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Discussion Starter #1
I have a code 23 error.
have changed cam position sensors out and belled out the cable to ecu all has continuity, sensor is reading 409 ohms, within spec!
disconnected pc usb111
any idea's on this fault? Aussie model

cheers
Chris
 

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chris even if you fix the problem that was throwing the service code.
you need the clear the error code from the ecu.
you need to go to dealer mode 2 and clear the error.
which is the dealer or service wire, ground it 5 times in 2 seconds then hold it grounded.
pull the clutch lever in for more than 5 seconds.
then repeat the dealer 2 mode. of 5 times in 2 seconds and continuously to check the code is clear.
 

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I have a code 23 error.
have changed cam position sensors out and belled out the cable to ecu all has continuity, sensor is reading 409 ohms, within spec!
disconnected pc usb111
any idea's on this fault? Aussie model

cheers
Chris
Not 100% on this but I reckon thats the Camshaft position sensor FI code, still hunting more info for ya.

Found it:

23
Camshaft position sensor malfunction, wiring open or short.

As sorta said above if you can clear the code you may be all ok then
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the quick replies
this is a track bike so I guess i need to reconnect the clutch switch?
I am unsure on the dealer 2 mode but i am guessing that the same wire I ground "orange one" to get the service codes is the same wire I need to do the dealer 2 mode sequence with?
You guys really are a wealth of knowledge.

Cheers
Chris
 

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thanks for the quick replies
this is a track bike so I guess i need to reconnect the clutch switch?
I am unsure on the dealer 2 mode but i am guessing that the same wire I ground "orange one" to get the service codes is the same wire I need to do the dealer 2 mode sequence with?
You guys really are a wealth of knowledge.

Cheers
Chris
I reckon if you type "delaer code gen 1 zx10r" into google you'll find more threads on how to clear them :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I found this BELOW but cannot get it to work? being that there are no guides as to what the Letters refered to below are reffering to..

I tried grounding the diagnistics wire, turn key on, grounded the same wire five times and then re grounded, bridged the plug for the clutch for 6 seconds then romoved bridge, then grounded the diagnostic wire five times again. no change or anything? should i see anything on the dash or a reset of any type?

Is there another wire i should be grounding?





•Enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode 2 (see Self- diagnosis
Procedures in this chapter).
NOTE
○Make sure to keep the grounding until the following
opening and grounding starts.
•Pull the clutch lever in more than 5 seconds, and then
release it.
•Repeat opening and grounding [A] the lead [E] (self
-diagnosis terminal [G]) more than five times [F] within 2
seconds [C] after the lead is grounded, and then keep it
grounded continuously [D] for more than 2 seconds

3-38 FUEL SYSTEM (DFI)
Self-Diagnosis
Self-diagnosis Outline
The self-diagnosis system has three modes and can be
switched to another mode by grounding the self-diagnosis
terminal [A].
User Mode
The ECU notifies the rider of troubles in DFI system and
ignition system by lighting the FI indicator when DFI system
and ignition system parts are faulty, and initiates fail-safe
function. In case of serious troubles ECU stops the injection/
ignition/starter motor operation.
Dealer Mode 1
The FI indicator light (LED) emits service code(s) to show
the problem(s) which the DFI system and ignition system
has at the moment of diagnosis.
Dealer Mode 2
The FI indicator light (LED) emits service code(s) to show
the problem(s) which the DFI system and ignition system
has at the moment of diagnosis.
Self-diagnosis Procedures
○When a problem occurs with the DFI system and ignition
system, the DFI indicator light (LED) [A] goes on.
NOTE
○Use a fully charged battery when conducting
self-diagnosis. Otherwise, the light (LED) blinks
very slowly or doesn’t blink.
○Keep the self-diagnosis terminal grounded during self
-diagnosis, with a auxiliary lead.
•Remove the front seat (see Front Seat Removal in the
Frame chapter) and pull the self-diagnosis terminal [G]. •Turn the ignition switch ON. •Connect an auxiliary lead [E] for grounding to the self
-diagnosis terminal. •To enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode 1, ground [A] the
self-diagnosis terminal for more than 2 seconds [C], and
then keep it grounded continuously [D].
○Count the blinks of the light (LED) to read the service
code. Keep the auxiliary lead ground until you finish reading
the service code.
•To enter the self-diagnosis dealer mode 2 repeat opening
and grounding [A] the lead more than five times [F]
within 2 seconds [C] after the lead is first grounded, and
then keep it grounded continuously [D] for more than 2
seconds.
Self-diagnosis Terminal [G]
○Count the blinks of the light (LED) to read the service
code. Keep the auxiliary lead [E] ground until you finish
reading the service code.
NOTE
○If the self-diagnosis mode is in dealer mode 1 then you
need to enter the dealer mode 2, turn off the ignition
switch once.
Service Code Clearing Procedures
more than five times [F] within 2
seconds [C] after the lead is grounded, and then keep it
grounded continuously [D] for more than 2 seconds
 

