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Just for completing this thread, you can also use 10k Ohms resistors. They work perfect and don't produce any big loads. Interesting because lot of people use 30 Ohms cause the coil has this load. This will produce a lot of heat and you need very big resistors.

BTW you can check Smartmoto on ebay for delete kits for EVAP and AIS including vacuum plugs and electronic deletors or block off plates, etc.
 

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what is this? do i need to reinstall

Well i decided to remove that air flapper, but leave the electrical connection pluged in because i am too lazy to solder a resistor. Don Guhl told me i would have to leave the electrical connector plugged in.

so i go to the right side to remove the fairing and there is a rectangular box, with vacuum hoses, next i tried with all my might to pull the hoses off but i ended up cutting the to remove ,

so the question is do i have to put this back, i have a guhls flash so i was told i would also need to leave the electrical connector plugged in.

next question if i can remove this thing , where do the vacuum lines go and do i plug them at the source
 

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That's looks like an evap canister for emissions, they usually just plug those up, correct me if I'm wrong guys.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk
 

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Well i decided to remove that air flapper, but leave the electrical connection pluged in because i am too lazy to solder a resistor. Don Guhl told me i would have to leave the electrical connector plugged in.

so i go to the right side to remove the fairing and there is a rectangular box, with vacuum hoses, next i tried with all my might to pull the hoses off but i ended up cutting the to remove ,

so the question is do i have to put this back, i have a guhls flash so i was told i would also need to leave the electrical connector plugged in.

next question if i can remove this thing , where do the vacuum lines go and do i plug them at the source
I thought guhl flash just disabled flapper.. are you removing it for weight savings? Or am I wrong that he just disables it?
 

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OMG Look at that squid!!
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One hose runs to the gas tank, so you need to route that line down to the ground. It's the breather line. There is a line running down already, from the canister you take out. Just attach those 2 lines together.

The other line re-injects air from the canister into the fuel rail. You need to plug that line. You can stick a screw in that line and zip tie it. You can remove it all together, but then you need to pull the air box off to get to the fuel rail and plug it there. Much easier to just plug the line.
 

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OMG Look at that squid!!
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Here is the schematic.
 

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Hi trackaddict, the breather line from the gas tank goes to the item A pictured so i route it to the side ground so to speak , then the other hose goes to (in) hose connector of 16126 electrical connector with two vacuum ports, then the (out) goes to the fuel rail (ref. throttle). thats the one i can plug or cap after removing the airbox
am i correct with my interpretation?
 

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finished removing the flapper, vacum lines, cansister and plugged all vacuum ports, however i removed the rubber tie see attachment but totally forgot where it goes anyone remember where this goes.
 

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so in general remove flap, place plug, use resistors for electrical connections, and or disable via tune, if you choose to remove canister plug the whole and reroute the gas tank breather hose and plug the line that shoots air to the fuel rail?. I want to do this as well if the benefit is worth it or a simple disable click will do.
 

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Hard to say, experts tell me except maybe for the flapper and or block off plates that it does nothing to impede p performance, that said i went ahead and removed all the crap and left the connectors pluged in to the air flapper selonoid and evap cannister
 

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was thinking removing all that plus along with the hardware I removed for the block off plates it would add up to a decent weight savings but going to hold off for a few more days, next up on my mod list is a MR12 tune and adding the Kawasaki race intake cam, then Graves Titanium Headers. lmao then retune for mr12, 93
 

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I not sure with the gen5 but with my gen4 I removed the flap!and the actuator and just plugged the air line!when you remove the actuator you will be left with around a 35mm hole in the top of the ram air tube and I cut out a piece of plastic(actually from the oem under fairing that I replaced with cf)and mounted it back with 2 M5 ti bolts and nuts!the only reason I was so particular was I had it all apart anyway fitting a cf nose cowl!I just left wiring in place
 

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So if i got all the plugs then i dont need to atach hoses with the tank breather and that stuff that i can find on youtube? (They conect with a t a hose with the tank breather i just dont know why and where that hose come from i think it was connected to the canister) Im getting ftecu to clear codes so i understand that i can just remove flapper, canister and all hoses that has something to deal with this system and plug everything, flash it and ill be ok, im i right? Thanks.
 
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