as a second gen?
 

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I dont like how the op has his switch mounted though. Kinda ugly. If you look at the switch in one of my pics above you see it has 2 metal nuts on it. You just fabricate a bracket for that and bolt it to water pump cover screw or something, hook the spring around the heim joint, adjust the switch with a VOM until it just trips when the shifter moves and it works as flawlessly as the dynojet sensor.

Dale Walker still sells these.
Do you have any pics of the mounting like that?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am currently fabricating a bracket to hold the sensor... I just wanted to see if it would work the way it was mounted before-

I will post pictures when I finish making the bracket tomorrow.
 

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I ordered up a universal switch today. Won't be in until next week, and I won't have time to play around with it until the following weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yea i'm in Woodstock and I have friends and coworkers in Hiram... shoot me a message sometime and we can go ride. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is how I have mounted it and so far it works good- once I get the engagement fine tuned (and the kill time where I like it) it will be perfect.
I used a wire and fitting between the shift rod and its lock-nut so I wouldn't have to drill the shift rod; it seems to work fine for now.

IMG_3136.JPG

IMG_3137.JPG
 

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Pretty cool setup. Looks good but I agree with MM's suggestions to improve. Wish I had the skills to make a simular braket for my 07. Frabrication just isn't my thing.
 

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damn, why havent i seen this before! Thanks to IB2cool10 and Magic Mavis! I will be trying this out very soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think you are seeing it backwards. When you upshift you lift up on the shifter and the rod is pushed forward pulling the switch by the spring.
 

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I think you are seeing it backwards. When you upshift you lift up on the shifter and the rod is pushed forward pulling the switch by the spring.
Yep, after looking at my bike I saw I was looking at it backwards. Got my switch in, going to do this myself starting this weekend. I think the hardest part is going to be fabbing the bracket (if you want it to look good), and re-pinning the harness isn't easy for everyone. (After I f*cked with it for a few minutes my buddy stole it and took it to his work, where he works as an electrician for a niche truck builder, and used the proper tool to re-pin it.)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
One wire does nothing- only the 2 which go into the white connector do anything- I believe its green and blue.
 
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