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no thats it. the orange wire
and its 5 times in 2 seconds. then hold it .
think you need the key on before you ground the orange.
second time you do it is for checking the error is cleared.
this is the same proceedure for all kawasaki's.
well from the first Fuel injected models.
 

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i have the same error after winter so....i find the cam possiotion connectior spray it with contact spray and then i try to fire it up and TAK TAK TAK BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR the fi light goes off :) sorry for my bad egnlish
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've checked continuity from ECU pin 10 to sensor, minimal resistance.. checked continuity from ECU pin 50 to sensor and same resistance as the other.
Cleaned ECU earth and power supply, cleaned every plug in the main harness sprayed with contact cleaner and then compressed air, pulled each plug apart several times to clean up contacts.
Tried two can position sensors and still no joy!

I'm lost well and truly
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, tried cranking it each time.. thing is the FI light is solid when ingition is on and stays on until I crank it and then it flashes whilst cranking..
strange that an un powered sensor would pull up a solid fault?
 

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strange that an un powered sensor would pull up a solid fault?
It's "powered" by the exhaust camshaft. The sensor will generate voltage pulses as the camshaft rotates.

This may sound silly, but is the sensor pushed all the way in?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
will double check it but is bolted in, I sort of understand that it like a pulse inductive type sensor but how does it pull solid fault when in its stationary state it should not be able to fault unless the ecu looks for a resistance value or similar which it could only do if the engine was being cranked?
i am guessing here,, not telling. im am far from a motorcycle mechanic.
and appreciate your replies
 

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If I remember correctly, there are two wires coming out of the sensor, so the ECU does have the ability (at least in theory) to check the resistance before the engine is cranked. I don't know if it does it or not.

The reason I mentioned the sensor seating is that I had the same problem in my car. Sensor went bad, I replaced it with a new one, but still had the engine light and the fault code. What happened was that there was a thick rubber gasket around the sensor, which needed to be pushed into the engine opening with the sensor, but wasn't (I simply didn't apply enough force). The thickness of the rubber ring was enough extra distance for the sensor not to be able to generate enough voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Today i changed out the main harness from ecu through and secondary harness for map, cam pos and throttle body, checked the cam lobe "signal post for sensor" checked timing marks on cam's and crank wheel marks all look good..
tried resetting in dealer mode 2 but fault is still active "23"
tried both cam pos sensors again and tried cranking it both times. charged battery fully.

someone got anything!!!
 

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I say disconnect the cluster by pulling the plug on the back of it and leave it for like 5 minutes and then plug it back in.

Im also not very well versed in electronics either though, I learned all my mechanic-ing wrenching on muscle cars of the 60s and 70s :badteeth:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
when changing harness this also includes the cluster.
tried changing the throttle body tonight and still no luck!!

seems destined to go to the dealership, 150k's here i come
 
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