Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner
1 - 20 of 111 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As everyone knows the esd on gen4 and 5 is as standard completely useless.
The usual fix is a race damper ecu at a high price that i personally cannot afford.
I thought id investigate ways to improve it.
Firstly i removed the damper and to my suprise it actually does damp a little when off the bike but.
Next i wired it up and powered the bike up and the damper motor does a complete cycle prior to startup.
If you pull the damper whilst it is doing this cycle the damper goes very stiff then back to normal.
Now this to me proves the damper is very capable but its just wound off too much as standard.
So my idea is to power up the damper to wind the motor up so its slightly stiffer then remove the power and leave it unplugged in the stiffer position.
Obviously this will throw up an error code but if it works well i could buy another sensor to plug in and leave tucked away under the tank.
Whats your thoughts on this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
I'm hoping that someday, somebody will be able to flash the OEM control unit with the race program that comes in the aftermarket Ohlins SCU.

I also saw a used Ohlins SCU for sale here once. Maybe another will come up when somebody's track bike gets parted out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ukzx10r

·
Registered
Joined
·
481 Posts
As everyone knows the esd on gen4 and 5 is as standard completely useless.
The usual fix is a race damper ecu at a high price that i personally cannot afford.
I thought id investigate ways to improve it.
Firstly i removed the damper and to my suprise it actually does damp a little when off the bike but.
Next i wired it up and powered the bike up and the damper motor does a complete cycle prior to startup.
If you pull the damper whilst it is doing this cycle the damper goes very stiff then back to normal.
Now this to me proves the damper is very capable but its just wound off too much as standard.
So my idea is to power up the damper to wind the motor up so its slightly stiffer then remove the power and leave it unplugged in the stiffer position.
Obviously this will throw up an error code but if it works well i could buy another sensor to plug in and leave tucked away under the tank.
Whats your thoughts on this?
As a owner of the aftermarket Ohlins SCU with my 2013 gen4 and i must say it makes it 100% better. I would say save your pennies and get it. I know it is a little pricey but it is worth it IMO! :grin2:

PM Mike @RidersDiscount or visit there website https://www.ridersdiscount.com he matched me the lowest price online for my SCU and they are a site sponsor so why not support them! :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
I need to start riding harder,ive never had any issues with the stock one. I thought I saw a revalved one in forsale section.you will still get the light though.if not you can probably get a stock steering dampener from a 2011or 2012 real cheap and get it revalved.just an idea .
 

·
REPOST Enforcement Mod
'16 ZX-10R KRT
Joined
·
15,735 Posts
This is dangerous. The software is calibrated to offer damping preemptively based on a lot of factors. Without knowing the actual damping rates, the ECU won't know what is happening since it's open-loop with no feedback. The ECU could very easily command a rate that would lock (or close to it) if you start screwing with this. I highly recommend you don't fuck with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is dangerous. The software is calibrated to offer damping preemptively based on a lot of factors. Without knowing the actual damping rates, the ECU won't know what is happening since it's open-loop with no feedback. The ECU could very easily command a rate that would lock (or close to it) if you start screwing with this. I highly recommend you don't fuck with it.
I meant adjust the damper up and disconnect it from the ecu so it is set at that position all the time just like a manual damper works. I know its a dangerous area to play with hence i would set it up off the bike first.
Ive just brought a house and litterally cannot afford a penny to be spent on my bike for some time to come.
Plus the mrs will kill me lol.
But ive always been bugged by the esd. Its frustrating having a good damper on your bike thats effectively turned off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
I meant adjust the damper up and disconnect it from the ecu so it is set at that position all the time just like a manual damper works. I know its a dangerous area to play with hence i would set it up off the bike first.
Ive just brought a house and litterally cannot afford a penny to be spent on my bike for some time to come.
Plus the mrs will kill me lol.
But ive always been bugged by the esd. Its frustrating having a good damper on your bike thats effectively turned off.
This is not to start an argument. I'm not sure what you mean by "effectively turned off". Have you ever had an issue where you thought the damper was not doing its job? I'm no expert on dampeners but I did recently have an experience where the front end came off the ground at high speed unexpectedly and must not have come down perfectly straight because it wiggled but it seemed to instantly straighten itself out. Isn't that the dampener doing its job? Or should it never wiggle at all? I did buy the online race scu. Only because I could afford it and it was recommended but I haven't installed it and I'm considering selling it because Im not certain that it's necessary for off track riding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is not to start an argument. I'm not sure what you mean by "effectively turned off". Have you ever had an issue where you thought the damper was not doing its job? I'm no expert on dampeners but I did recently have an experience where the front end came off the ground at high speed unexpectedly and must not have come down perfectly straight because it wiggled but it seemed to instantly straighten itself out. Isn't that the dampener doing its job? Or should it never wiggle at all? I did buy the online race scu. Only because I could afford it and it was recommended but I haven't installed it and I'm considering selling it because Im not certain that it's necessary for off track riding.
My bike shakes its head all of the time when flat out. Its so bad that i took it back to kawasaki to have it tested.
They said there was no fault codes so should be working.
Its nearly thrown me off the track a few times and ive had to lift off countless times to get the front down and steer the bike back in line.
Im going to attempt what i said above to try set damping rate higher because its a real issue on my bike.
 

