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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I've been to another dyno shop after fitting the Factory Pro Stacks and BMC Race Filter in the hope that a different dyno shop would sort out my flat spot and snatchy throttle but it is not to be. I am now convinced that my Sub Throttle Sensor is faulty. I assumed there was something wrong when I did the ohms test on the sensor, it read axactly the same no matter where I put the sensor, for a variable sensor it should read different when turned from one position to another. SO, I am now looking into changing the Throttle Bodies and ditching the TRE, I've had enough and spent too much money trying to dial the problem out on the Dyno. The overall readings are good 164bhp and 83.06 Torque but the throttle on/off is still poor. He managed to mask the flat spot a little but the snatchy throttle remains.
Anyone want to buy a TRE, I'll probably take the Ignition Module off as well as I cannot see where the gains are without major engine mods.
 

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Coach, if the 164 is gen power (no i'm not calling you a liar) then you've got good ponies from it! I have full arata system, pc 3, and a bmc filter and only expect to see the same(ish)! Do you know what gains were acheived with the factory pro stacks? i'm considering them myself? like you i havn't heard any gains with the ignition mod!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have posted the dyno chart from my last time in another thread but this time was at a different dyno so make of the results as you wish. The last figure was 158bhp then I added the Factory Pro Stacks and the BMC Race Filter, this dyno shop tweaked the Ignition map slightly and this time it was 164.34bhp the torque was also better. I've attached a scan of the latest dyno sheet. I've managed to find a set of throttle bodies which I will be installing soon and removing the TRE. I have a map from my friends bike with pretty much the same mods that I will install and run a zero Ignition map and go from there.
 

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Good luck.
If it is the TPS, you should be happy with the set up. Including the TRE with a working TPS.

I am still happy with mine.
 

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fookin goods numbers thou coach was that at franks?

its more than mine:beer:curves better than mine as well
 

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Flat spot?:dontknow: That's a healthy lookin' chart there Coach! You talking about the torque dip 'tween 4.5 & 5.5?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes that was at Franks. I was happy with the results as far as power goes but he wasn't able to sort the problem of the flat spot and the snatchy throttle. The flat spot is at 2500rpm which is 2% throttle and doesn't show up on the chart and the off/on throttle was very snatchy. He softened the ignition and added fuel at closed position to try and stop the snatching but it still does it maybe not so bad. I've made my mind up the TRE is coming off. I have located a second hand set of throttle bodies which should be here at the weekend and they will be changed soon as I think the Sub Throttle Sensor on the bodies is Fucked. I checked the resistance readings for it and they are the same in all positions and for a variable resistor I think this is wrong. Hopefully this will solve the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Some people get mixed up on this topic. It's not the Throttle Position Sensor it is the Sub Throttle Sensor, it has 3 connections and it is a Variable Resistor. In my case it didn't matter where I put the sensor it read axactly the same resistance so I assume it is broke.
 

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if its a 3 wire i'm almost curtain its a potentiometer. variable resistors or reostats are 2 wire.

when u checked resistance were u putting ur leads on the outer 2 pics

or the middle pin and an outside pin?
 

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what u want for the tre?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This is the factory manual description of the sensor
The Sub Throttle Sensor is a Rotating Variable Resistor that changes output voltage according to throttle opening. The ECU senses this voltage change and determines fuel injection quantity and ignition timing according to engine rpm and throttle opening.
When I checked the resistance I was checking the outer connections.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
lavudyar said:
Flat spot?:dontknow: That's a healthy lookin' chart there Coach! You talking about the torque dip 'tween 4.5 & 5.5?

The dip in the torque was explained as the exhaust valve. I don't know how true that is but I don't doubt it either.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
fastburnzx-10 said:
what u want for the tre?
Where are you located? It may cost too much for postage for it to be worth your while. I will be putting them on e-bay. I have 2, one is Ivans, I can't remember the name of the other one right now. The bike came with the other one on and I put Ivans on thinking it was the TRE at fault but it made no difference.
 

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It is a rotating variable resistor. .77vdc closed, 4.22vdc fully open. BL-BR/BK 4-6 kohms. If the reading is out of the range, replace the throttle body. If the reading is within the range, replace the ECU. Quoted from my service manual.
 

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coach said:
This is the factory manual description of the sensor
The Sub Throttle Sensor is a Rotating Variable Resistor that changes output voltage according to throttle opening. The ECU senses this voltage change and determines fuel injection quantity and ignition timing according to engine rpm and throttle opening.
When I checked the resistance I was checking the outer connections.
coach i beleive u on what the manual says. and for all terms a potentiometer is a variable resistor

coach i'm 100% certain if u go from the middle pin to one of the outer pins you'll see the resitance change.
 

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too bad ya could'nt get that sorted Coach good horsepower numbers tho
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Dragone said:
It is a rotating variable resistor. .77vdc closed, 4.22vdc fully open. BL-BR/BK 4-6 kohms. If the reading is out of the range, replace the throttle body. If the reading is within the range, replace the ECU. Quoted from my service manual.
I got some readings from someone off the site when he moved his. He was reading the resistance between BR/BK - BL and gave 4.08k ohms in the factory position and 4.63k ohms after rotating it forward. I returned mine to the factory position and it was 5.23k ohms, when I rotated mine forward it was still 5.23k ohms. It didn't matter where I put it, it always read 5.23k ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This is a copy of the private message he sent me, as far as I can see the variable readings should show up accross any of the connections. By the way the link for the web page is in French which is why it took so long to get the information correct.

Ok for reference y have made this web page http://smartexpert.free.fr/photos/tre.htm

The valor is :

BEFOR ROTATION

BL/W-BR/BK = 1.08K ohm or 1080 ohm
BR/BK-BL = 4.08K ohm or 4080 ohm

AFTER rotation.

BL/W-BR/BK = 0.509K ohm or 509 ohm
BR/BK-BL = 4.63K ohm or 4630 ohm

The precision can vary according to the apareille of measurement.
 
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