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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright I am having a few issues getting to know my new to me used 2015 with 13000 miles. It has a tune, after market exhaust servo delete. And I think the intake flapper was removed. The grill is there still.
The cam chain was making a terrible noise that almost killed the deal. But I managed to fix it with some before and after video. Easy fix and free. I will put up a video but the nuts and bolts part I didn't record. But if there is interest in seeing it I will post it.

Back to the ESD.
I am getting the light and I don't know where to start checking. The motor goes in and out when the ignition is turned on. I tried driving it with the motor only plugged in and refilled the damper with 15w oil. It's still turning on at 20 to 30 mph.
Where does this thing go after that? There is the ecu that is a pain to get to but checking the wires seems like the next step. The battery is a lithium battery fully charged. Bolts are tight. I guess I'm asking does the ESD connect to any other sensors like the wheel sensor or something that could be throwing a code? Can someone please walk me through how deep into the bike it goes?
Thanks. I think I know why the previous guy sold the bike. This error code and the rattling along with the chain about it give up and break maybe lead to them selling the problem to someone else. I changed the breaks to EBC all around and it needed that. Along with changing the brake fluid that was brown. And installing LED headlights is all I've down to it. I don't know if that info is related or important. Just wanted to throw it out there. There was a BMW that wouldn't start because of sensor in the ps door handle. So stranger things can happen when you start fixing vehicles that aren't broken.
 

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The ESD light is commonly known to come on for our bikes when the voltage is low or the terminals are loose. The ESD light is super, super sensitive to even slightly low voltage. Since you've already ensured that the terminals are tight, what voltage are you seeing from either the charging system and also the battery when the bike is turned off? Electrical is by far my weakest knowledge base so I can't explain how it magically works but I know that if 1 of those 2 readings is low then it will cause the ESD light to come on.
 

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@Hortond please try this page:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took the tank off today and checked the USD UCU and it has power. I couldn't figure it out. I cleaned the air filter while I was in there. I finally put it all back together and the sheet says to check the wheel sensors for iron build up and I did. It said check the crank sensor and I think the throttle position sensor which I didn't. I took it for a ride and the light came back on. It stayed on too. I killed the bike with the switch and restarted it and the light stayed off this time for the rest of the trip around the hood. I checked the voltage and it was 13.1 volts off and 14 running. Sometimes more running. I think it maybe a power low voltage thing or a bad ECU. Its not the motor in the damper itself. I am going to try it a little more to see if it clears up on a longer drive. If not, I am going to buy a new ESD ECU. They are cheap on Ebay. But its a crap shoot that they will work or be kind of broke like the one I have.
 

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Yup, an OEM ESD ECU is super, super cheap and I can't imagine why dismantlers even put them up on eBay since you're the only person I've ever seen that would need to buy one. I guess you should still check your part number to ensure you get a similar one. # 21740-01 is probably the most common part # I've seen for 4th gen one.

I have to chuckle out loud when I see a listing for one on eBay and the seller is asking a couple hundred bucks. They probably have no idea that there are a zillion of them out there with hardly any practical buyers. Just because it says "Ohlins" on it doesn't mean it's worth anything because Kawasaki has them programmed to barely do a thing.

If I was you, I would take a chance and buy the Ohlins SCU. If you're going to spent around $50 on a replacement OEM anyway, you might as well pony up $300 and get the SCU. If and when you get the warning light sorted, at least you'll be left with the usable program in the upgraded unit.

I'm still waiting for the day that someone has the gear and equipment to flash the OEM unit with SCU software. As a street rider I'd be willing to pay a Benjamin for that but I don't want to spend $300 since I'm not a racer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is a great idea. I need to be sure its the box first. Then the Race ECU should be my next, best bet. I need to find someone that has the same bike without the same problem to borrow theirs to see what it is. But $25 - $50 isn't a bad investment. That's what the dealer charges as a co pay for taking my bike into see them.
I was getting some weird readings when I hooked my power probe up to the power and ground from a separate battery. But it showed the correct readings when I used the bike battery for power. Can anyone explain that? It could be nothing. A power probe for those that don't know is great little muti meter type thing that you hooked up to the battery and can probe lines to see if has power and with a flip on a switch add power to a line if needed. Very handy in most cases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hacking the stock one seems like it could be done. Raising or lowering the resistance in the cable could make like stock but more sensitive. That is out of my wheelhouse. But once I want to learn about something I usually learn it all. There maybe a way to reprogram it?
 