·
Gen 5 Now!!
Joined
·
1,136 Posts
:+1: :+2:

definitely not worth it
This is dangerous. The software is calibrated to offer damping preemptively based on a lot of factors. Without knowing the actual damping rates, the ECU won't know what is happening since it's open-loop with no feedback. The ECU could very easily command a rate that would lock (or close to it) if you start screwing with this. I highly recommend you don't fuck with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Just ditch the electronic stuff and go old school with a manual adjustable one.This will offer some control to the rider to suit conditions. A scotts rotary or some other top quality unit should compare in price to all the electronic ecu replacement stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
148 Posts
My bike shakes its head all of the time when flat out. Its so bad that i took it back to kawasaki to have it tested.
They said there was no fault codes so should be working.
Its nearly thrown me off the track a few times and ive had to lift off countless times to get the front down and steer the bike back in line.
Im going to attempt what i said above to try set damping rate higher because its a real issue on my bike.
Fair enough. Hadn't realized you already had problems. Watched your video and I can say that mine doesn't do that unless I grip too tight and cause the tire to turn when it gets light. Well, good luck with your testing if you decide to alter the ESD you have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
776 Posts
your best bet is to try and make a resistor and use a manual one, not a good idea to just wind the thing on and disconnect it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I know the best bet is a proper manual one but your fogetting i have no money what so ever available for my bike. I cant do trackdays for a while but my bike shakes like this on the road too.
I am doing a few tweaks to get more weight over the front but i need a free damper mod until i can get my house sorted. Im an engineer so i could make something to hold the adjusting needle in place i spose if its not too complicated. Has anyone ever taken one of these appart?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Fair enough. Hadn't realized you already had problems. Watched your video and I can say that mine doesn't do that unless I grip too tight and cause the tire to turn when it gets light. Well, good luck with your testing if you decide to alter the ESD you have.
Well the thing is with tracks like brands you enter the back straight on a left hander and its then got a fast right kink then it goes straight so your tring to swap directions and then stand the bike up all while going over a crest and this really shows up a poor damper coz the front wheel is light all the time
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
easy solution, no money... park the bike. don't over engineer something with upgrades already in place, or available, that could cost you more than just money.

you can buy a used kawi ohlins oem stock damper from a zx6r, or zx10r prior to 2012, have it revalved to REAL ohlins specs by kyle racing in the usa for VERY REASONABLE. if you cant do that, don't make changes to you damper that could cost you your life, or cause you to affect another riders (or their family's) life.

not worth it. if you cant see that, we cant help you. Ski
 

·
The Pace
Joined
·
7,164 Posts
My bike shakes its head all of the time when flat out. Its so bad that i took it back to kawasaki to have it tested.
They said there was no fault codes so should be working.
Its nearly thrown me off the track a few times and ive had to lift off countless times to get the front down and steer the bike back in line.
Im going to attempt what i said above to try set damping rate higher because its a real issue on my bike.
It is whatever mods that you added. I jam on the absolutely crappiest bumping dork roads in rural areas completely empty and hit between 150-170 mph depending upon conditions (weather, sun angle, shadows, ect. as I deal with livestock and wild life) and that bike is solid with ome setting and hardware. I'm straight up reporting the truth and I do this routinely day after day. I self report as average rider.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well i have switched ignition in and unplugged the damper mid cycle and its now slightly stiffer to move.
I think your over reacting.
The damper doesnt lock. Its got an adjuster that goes from barely on to quite stiff.
Ive wound mine half way ish and its stayed there.
I just need to know what will happen if inleave it unplugged?
Will it make changes to the bkes running?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Well i have switched ignition in and unplugged the damper mid cycle and its now slightly stiffer to move.
I think your over reacting.
The damper doesnt lock. Its got an adjuster that goes from barely on to quite stiff.
Ive wound mine half way ish and its stayed there.
I just need to know what will happen if inleave it unplugged?
Will it make changes to the bkes running?
a) How many wires go to damper? If 4 or 6 wires then damper has probably stepper motor inside. Measure resistanses between wires (connector unplugged) to identify motor coils.

b) Plug back connector, start bike, let damper motor to wind needle to fixed position and measure voltages at coils wires. Now when damper motor is idle, then I guess there is still DC voltage applied to at least one coil. If it is then electronics is holding motor shaft blocked with it.

c) If a and b are true, then do your procedure of disconnecting connector mid startup cycle (stiffness to your liking), but now with damper connectior disconnected I would apply permanent voltage (voltege when bike is running) (possibly through resistor) to at least one coil. This prevents motor shaft (needle) moving with vibration.

P.S. To ECU side put resistors instead of motor coils (with same resistanse as coils) to prevent error code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
a) How many wires go to damper? If 4 or 6 wires then damper has probably stepper motor inside. Measure resistanses between wires (connector unplugged) to identify motor coils.

b) Plug back connector, start bike, let damper motor to wind needle to fixed position and measure voltages at coils wires. Now when damper motor is idle, then I guess there is still DC voltage applied to at least one coil. If it is then electronics is holding motor shaft blocked with it.

c) If a and b are true, then do your procedure of disconnecting connector mid startup cycle (stiffness to your liking), but now with damper connectior disconnected I would apply permanent voltage (voltege when bike is running) (possibly through resistor) to at least one coil. This prevents motor shaft (needle) moving with vibration.

P.S. To ECU side put resistors instead of motor coils (with same resistanse as coils) to prevent error code.
There are 4 wires to the damper.
I see what your saying but i feel trying to hold the damper in position electronically with resisters is quite risky. Id much rather try and hold it mechanically.
I need to get hold of a damaged damper and see if i can make an adapter and work that locks it in position or even make it adjustable.
 
1 - 20 of 111 Posts
Top