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Discussion Starter #1
https://youtu.be/w2AAqM9N3tA


Put a gear indicator from my 2nd gen onto my 1st gen and it wouldn't work correctly. Pulled the gear position sensor out and found out that it wasn't meant to work in the first place.

Found a way to make it work by replacing the sensor with a sensor from a 2nd gen. It's been working like a champ.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ECU uses gear position sensor to calculate the speed that the bike is traveling (aka rpm x gear x set number) so it can add extra fuel due to ram air compensation. If the sensor isn't working correctly, it will give the ecu wrong info............it'll add wrong amount of fuel, which can lead to poor engine performance and sometimes engine failure.
 

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Confused

I'm a little confused, the 1st gen has a gear position sensor that interfaces with the ecu, or are you talking about an position display on the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ecu uses gear position sensor to figure out what gear the bike is in on 04-16 zx10r......................except 1st gen has a sensor that doesn't work very good.
 

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Gear Position Sensor

The 04/05 sensor did not have the center ground that the later models have. On the left is an 05 on the right an 09. The ball bearing you put in the center of the 04/05 is brilliant!



I take the guts out to make an LED display. This one is a GSXR and my Kawasaki looks the same. The connector in the center gets plugged into the harness to tell the ecu it is always in 5th gear, or any gear the owner would like.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've been using a very simple gear indicator, 3 wire hook up and it works on zx10r, zx14, zx14r, zx6r, gsxr600, 750, 1000, vstrom etc.


I needed a stable gear position output for the ecu, for my boost controller, and for a closed loop quick shifter. I was just surprised that the bike is like 12 years old and there wasn't a fix for this lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My buddy brought his 04 zx10r, converting his gear position sensor to a working one with a harness and all, simple, just unbolt the sensor, unplug the harness, put a ball bearing in, put a rubber seal from his old sensor on the new one, bolt the new sensor in, plug the harness in, and it's fixed. His gear position sensor output voltage was the same as mine, all over the place, especially in 4th -6th gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
https://youtu.be/QiD84ZWJWWE


This is another reason why I updated my gear position sensor. Now I can use a closed loop kill box on my bike, unlike most quickshifters and kill boxes on the market which you have to guess and set a kill time in milliseconds, closed loop kill box uses a gear position to calculate which gear the bike is in and when the clutchless upshift is to be made, it kills the engine for the perfect amount of time whether the shift is being made at WOt or part throttle, at 13k rpm or 5k rpm, it saves the transmission and doesn't upset the suspension.
 

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....that....could be really neat. Post up on how it works out when you get to test it!
 

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Closed Loop

Could you explain a bit more about the closed loop, schematic, how does it feedback, can I build one?

David
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Open loop quickshifters/kill boxes you put the kill time that you need and hope you're close, if the kill time is too short it won't go in the gear and puts lots a wear on your trans. If the kill time is too long, the transmission unloads, bike noses over, weight transfers to the front time, and when the power is applied back to the engine, the rear tire either spins, or loads up and pops your front tire up in the air, and is hard on your clutch/trans as well.

Some kill boxes have only 1 kill time, and 1-2 shift is always longer than other gear changes, so if you finally put the right kill time for 1-2 shift, all other shifts will compromised.

Some quickshifters and kill boxes have adjustable kill time per gear which is better, but kill times change all the time due to different conditions, so that's better, but you'll have to dial to long of a time to kill the engine to have the trans shift all the time.

My closed loop kill box doesn't need for its user to guess and set kill times, it doesn't kill for time, it kills the engine till the next gear is selected, whether it takes 10ms or 100ms. It looks at what gear the bike is in and kills the engine till the next gear is selected.

Wiring is simple,
1 Power+
2 Ground-
3 To gear position sensor wire
4 to a switch
5 to injectors, power supply
 
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