[Loganpaul]

Hey y'all

My first post and an issue I'm really struggling to diagnose on my 2005 zx10r. While riding my fi light came on. It started to flicker and would turn off and on depending on throttle position. Eventually I drove home and the light stayed on indefinitely. I removed the key and turned the ignition off but the fi light stayed on all night. The only way to turn it off is to remove the negative battery terminal but it comes back on the moment it's reconnected. After disconnecting the negative terminal for a few hours the light will stay off until I ride for about an hour. I've tried to get the codes but the bike will not throw any. It will not enter dealer mode 1 or 2. The fi light will just stay on forever and will not blink. I've tried google and nothing works please help...

 

[SkyDork]

:welcome:

It's only an FI light if the "FI" symbol on the LCD panel is blinking with it. Otherwise, it's just an oil pressure light. So, you've got a bad pressure switch or a bad wire that's grounding out and providing power directly to the LED in the cluster. Start looking around the oil pressure switch for a bad wire and around the back of the cluster where that wire goes into the cluster. You've got a short somewhere.

 

[Loganpaul]

the fi light is not blinking it is just illuminated as you said, but the oil pressure light is not illuminated so I'm not sure I follow.

The oil pressure light isn't lit up at all just the red light that says led on it. If there is an error are both lights supposed to light up?

 

[Loganpaul]

The LED that says fi is lit up. There's no light that says led. Sorry auto correct and I don't know how to edit posts yet!

 

[SkyDork]

Ahh, this is a Gen 1. That model had separate LEDs for the oil pressure and FI system. The later models use a combined LED for those functions. My bad.

But, you still have a short somewhere that is providing power to the LED. If the light is not flashing to indicate a fault, then there is bleed through of a power source getting to that LED which is keeping it illuminated. If it normally is a ground-switched source, then it could be a grounding problem, which is likely. Where that is though will be tricky to figure out. Do you have the service manual? There are wiring diagrams in there that will help you trace back the wiring. From there it's really just probing and checking the actual wiring to see where the issue is. Corroded connector? Burned through connector? Chaffed wire? Etc, etc.

 

[SkyDork]

Is the light on full bright when it is on?

First thing I would do is check the FI system and get the light to flash like it's supposed to. This is easy to do by just unplugging one of the sensors. This will trigger a fault and flash the light like it's suppose to. Then you can check the brightness of the light, if it works, pull the code, and make sure everything is working properly. Then you can compare it to what you're seeing with the light stuck on.

 

[Loganpaul]

It appears full bright to me. I tried that yesterday it's so tricky. I unplugged the servo to try and get the fi light to trip and show a real code and still nothing. I left the battery unplugged for a few hours and now the light is off so when I get home I'll try to get the light to show a code with the servo unplugged. I thought the diagnostic wire was broken inside the bullet connector so I cut it off the get directly to the wire. But even connecting a wire directly to the orange diagnostic wire and grounding it out I can't seem to get a code. I'll probably just take it to a dealership with the fairings off to save some money on labor time and let them have a look.

 

[Loganpaul]

Just an FYI all my fuses are intact and not blown BUT the acc fuse (I assume accessory) is just sitting there. There is no contacts inside that slot for the fuse to connect to. For example if I turn the fuse box over that acc 10 amp fuse would just fall right out. The contacts inside there seem to be missing. Could that be part of the issue?

 

[Loganpaul]

I took the windshield off and the wire that was shorting seems to have moved. It flickers my fi light as the engine revs up and vibration increases and settles when I turn the bike off giving it constant power. I disconnected the servo while the light was off and got it to throw the code 34 so at least I know the dfi system is working. I just need to figure out where this short is. Any recommendation at specific plugs that are most susceptible to burning or corosion etc?

 

[bluedevil]

I took the windshield off and the wire that was shorting seems to have moved. It flickers my fi light as the engine revs up and vibration increases and settles when I turn the bike off giving it constant power. I disconnected the servo while the light was off and got it to throw the code 34 so at least I know the dfi system is working. I just need to figure out where this short is. Any recommendation at specific plugs that are most susceptible to burning or corosion etc?

I know you said if you take the bike apart it might help with dealer costs but it may not because you have a short somewhere and that can add up to big money when it comes to electrical.

What I can help you with the FI light to turn on needs Battery power and a Ground signal/contact on the FI light wire line thus needs Ground contact coming from your Negative terminal of battery.....that's why it turns off when you disconnect there is a path of electricity when key is turned off that is still allowed so since the FI light only needs to contact a frame point or other ground points the light turns on.

Disconnect the instrument cluster and also check wiring harness after that for a pinched wire. I haven't checked if power is always on the Instrument Cluster to hold time clock but if there is power all the time then it's a matter of finding where the FI light wire is being pinched against a frame ground or ground wire and thus activating the light with a shorted ground to battery negative.....start with the cluster then the harness at the head light area....just inspect wiring harness pinched somewhere most against a bolt or frame mount since it appears you don't have the tools or know how but good inspection can overcome that that usually solves a high percentage of electrical problems and I believe it will in your case. :wink:

bloo

 

[Silverslk]

I agree with blue. You'd be surprised What you can fix or at least identify with just your eyes and common sense. Look where the wiring passes by and sharp edges, bolt threads, etc. I bet you find it's also watch the insertion depths of the bolts as you pull them out. Maybe they were replaced with one too long and when it's in, it shorting one wire to another.