Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
2004 ZX-10R
Joined
·
769 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This fixes the slow leak through the tiny vent hole on the water pump. This dripping is usually observed under the bike after several hours or even days. After disassembling a couple of times without finding anything abnormal I checked out the integrity of the spring loaded seal on the pump body and it was completely tight. My method of testing the seal was fail proof, so the leak had to be on the impeller side of the seal. And there it was. Short story, the seal broke loose from the impeller so the coolant made its slow way through under the seal. Once there it accumulates in the impeller shaft zone until there is enough coolant to start dripping out the small vent hole.

I believe that hundreds of water pumps have been replaced on the first gen, and probably on many other Kawasaki models. I am not aware that someone ever discovered the root of the leakage or has documented it. It is a simple fix and most likely you will not have to replace the pump when your bike experiences this issue. As I was there, I also replaced the large o'ring on the cap. The o'ring is not available as a spare part so had to source it at a specific shop.

So, this was just fine








The problem was here. The seal got unbonded from the impeller.







Cleaned the parts from the original RTV sealant.









Used Loctite 5699 to glue the white piece to the rubber and the whole seal to the impeller. With the sealant fresh, I assembled the impeller back on the pump so the glued part would sit perfectly square. Let it sit overnight, removed the impeller again and cut the excess RTV sealant.









Already used the bike several times and no more drips. Problem fixed, probably forever or 'til the pump has really worn out. The bike has 8K miles.







Enjoy!
 

·
Registered
Gen 1 Spark Black and HP4 Competition.
Joined
·
303 Posts
Excellent write up thanks for sharing.. the bike looks very clean too..

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
2004 ZX-10R
Joined
·
769 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Stuart! It is my pride and joy. I take great care of it.

I Hope many folks benefit from the procedure above. I suspect that the problem with the pump is usually in the same place.







 

·
Registered
Gen 1 Spark Black and HP4 Competition.
Joined
·
303 Posts
Thats a keeper for sure...

Guy up the road from me bought this totally mint example (middle bike) of course for 5k Sterling..... it was literally on EB for 30 minutes.

I seen it when it was listed up, not a mark on it and completely original, unmodified in any way. Does a steering damper count ?...

You'll have to take my word at how mint it was as this is the only pic I have of it.

Think there was less than 4 thou on the clock !..

Just noticed a barcode sticker on the clutch rod arm lol....

I'd of asked for 6k and know it would have sold at that...


Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Loved the guide and I loved the pictures of your 10 even more. She looks sweet with that titanium akro. I'm gonna have to do this job this weekend or the next. Already got the loctite 5699.

A quick question that the manual doesn't answer: it says you need to drain the coolant and the engine oil to swap a water pump but it doesn't say if you need to drain any liquids if you are just going open the cover and pull out the impeller. Can you give me some tips on how to approach this job?
 

·
Registered
2004 ZX-10R
Joined
·
769 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Loved the guide and I loved the pictures of your 10 even more. She looks sweet with that titanium akro. I'm gonna have to do this job this weekend or the next. Already got the loctite 5699.

A quick question that the manual doesn't answer: it says you need to drain the coolant and the engine oil to swap a water pump but it doesn't say if you need to drain any liquids if you are just going open the cover and pull out the impeller. Can you give me some tips on how to approach this job?
Czano, thanks for the kind words! To remove the impeller you have to remove the water pump from the engine. You obviously have to drain the coolant first but you don't have to drain the oil if you have the bike on a paddock stand.
To drain the coolant you remove the M10 bolt on the pump's cap and when the drain is over you proceed to remove the hoses and the pump from the engine.
Take care disassembling the lock holding the impeller as there are a few shims that go in a specific order. It is very easy anyway.

Let me know if you have any doubts.
 

·
Registered
2004 ZX-10R
Joined
·
769 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Remember to open the radiator cap or the coolant will not flow out.

Keep us posted!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Remember to open the radiator cap or the coolant will not flow out.

