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OMG Look at that squid!!
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Without a service manual and never digging into a Gen4 bike... can someone quickly tell me what the box is on the right side of the bike under the fairing cover? It look similar to the flapper valve setup from a CBR1000RR. I was installing my HID's and the left side ballast wasn't too bad. The Right side however, was a b**ch. Mostly because of the size of the "box". Pic for reference...
 

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OMG Look at that squid!!
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Found it... Fuel EVA system.
 

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and about the real air flapper ...
is it possibile to remove it totally ? i.e. is it necessary to retain the plug or the solenoid or not ?
thanks,
gino
 

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OMG Look at that squid!!
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I miss the days of no electronics! DOn't get me wrong, the TC and ability to program without much more than a laptop, a cable and some software is awesome. I feel like everything I touch on tis bike is going to set off some sensor.

I'm ordering the Woolich kit in the next few weeks anyway.
 

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Я - Ребен&#108
2021 ZX10R Street & 2016 ZX10R KRT Race build
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Found it... Fuel EVA system.
looks like all that shit can go lol....
I know all my buddies who turned theirs into full race bikes tossed all that shit.

I leave mines only, because I figured it do not restrict the bike and help keep down pollution.
But when I was doing my HID last week, I was looking at that space with squinted eyes...going....mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

good spot to mount shit.
I ended up putting my HID ballasts on both sides of the ram air tube.

Ill remove the central inlet ram air flapper when I get a pipe.

I think ill leave the sensor/valve plugged and just remove the door and the lever that closes it.
 

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OMG Look at that squid!!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm going to wait till I order all the woolich and pipe stuff, then pull it all out taking care to not damage anything. In case I have to put the sensor back in etc.
 

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I know all my buddies who turned theirs into full race bikes tossed all that shit.
...
Ill remove the central inlet ram air flapper when I get a pipe.

I think ill leave the sensor/valve plugged and just remove the door and the lever that closes it.
I phoned to a kawa dealer, and he said me that a pipe that terminated to the canister came from butterfly/ignition; the canister could gather the vapors of gasoline from tank and with the depression valve the ones from ignition.
He said that could be useful to retain that valve.

The other one on the left, that is very similar, is dedicated to the intake air duct.
The valve could be removed.
It seems that the flapper is moved by vacuum motor started by the valve; it is not an electrical flupper, but a pneumatic one.

Both errors, if present, do not block/halt the bike; btw it's necessary to remove any dashboard error because they could hidden important ones.
More in deep turning on the key does not necessarly show the errors, they could appear in the future.

All these are hypothesys, do you have any idea of the real scope/behaviour of these valves ?
gino
 

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... the canister ....
He said that could be useful to retain that valve.

The other one on the left, that is very similar, is dedicated to the intake air duct.
....
the one next to the canister (part 16126-0705) is a valve/solenoid, on the left for air duct (part 49116-0031) is a valve/assy; the path seems a tube into chamber (12026-0009) than the output to the valve, and then to the actuator (16172-0023).

Any hint or ideas ?
gino
 

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Is everyone removing flappers? I was curious how much it restricts it if it stays in place as it looks like a decent amount of work to remove and I'm not a mechanical wizard.. Don't wanna flash it and get exhaust to only gave it all slowed up by flapper
 

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I just removed mine. It was very easy. Just remove the snorkel from the bike (4 bolts). Then there's a series of screws on the left side that allow you to separate the 2 halves. Then just pull out the flapper. I used some rivets with silicone to seal the 2 holes where the flapper pivots. You'll want the rubber plug for the top where the vacuum actuator goes. Just order the one from the US Gen4. I think it cost me $5 from the Kaw dealership. If you don't flash your ECU or have a kit ECU, it'll throw an error code without the actuator plugged in.
 
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