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Discussion Starter #1
I took my 10 to the dyno this weekend and I lost 9 horses from the last time I took it. My bike was customed tuned last Feb. and I was putting out [email protected] The weather this time was 11 degrees warmer, the humidity was higher. The tech told me that I probably sprayed too much oil on my BMC filter. He also added that I'm now using a heavier sport touring compound (Stradas);might need valve adjustment; might need new plugs. My biggest concern was the oil in the filter, so I cleaned it right away and sprayed just a little bit of oil on it. I'm not gonna do the valve until 16.000 miles. My bike has 12,300 right now. What do you guys think if you loose 9 hps on the same conditions?
:badteeth:
Current hp: 156.71 @ 77ftpds SAE 88 degrees F 20% humidity w/ DStradas 87 octane
Old hp : 165.52 @81 ftpds SAE 77 degress F 8% humidity w/ Dunlop 218s 91 octane


05' 10 with PCIIIusb, block off emissions plate, BMC filter, IXIL dual exhaust slipons, custom mapping.
 

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higher humidity and temp. the cooler it is the better it will run
 

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Octane should not be the problem, not with that set up.
 

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Not being a dick, but RWHP is just a number, was caught up myself till I realized how important control of what I have is.
 

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With the mods you have I would say that his dyno was jacked up the first time, you are not going to make 165 with the stock header. The new numbers are a little more on track.
 

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:+1: True that.
 

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Man About Town
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If you were using the butt dyno I'd ask
if you'd been eatin' too many cookies.:dontknow:
Sorry no help here.
 

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Speed Freak
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What type of dyno was it?>

if its a dynojet you might as well throw those dyno sheets in the garbage.....dynojet dynos can also have theri settings changed and read differnet numbers....
 

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its the tire. the hevier a tire the more force it takes to move it. Track tires are hevier than street tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
madkaw said:
With the mods you have I would say that his dyno was jacked up the first time, you are not going to make 165 with the stock header. The new numbers are a little more on track.
Go to google and type up Lee's performance in Aero drive San Diego. I know its hard to believe that I have a higher number than some guys with full systems. Talk to Quentin the service manager and type in the last name Dirawatun and verify it with him. This is the best dyno shop south of Los Angeles. I think the dyno dudes around your area needs some schooling on how to "custom map" a bike. Remember these are SAE numbers!
 

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conspiracy said:
Go to google and type up Lee's performance in Aero drive San Diego. I know its hard to believe that I have a higher number than some guys with full systems. Talk to Quentin the service manager and type in the last name Dirawatun and verify it with him. This is the best dyno shop south of Los Angeles. I think the dyno dudes around your area needs some schooling on how to "custom map" a bike. Remember these are SAE numbers!
SAE numbers can be very deceiving, you can make a dyno read whatever you want it too. They may be a good shop that is on the up and up with there tuning. There is not that much majic in it though, you could tune it to 12:1 or 14:1 and it is not 9 hp. The tire does make a little difference but it is not much either. All I am saying is that if there dyno is truly accurate then there is something wrong with your engine or the map has gotten changed.
 

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Running 87 octane when the bike is designed for 90 or higher? The lower octane and higher temps are never a good mix. Higher humidity makes the combustion process less efficent as well.

Also Feb to now is almost 6 months. Who know what changes were made on the dyno since then.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
JohnZX-10R said:
Running 87 octane when the bike is designed for 90 or higher? The lower octane and higher temps are never a good mix. Higher humidity makes the combustion process less efficent as well.

Also Feb to now is almost 6 months. Who know what changes were made on the dyno since then.
You're telling me that I'm losing hp because of the 87 octane. Please don't get started with this Regular vs Premium debate. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
madkaw said:
SAE numbers can be very deceiving, you can make a dyno read whatever you want it too. They may be a good shop that is on the up and up with there tuning. There is not that much majic in it though, you could tune it to 12:1 or 14:1 and it is not 9 hp. The tire does make a little difference but it is not much either. All I am saying is that if there dyno is truly accurate then there is something wrong with your engine or the map has gotten changed.
Hey bro! I'm not trying to flame you guys. I lived in N Carolina for 5 years. My question is: given the same dyno you think I would gain those hp's back if I do all the necessary maintenance (valves,plugs,) and then bring the bike back when the weather is cool, along with a lighter tire?
 

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screw all that.... get a lighter tire like a qualifier 13.8lbs and lube the axle. poof there back....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
10 speed said:
its the tire. the hevier a tire the more force it takes to move it. Track tires are hevier than street tires.
You know that the tire that I'm using is only 1 pound heavier than the Pilot Powers? That might justify between 1-2hp loss what do you think?
 

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I lost 6hp going from a d-209 to a qualifier. went back to the qualifier.
 

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Speed Freak
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Im sure a rear tire alone would show a change in the dyno #'s

ya gotta remeber a dynoejt dyno is measuring hp threw acceleration...so the slower it spins up the lower the #....more weight on the rear end anythign rotating withh show a diff # on a dynojet......

Factory pro dynos show same horse pwoer though....the software is all set t one standard for one specific rolling drum and is used with a load cell that measures torque on a arm and will always read same #'s from run to run....only time the #'s will be off is pretty much peak rpm stuff when the motor is really hot it might loose a horse or so but thats all.
 
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