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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I've had my fun in the twisties.. a lot of fun actually. But here lately theres been a lot of people in my area making some stupid numbers in their cars and bikes and really starting to call out bikes. I know the 10 is fast as is but, I'm really looking to take it to the next level. (Besides if I want to go back to the twisties since I'm only 45 mins away from deals gap, I'll pick up another 10 or a 6r.

My questions are as follows:

I've currently got a full m4gp. What is a good exhaust that will really make some good power? I've been looking in to getting the Brocks Alien Head as I've heard they make damn good power. Would it be worth it, or is there another exhaust that can compete with it price vs performance?

Would it be worth getting two more short stacks and getting rid of the two long ones? What would be the advantage of that?

I know I wont be able to afford an extended arm any time soon so I'm just going to pick up a strap. Do they REALLY make that big of a difference?

Gearing: I've been thinking about +2 on the rear. I don't really want to mess with the front sprocket. Would I see a good acceleration increase with the +2? How much harder is it going to be to keep the front wheel on the ground? Also I remember hearing about if you change the gearing up, it messes with the tune, is this true?

Nitrous: I'm about to pick up a cold fusion kit from a friend since he's a dealer. I'm also picking up a spray bar from 1300gixxer on here along with the multi-hub. I've got a PCV. I know that I will need another map for the squeeze, BUT, what is the best way to run a setup thats not got more than a 30 pill in it? I don't really want to spend a whole whole lot of money on a progressive controller and everything like that. I just want a simple functioning kit. Is there any way that I could kill the squeeze during shifts?

Kit cam. God forbid if anything gets hurt in the motor, I've been thinking about getting the intake cam. I know theres a lot of talk about getting the 1g cam for the exhaust cam. Would it benefit to go to the 1g exhaust or leave the 3g stock in? What would be a good degree to set the cams for optimal power in the mid and upper end? If I do the cam, I'm going to get the .45 HG.

Weight: Besides fiberglass/CF body panels, what else is some ways to shave off some unneeded weight? I'm currently 5'10 165lbs.

Is there any other little secrets that I can do to be fast without spending some serious cash? I want to go in the baby steps approach so if you guys could help me, I'd really appreciate it.


BY THE WAY!!!

Does anyone have a nitrous kit on their 3g? If so how do you have your kit mounted? I'm really wanting to conceal mine and hussle the fool out of some people. I looked in the truck but I just don't think there is going to be any way to put the bottle in there.
 

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i would spend the money on a arm first. with out it you arent going to run anything crazy and the spray isnt going to do alot of good if you cant put the power down

trust me i am 14 over and mine still comes up on my gen1
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've been looking in to an Adams arm. They're not terribly expensive. I don't want an insane stretch either. I'm actually pretty good at keeping the front end down SWB so I'm thinking I wont need anything over 8 for anything around here.

This will be for street use, we don't have any tracks around here besides Brainerd and its an effin shithole if you havent ever been lol.
 

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BigCat for Prez!
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Yea but u put nitrous on ot SWB and its a whole nother ball game. I have an evil arm and it was 700. mine is adjustable 8-12 so that would be ur best choice probably incase u wanted to scoot it back more
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not planning on building the motor really so I'm not going over a 30. Probably wouldn't hit it till 3rd anyways so I'm sure it would be able to keep the wheel down.
 

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If you’ve already got a full system, I wouldn’t bother buying another one. You probably would pick up a few HP w the Brocks, but at this point you would see far greater gains spending the money elsewhere.

Lowering and strapping will help a ton. I recommend the adjustable links for the rear, makes it super easy to raise the bike back up for street riding. Stretching it makes a big difference too. I didn’t go too crazy w the stretch (yet) and it is perfect. For now I’ve got a stock swingarm that was extended by Adams, and it is great for my current setup (goes up to 8 or 9 over). It is still streetable but has pretty much eliminated any major wheelies at the strip. Last year I was lowered/strapped, SWB, -1/+2, stock clutch with 172hp and all it wanted to do was wheelie in 1st and 2nd. Now it is lowered/stretched to 63”, -1/+4, modified clutch (see below) with 188hp and no signs of big wheelies. Once I get my shifter issues straightened out I’m going for 8’s on motor, then I’ll be selling this arm in favor of a 12-14 over chromoly so I can start getting after it with the spray like cook.

FYI, the multi-hub doesn’t work with the PCV. You need a PCIII to use the current multi-hub. DJ says they are working on a multi-hub for the PCV but it didn’t sound like it would be out anytime soon. And if you do spray, definitely go with the spraybar. There are a couple of controllers out there that can be had for about 200 bills. And good luck hiding a bottle on the Gen3. I tried but it just wasn't worth the effort to me. Ended up taking a brick of aluminum and making a mount for the inside of the swingarm.

