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going thru one corner with 180 km/h and front go unstable , and after i change the pistons go thru the same corner with 200 km/h without front go unstable .

What U think ? For me this will give more fast REB (hi and low) and more fast HI COMP .
So you have A LOT of unknown variables to be able to say its valving. Im not saying you're wrong, but to give an educated guess, more information is needed.

What problem are you actually trying to fix? Is the front end moving in the corner like you stated?

If so, what part of the corner (enter, mid, exit)?
Are you on the brakes or off?
If on the brakes how hard?
Are you on the throttle or off?
If on the throttle, how far into it?

What springs are in your forks?
Oil level?
How much preload?
Where were your comp and reb at before you changed to Bitubo?
How much trail do you have?

What shocK?
Spring rate and preload?
Valving?
Comp and reb on shock?
Swing arm angle?

Tires?
Pressure?

While the vavling seems to be helping, it may not the actual underlying issue. Knowing the whole story will allow one to make a better guess to what direction to go.
 

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My story is long. When I take this bike I setup the sag. I do REB and COMP settings (on fork and shock ). But was very stiff in back . The problem was REB on the shock was only 1/4 IN from full open . And in this case if I put softer spring (stock is 10kg/mm2 , i will go for 9-9.3kg/mm2) will go out of adjustment . Then I decided to take new shock . I take Elka with 9.4kg/mm2 and change the oil (it was 2nd hand) . I tune REB and COMP on the shock and finally rear stop kicking me and start to move through the bumps .

The problem on the front was after mid corner if I apply little power , or I am lying down with hi speed front goes light and bars start to move side to side ( little , not wobble ) . Then I rise the rear , put more low speed COMP but with no change . This mean for me the problem is to slow REB on the forks. Then I change the oil on the forks and setup the lock nut to have more cliks of REB . After that REB was almost full open BUT same thing when I go fast . Just this forks are made for ton of preload or just they are to slow of REB(I am for 2nd).

Now after re-valve front not going light and keep the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I still haven't tested the bike on track or at all for that matter so I can't really come up to any conclusion.

One other thing I wanted to learn about is my 2004 zx10r has only 2 lines showing on fork preload and the sag is still a bit over 30mm, I weigh 170 fully suited so are they the stock springs? some people say they came stock with 9.0 others say 10.0 ?! If i had to guess i'd say 9.0 is correct.

Is that expectable? Because the topout spring is compressing slightly as is.

Another thing that I have always been curious about is those öhlins units that equip ducatis and aprilias from the factory, are they up to par with an aftermarket shock or set of forks from the same brand that you find on aftermarket, or, are they of lesser quality? Can someone elaborate on that? Thanks
 

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Another thing that I have always been curious about is those öhlins units that equip ducatis and aprilias from the factory, are they up to par with an aftermarket shock or set of forks from the same brand that you find on aftermarket, or, are they of lesser quality? Can someone elaborate on that? Thanks



The vast majority of Ducati OEM Ohlins are inferior to the aftermarket Ohlins. Most of the Ohlins OEM fitments for other brands have traditionally been inferior to aftermarket Ohlins as well, but that is starting to change. In the last several years Aprilia and Triumph have been putting some pretty good Ohlins stuff on their production bikes especially in regards to the 30mm NIX forks. The internals aren't quite up to the same level of the aftermarket forks, but the valve specs in many cases are identical or damn close to it. The 25mm OEM Ohlins forks not so much... They need an additional upgrade to a SBK valve kit to really get them to act right for aggressive use. That being said in some cases we are also revalving some of the latest & greatest NIX30 forks like the ones on the Ducati V4S too, but it is a lot easier (& cheaper) to change a valve spec on a 30MM NIX than it is to install 4 new valves on an older 25mm kit.



The biggest difference between OEM Ohlins and aftermarket Ohlins currently is that so many of the OEM Ohlins are now Electronically Controlled which leads to inconsistency in the feel and feedback for the rider. Even when you put the electronics into manual mode they still have things going on beyond the settings that have been chosen. Nobody races on EC suspension and they all go to Manual Controls.



Lastly items like the Ohlins FKR spring charged race cartridges are simply not available as OEM fitment for street bikes and never will be so there will always be that disparity between OEM and Aftermarket. That is where the real performance advantages come into play at the top of the game.
 

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Stock front springs are 1 kg/mm2 !

They are probably with the same quality. But they like a normal suspension will be for a big range of riders.
 

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In the moment is ~230 GBP .

I was thinking about buying Bitubo fork cartridge , but today finally I test valves kit on the track .... Yep the cartridge will be better , BUT front now is awesome . Hard trail braking - no problem . Full throttle exit from the corner - no problem . The track is VERY bumpy - no problem .

And I to not talk " completely subjective" things :D old time was 01:10:0** , now is 01:07:6** .
 
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