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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm learning quite a bit. This time I'm gonna leave the head stock and just put the .5mm hg and call it a day since it's cheap, easy and I've now learnt by measuring the squish it's safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Finally got to hear back from the local kawi stealership after bringing the tranny to them to order spares. They want to change basically all the output gears and the shift drum. They quoted me 1520€ lmao. I told them why change all the gears when I only have trouble with 3rd and 4th and why replace the shift drum and asked if it's out of speck. They told me they didn't check the drum but they always replace it when fixing trannies because despite looking good it could be out by a 1/10 of a mm and cause issues lol. Drum alone is about 270€. They told me I could get away changing only 3rd and 4th and skip the drum but in that case they won't give any warranty that the tranny will work fine.

I think they are trying to milk me out for cash which is a bit odd because this dealership is the most reputable in a 200km area and they do track bike preparations (really uncommon here in Italy to find shops like this one).

I'm kind of at a loss here. It's a lot of money to put into a bike with such a low resale value.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
He said they'll change just 3rd and 4th for me if I insist but I'll lose warranty on the job which I think it's the way I'm going to go about it. I'm putting the motor back together myself anyways so if I happened to have any tranny issues I think they could easily blame it on me so I've got no use for their warranty anyways.
 

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What is your use of the bike do you competitively drag race? all I’m getting at is if it’s a daily commuter leave it that it may be a lil out of spec but how much does that really matter I got an 03 Zx6r and an 07 zx10r the 6 r has almost 40k miles now and I’ve wrung it’s neck the last 4 years I rode it on the drag strip never touched it it had the original factory bands on the front breaks whoever had it before me babied the thing ticked up hell valve train had a lil wear its what you expect from a machine that has almost 40k miles never changed the clutches noda just breaks gas chain ride I rebuilt the forks the water pump dribbled a lil after I layed her down a time or two took it apart repolished the mating surfaces taking off a few burrs stopped the leak bike ran a 6.98 on the drag strip 1/8 mile 14/42 sprockets it ran strong enough instead of tearing it down I parked it and got the salvage 10r I’ve wrung it’s neck 3years now on the drag strip it’s holding up when I clutch less shift from 2-3 if i dont get a full shift it will drop out of gear it happens have I touched the tranny nope I just keep wringing it’s neck I got it for 4K am I gonna invest 1/4 of that in refreshing the tranny nope imma rune it till it’s broke and get a used transmission offa ebay if the cams and valve train were to far out you would loose power because the more wear you get in the valve train the less the valves open and as far as squish you can measure when all rotating parts are stationary but spin all that at 12k rpms it all distorts a little the you gotta worry bout an open valve contacting the piston not so much the piston contacting the head it would hit a valve or mash a spark plug end first
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
I use my 10r for commuting, joy rides, mountain trips and twisties. If there's a nice clean straight ahead i love running through the gears shifting at 12k. That's when I was having trouble with 3rd and 4th. Since I've gone through the trouble of dropping the engine and taking it apart I'm definitely going to fix the tranny but I'm not going to drop 1.5k on it. Just the bare minimum.
 

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I know there are dishonest dealers, but most of them sell so many new bikes and parts that there really inst a need to rip people off, or sell them parts that are not needed. Most of the shops here have a 3 week lead time for service.

I fix things for a living. If I'm fixing my own stuff, I can take chances. I can use cheap seals and gaskets. I can re-use gears. It's my times and money that gets wasted if the guess is wrong.

People don't remember conversations like your gearbox conversation and the no warranty talk if you choose not to replace worn parts.
 

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Hello friends. Now that the weather is bad, I've taken my gen 1 apart to send the frame out for welding. I'm also doing an engine refresh due to the fact that the bike was making a bit of a ticking noise and I was having trouble with 3rd and 4th gear sometimes not inserting properly and going out of gear. The bike has 40k km.

TLDR: what checks to you recommend to perform and what parts do you recommend to replace while I have the engine dropped?

Budget is fairly tight, because this bike has been costing me a fortune in the year and half of ownership, so I'm not planning on doing expensive performance upgrades, but if there are some minor ones that are possible I'd be curious to know. The main goal of the refresh is maintenance and reliability.

So far I've opened the valve cover and checked the infamous gen 1 retainers. All were absolutely spotless but I'm replacing them anyways since I have gen 3s ready at hand. 7 out of 8 exhaust valve clearances are off so I'm adjusting that next. I find that odd since the valve clearance was checked by the dealer at 34k km.
Also the exhaust timing seems off by a tooth. So I'll adjust that too.
View attachment 449529
View attachment 449532

After I'm done with the top I'll remove the oil pain and inspect the transmission and i expect to find bent shift forks.

What else do you guys recommend to check while I have the motor on the bench?
I know I'll have to replace all the gaskets of the covers I open so I'd prefer to avoid splitting the case and spend close to 200€ in gaskets alone but I'm open to suggestions.
It’s absolutely great
 

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I know there are dishonest dealers, but most of them sell so many new bikes and parts that there really inst a need to rip people off, or sell them parts that are not needed. Most of the shops here have a 3 week lead time for service.

I fix things for a living. If I'm fixing my own stuff, I can take chances. I can use cheap seals and gaskets. I can re-use gears. It's my times and money that gets wasted if the guess is wrong.

People don't remember conversations like your gearbox conversation and the no warranty talk if you choose not to replace worn parts.
Some parts I may replace with used parts but others I wouldn’t consider this that being said I’d get a service manual and trouble shoot the issue and that should tell you exactly what parts should be suspect I got an service manual for a gen 2 out side it’s bitter cold later I may wall out and get it they shouldn’t be much different
 
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