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Hacking the stock one seems like it could be done. Raising or lowering the resistance in the cable could make like stock but more sensitive. That is out of my wheelhouse. But once I want to learn about something I usually learn it all. There maybe a way to reprogram it?
I'm betting it's just not worth the effort for a techie to set up a flash for the OEM ESD. I dropped a few hints in this forum over the years, including when Archer was still offering his mail in ECU flash service and if anybody could've figured it out I'm sure it would've been him. Maybe it's a liability thing (same reason Kawasaki seems to handicapped the damper), or a hardware thing but most likely there just isn't enough of a market for the service given most people just swap the ESD with a manual damper. Myself? I'd prefer for it to be all SCU controlled since I want to keep the easy steering in my grocery store parking lot while also being able to have some fun and rely on the damper without forgetting to dial a knob.

A previous member here (UKZX0R I think was his name) engineered a sweet manual adjustment kit for the ESD but he moved onto a different brand of bike and he's long gone now. Prior to the fully adjustable kit he was selling a non-adjustable upgraded valve insert that changed the flow rate inside the ESD which essentially bumped up its damping rate. I bought one from him and still have that kicking around in my parts bin. This thread has been a good reminder for me. Maybe I'll get around to installing it now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I doubt there is encryption on it. But if it's analog with a set of diodes there is no way to flash it. But one capacitor or diode going out takes out the whole unit. Only one thing to do then. Send it into a YouTuber that takes apart such things for videos. And get a new one. I am going to try a rebuilt one off eBay. My part number that I searched for yesterday was different than yours though. Maybe I had the wrong part all along? Or if the ecu has a chip that senses lean in it. The rubber housing was not fully seated around the bigger ecu. I used some Windex to get it to slide all the way home. I don't like the light on. So while I have the time I would like to fix it. I already got the bike back to it's former glory. Never seen a bike so neglected and so new at the same time.
My part number was Ohlins 10-r03143 Ohlins can 24596.
 

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I think you want to be reading the # the top right of the decal on rather than the other ones. For instance this pic I'm pulling off a current eBay auction: This listing is for a 2015.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't which one to use either? The can number could be the address on the can network line? That number up in the top could be the part number I should be looking for. The 10 r part of the bottom number seems like it's for the zx10r? Near as I can tell it's at least getting me close to what I need. I'm going to check again to see if that light stays off again tonight. Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I ordered one off ebay. $20. If this unit is the problem with the light. I might have to upgrade down the road. Can you recommend the right part number to get? For the SCU that you are talking about I mean.
Thanks for all your help so far.
 

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I ordered one off ebay. $20. If this unit is the problem with the light. I might have to upgrade down the road. Can you recommend the right part number to get? For the SCU that you are talking about I mean.
Thanks for all your help so far.
I just took a look online and I don't think it's even available anymore. I used to find it easily available for purchase when I looked around 4-5 years ago but not the case now. Even the Ohlins EU website shows the part as NLA.

Öhlins Accessoires EC 21740-03 - Öhlins Onlineshop
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I think I fixed it! It wasn't the old ESD.
The new ESD ECU did the same error. So I went through the check list again.
I checked the rear tire sensor and it works.
( If you take it out the mph won't show on the screen.)
I don't know how to check the front yet?
But I noticed the light came on when I put led headlights in it a few weeks ago.Do I took out the new bulbs and I put the old halogen 55watt bulb in and the ESD light stayed off. I tried it with the bulb unplugged and the ESD light flashed the error light all weird too. But I put old one back in and drove it around. The light stayed off. I don't know what the led draws or what? However, maybe it's pointing to the battery? I will update if it comes back. But I wanted to put a nice little bow on this thread if I fixed it. For posterity. I need to find a way to trick the plug into thinking it has a halogen if I want bright driving lights?
Thanks again.
 
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