Gearing changes won’t affect the tune. The only thing it throws off is the speedo.

For weight savings, you can start getting rid of things like passenger pegs, mirrors, a front rotor/caliper, etc but the weight savings will be small. Could also go with lightweight wheels ($$$) or a lightweight battery to drop a few pounds, although I tried this and it would not start my motor so I’m back to a stock battery for now. Mine is a full weight street bike at 404lb with about a gallon of gas in it. When at the track, don’t fill the tank. Easy way to “drop” 20lb or so off the bike.

For the Gen3, one thing that needs some attention is the clutch. Myself along with several others have had issues with the clutch being very grabby when trying to launch it. Some guys switch to a Gen1 clutch pack, others weld the slipper, I did both and the clutch is like butter now. Much easy slipping the clutch off the line. Brocks makes a clutch mod as well which accomplishes the same thing as welding the slipper, but I’ve never had any first-hand experience with it. I suppose it would be a good option if you didn’t want to do anything permanent like welding. And while you’re in there, weld the heads of the rivets on the clutch basket, just for security.

Could also shave your seat to get your CG lower, this will help some too. I went with a catalyst drag pan, but I wouldn’t recommend it if you plan on putting on a lot of street miles, it’s not very comfortable. But you could always throw your stock seat back on if you planned on putting on some major street miles.

And I know someone is going to say it so it might as well be me...the secret to going fast is seat time! And deep pockets helps too :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dammit, seriously the PCV doesn't work with the multi hub? Is there any way to do the same thing that the multi-hub does with the PCV? I just bought the freaking pcv.

The only reason I'm thinking about getting rid of the m4 is its REALLY effing loud and the power is just not there. I had a full Akra system and man what a difference it was. So you're saying I should also lower the rear? Why would I do that? Wouldn't the rear higher than the front while its strapped help keep it from wheeling?

Hey BG what are your mods to make 188 if youd ont' mind me asking. If you dont' want to post in the forum you can pm me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also would picking up an autotune really be worth it? Do they work as good as what they're supposed to or is getting a custom map the only way to go?
 

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No multi-hub with the PCV. I had the PCV and then picked up the multi-hub to run the nitrous off it, but soon realized it doesn't work. So I sold multi-hub and I'm going to pick up a progressive controller for the sauce.

The lower you can get the CG of the bike, the better. Thats why lowering the rear helps too.

Not sure on the autotune, I have no first hand experience with it. I've always tuned it on a dyno, and next step for me will be picking up a Wego so I can tune it myself at the track.

No grudge racing for me, so mods are as follows:
Ported head decked 0.018”, Kawi race cams (110*/104*), 0.50 HG, Yoshi full exhaust, BMC race filter, short stacks, secondary flies removed, PCV & ignition module. Made 188hp on VP U4.4 and low 180s on pump gas. Could have cracked 190 with MR12, but the bike is mainly used for bracket racing so no need to spend that kind of $$$ on fuel for me. I got a deal on the U4.4 so I tried it out of curiosity.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did the short stacks really make a difference?
 

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I can't honestly say if they did or not. I went from bone stock to exhaust, filter, intake cam, .45HG, short stacks and flies removed all at once. So I never had a back to back comparison.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Did you go stock shorts or did you actually get a set of bullet shorts?
 

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BigCat for Prez!
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The stock shorts are just fine. Instead of dropping bookoo on the pretty ones just buy a used airbox off eBay for $20 and swap em into urs
 

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I just picked up two OEM stacks and put them in the middle. It was cheap so I did it. I wouldn't drop the coin for the billet stacks.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm pretty stuck right now. I really don't know what to do about the pcv because I was really wanting to be able to run the multi hub because I need just a motor map and a squeeze map.

So you guys think that I should order some links and a strap first before I try to do any more power besides the PC? It def needs at least a base map on it because it runs like crap with this race filter and full exhaust with the secondaries out.
 

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BigCat for Prez!
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yea get used to launching before u worry about adding juice.
 

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The PCV still allows you to have 2 maps, you just need to buy a switch. I run two maps with mine (one for race gas and one for pump gas). You just need a controller for the juice.

I would agree with BigCat. Get the chassis setup and get consistent launching. Then when you hit the point where you're not going any faster, start spraying.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Bg, what switch can I use to switch the maps? How much should I lower the rear?
 

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I picked up the map switch and handlebar bracket from dynojet that you would normally use for the multihub. Cut the connector off the end and put the wires into the PCV.
 
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