Keep us posted!
Thanks again. I actually had just drained the coolant and replaced it just a few months back, that's why I was not eager to drain it again to perform this job but oh well, i will collect it in a clean drain pan and put it back in the system once I'm done since it only has a few hundred miles.s
 

·
Registered
2004 ZX-10R
Joined
·
769 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Agree, you can perfectly collect the coolant to put it back in the system after the job. Good quality coolant is expensive.
 

·
Registered
2004 ZX-10R
Joined
·
769 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It seems that periodic coolant replacement has been neglected in the past.

Remember to follow this step described above to guarantee the correct leveling of the seal on the impeller.

Used Loctite 5699 to glue the white piece to the rubber and the whole seal to the impeller. With the sealant fresh, I assembled the impeller back on the pump so the glued part would sit perfectly square. Let it sit overnight, removed the impeller again and cut the excess RTV sealant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
That's what I did. First i tried to clean up the parts the best I could. I decided not to go too hard on the rust because I don't want to remove too much of the protective zinc layer that covers the metal because they would make things worse in the future. I used a bit of scotchbrite. The pump is in serviceable condition and I will continue using it for now but I'll start looking around for a spare one in case this one gets worse.

The problem with my bike was different than yours: i found out mine was leaking oil and not coolant. The rubber and ceramic pieces where in place when I took the pump apart but they were not firm and came apart while blowing some compressed air so I cleaned them up and applied loctite 5699.

When I reinstall the pump on the bike i will be putting loctite silicone in the back of the pump too near the small rear oring and that should stop my oil leak. The rear oring is in good shape and not brittle but it might be every so slightly out of spec since there is a leak. What do you think of my plan?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2004 ZX-10R
Joined
·
769 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Your job on the impeller looks great. The seal with the spring on the static side was firmly attached on my pump. I see that you were able to remove it on yours. Was it loose?

Regarding the seal preventing oil and leaked coolant from mixing, there is a double lip seal down the impeller shaft bore. You can spot the tracks where both seal lips work on the impeller's shaft. If these seals are damaged then there is no way of preventing oil from leaking and/or leaked coolant from mixing with oil or vice-versa depending on the degree of leaking. At the very least, oil will leak through the tiny hole in the water pump.



20201125_141915.jpg
20201125_141915.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
The spring part came out with very very little force. I decided to put it back and put some silicone at the bottom. I also put silicon near the rear small oring. What had to be a straightforward job turned out the be a nightmare. I spilled coolant everywhere. I made a mess with the silicone. I stripped a female thread on the water pump torquing the bolt the the spec 9.8nm. Now it started raining. It's not my day, but hopefully the problem will be fixed...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2004 ZX-10R
Joined
·
769 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The spring part came out with very very little force. I decided to put it back and put some silicone at the bottom. I also put silicon near the rear small oring. What had to be a straightforward job turned out the be a nightmare. I spilled coolant everywhere. I made a mess with the silicone. I stripped a female thread on the water pump torquing the bolt the the spec 9.8nm. Now it started raining. It's not my day, but hopefully the problem will be fixed...
That happens... Lol As you said, hopefully no more leaks. Those little screws, always adjust them by feel. Do not try to use a torque wrench on them as you could end up with a stripped thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
It's been a week. I took the bike out for a couple of rides and let it sit in the garage for the rest of the time. I removed the lower fairings and found no oil under the water pump.

BEFORE
448081


AFTER
448082


Moral of the story: if you are leaking oil instead of coolant from behind the water pump follow the steps written by sextaafondo and on top of that apply plenty of silicon around the rear small oring and under the spring part. The spring on my pump was loose and I pulled it out with minimal effort, cleaned it up a bit, applied silicon under and put it back in place and reassembled the pump to let it cure.

This is the oring you want to put a lot of loctite silicon around of. Smear that bitch generously without overdoing it otherwise you might get excess silicon fall in the oil pan.
448083


Thanks again to sextaafondo for your help!
 

·
Registered
2004 ZX-10R
Joined
·
769 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Glad it worked!
Remember that if you ever have to remove the pump for the engine again, you can install a new o-ring there (picture right above). This most likely will prevent you from having to use sealant.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top