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Chickenstrip Eater
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Discussion Starter #1
Who has actually done this, results? I've searched here but that's only a couple threads with only a few posts. My stock 07 rotors were either warped or frozen on the buttons so I'm running a set from a1st gen. The first gen rotors float freely on the buttons while my stockers have zero lateral movement. Stock rotors had 5k on them with 5 trackdays and they shit the bed, not impressed. The 1st gen has a different washer and the carrier has more material and strength so I'm wondering of that's why my stockers warped. Either wayI'm going to cut the washers from the buttons and give em a try. I'm aware that they will make noise, other than that has anyone here actually done this?
 
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I dont think any of the gens come with true full floating rotors.
 

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REPOST Enforcement Mod
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Tried doing this to my old ZX-7R stock rotors. The spring washers are under the retaining lip for the carrier buttons. You can't get any tool in there to cut them out, there's just not enough room without severely damaging the carrier. I also found an article about someone with an old 900RR who was able to press the rotor down on the buttons to "over spring" the washers so there was no more force on the rotor itself which allows them to float free. Tried the same procedure on mine and wasn't able to get the springs to flip because you can't force the buttons past the retaining lip. Gave up after several hours and not finding a way to do this without damaging the disk.

Seems much easier to me now to just keep the carrier buttons clean (brake cleaner every few hundred miles) from brake dust and road grime so that they actually move instead of freezing up like that.
 

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Chickenstrip Eater
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Discussion Starter #4
I dont think any of the gens come with true full floating rotors.
Correct, all of em have semi floating rotors. Problem is my stock 2nd gen had absolutely no play at all. compared side by side with the 1st gen set I bought its nite and day difference. 1st gen rotors use a wave style washer while 2nd gens have a conical style. Even when cleaned and free the 2nd gen rotors had zero "float" laterally.
I used a dremel and carefully cut the washers out. I want to give them a try but need any solid advice from people who've actually done this mod before I mount them and do a stoppie into oblivion.
 

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I'd like to see a how-to or at least some close-up pics of how you were able to get in there with the dremel to remove the springs like that.

You know you're not going to gain any braking power with this mod right? I'm sure you do, but all that removing the springs will do is allow the rotor to seek the natural center between the inner and outer brake pistons. Since the caliper design is zero-gap, once the rotor is clamped down, there should be no movement in the rotor anymore. I'm sure it will move slightly as the caliper clamps down on it, but minimally, and shouldn't move once the lever is released since the springs are gone.

The thing that interests me more, is now that the rotors are completely free, there are a lot of forces on them that may cause them to push on pad or the other and force the pistons apart so there isn't anymore "zero gap". If this were the case, then the initial lever movement will be longer before the brakes bite down.

I'd run an experiment to see if this might happen. With everything on the bike, grab the brake lever to center the rotors and release it. Now start moving the handlebars side to side as fast as you can. If you start to hear the rotors clinking, then it's possible for the free-floating rotors to push the pads apart and would keep an eye on it while riding. You don't want to go through a series of fast twisties just to find that pads have been pushed apart and you have to grab half a lever before you start braking.

Go for a ride with it! Like I said, I'm interested in hearing your report and seeing some pics when you get back.
 

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Chickenstrip Eater
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Discussion Starter #6
I'd like to see a how-to or at least some close-up pics of how you were able to get in there with the dremel to remove the springs like that.

You know you're not going to gain any braking power with this mod right? I'm sure you do, but all that removing the springs will do is allow the rotor to seek the natural center between the inner and outer brake pistons. Since the caliper design is zero-gap, once the rotor is clamped down, there should be no movement in the rotor anymore. I'm sure it will move slightly as the caliper clamps down on it, but minimally, and shouldn't move once the lever is released since the springs are gone.

The thing that interests me more, is now that the rotors are completely free, there are a lot of forces on them that may cause them to push on pad or the other and force the pistons apart so there isn't anymore "zero gap". If this were the case, then the initial lever movement will be longer before the brakes bite down.

I'd run an experiment to see if this might happen. With everything on the bike, grab the brake lever to center the rotors and release it. Now start moving the handlebars side to side as fast as you can. If you start to hear the rotors clinking, then it's possible for the free-floating rotors to push the pads apart and would keep an eye on it while riding. You don't want to go through a series of fast twisties just to find that pads have been pushed apart and you have to grab half a lever before you start braking.

Go for a ride with it! Like I said, I'm interested in hearing your report and seeing some pics when you get back.
I'm sure there's no performance gain, wasn't expecting any honestly. Just trying to save a set of low mileage rotors for a spate set of wheels . I'm tired of mounting DOT tires for track days and switching back and forth , spare st of wheels is way easier. Pad slap is the one thing I'm weary of. I'll post the pics tonite after work.
 

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I'm sure there's no performance gain, wasn't expecting any honestly. Just trying to save a set of low mileage rotors for a spate set of wheels . I'm tired of mounting DOT tires for track days and switching back and forth , spare st of wheels is way easier. Pad slap is the one thing I'm weary of. I'll post the pics tonite after work.
Looking forward to the pics and hearing your impressions of whether or not it works OK. +1 on the spare rims being easier, and if you can save the rotors, that's even better.
 

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Chickenstrip Eater
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Discussion Starter #8
Stock


Springs removed



Sorry if the pics suck I took them and copy pasted then all from my phone. I used a small cut off wheel and cut into the washers at an angle between the button head and the rotor, patience is key. Then I used a couple screw drivers to pull the remainder of the spring out.
 

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The performance gained is in the acceleration department. The rotors have less drag/friction on the pads with the full floaters. Perfect example right here... When my rotor buttons are clean i can spin the front wheel and get a total 35 revolutions out of them. Right now they are filthy and cruded up and i can only spin the wheel and get about 6 rotations out of them. Super k you should mount them up and try this experiment with your stockers. BTW i have the brembo superbike full floating rotors with march magnesiums.
 

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Been there and done that with the rotors on my zx12. You didn't have to cut the washer out. You could have used a screwdriver or chisel to make the "springs" flat and acheived the same thing. The issue that constantly worried me was that they weren't designed to be fully floating. Aftermarket rotors are made to take the braking and movement force when they are fully floated.

Short version, it works fine. But the caveat is for how long? Didn't want to risk a brake failure slowing into a corner at high speed so I tried it on spare rotors. My advise (instead of flattening or removing the washers), take a large screwdriver and force it into the hole to turn the button from time to time along with cleaning.

http://kawasakiworld.com/zx-12r/36693-free-full-floating-rotors.html
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31289
 
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