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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello friends. Now that the weather is bad, I've taken my gen 1 apart to send the frame out for welding. I'm also doing an engine refresh due to the fact that the bike was making a bit of a ticking noise and I was having trouble with 3rd and 4th gear sometimes not inserting properly and going out of gear. The bike has 40k km.

TLDR: what checks to you recommend to perform and what parts do you recommend to replace while I have the engine dropped?

Budget is fairly tight, because this bike has been costing me a fortune in the year and half of ownership, so I'm not planning on doing expensive performance upgrades, but if there are some minor ones that are possible I'd be curious to know. The main goal of the refresh is maintenance and reliability.

So far I've opened the valve cover and checked the infamous gen 1 retainers. All were absolutely spotless but I'm replacing them anyways since I have gen 3s ready at hand. 7 out of 8 exhaust valve clearances are off so I'm adjusting that next. I find that odd since the valve clearance was checked by the dealer at 34k km.
Also the exhaust timing seems off by a tooth. So I'll adjust that too.
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After I'm done with the top I'll remove the oil pain and inspect the transmission and i expect to find bent shift forks.

What else do you guys recommend to check while I have the motor on the bench?
I know I'll have to replace all the gaskets of the covers I open so I'd prefer to avoid splitting the case and spend close to 200€ in gaskets alone but I'm open to suggestions.
 

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timing looks bang on, exhaust is good.
 
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make sure you clean up the oil pump suction screen real good.
 
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Correct, in on intake cam, ex on exhaust cam
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm frustrated as fuck. While replacing the gen1 valve retainers with gen3's I dropped a valve retainer collar. I wouldn't have a problem just ordering a new one, thing is there is a really good chance I've dropped it in the engine. I've spent most of this sunday ispecting the engine with a flash light, reaching around with my fingers and with a magnet on a flexible stick. I've also removed the retainers and springs that were nearby to make sure the collar hadn't got between them. I've also tried blowing some compressed airto see if I could get it out of a corner and I've looked into the KLEEN holes with the light and tried reaching in there with a magnet. The collar doesn't seem to be anywhere in the engine, but neither can it be found on the table or anywhere on the garage floor. I've looked all day for this collar, I-m going insane. I cannot put the engine back together knowing the collar might be in there. Ideally it would eventally get caught in the oil filter but due to it's size I'm worried it could do damage to the engine or block an oil passage hole.
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yup, been there done that..........keep looking.
so how are you compressing the springs and keeping the valve in place??.....i know a few ways to attempt this, but i traditionally remove the head and go the long way around
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I insert a small small magnet into a 18mm socket and then push it real hard against the retainer to compress the spring. May take a few attempts but eventually the magnet catches the collars and releases the valve. To put the new retainers in i remove the magnet from the socket and put a folder paper towel in the socket and use that to install the new retainers. It takes about 10 minutes per valve. I've learnt this technique from a video on yt made by a fellow forum member. In the video he was replacing the retainers of a gen 2. Works wonders and saves a bunch of cash on tools.
 

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simple, yet so effective. TKS!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's been a couple of weeks of intense swearing between stripping the frame to send it to be welded and splitting the crankcase of the engine. First time doing these kind of jobs and it's been and absolute PITA but I'm feeling proud of my work. I finally was able to split the crankcase after removing all the obstacle parts in the way and I got to take a first look at the transmission. Tomorrow I'll take it off the cases and take a proper look at it, but I can tell you right now I have no clue what to look for. All the parts to me seem in reasonably good shape. The problem I had with the engine is I had trouble getting into 3rd in the sense that under hard accelleration (shifting at 12k rpm) I couldn't insert 3rd sometimes and 4th would also get out of gear like 15% of the times on top of that. Shifting with the clutch that is, and no lazy shifting with a nice and low aftermarket rearset shifpeg. I might have to take them to the dealer to get looked at since I'll have to contact him anyways to order spare parts.

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the shifting forks shown are looking in good shape. The engaging dogs are the main thing of concern for 3rd and 4th gear shifting......the other shift fork may have the expected wear.....and the edges of the dogs will be rounded from wear and agressive engaging.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Jesus fucking christ, why would they hold this bearing stop bracket with 2 Philips heads screws instead of regular bolts. And on top of that why the fuck would they put 1000ftlb of torque and red loctite. I've bent my screwdriver's head and if I apply any more torque I'll also fuck up the philips screws heads.
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a well directed impact will jar it loose.....with the bit in the head for best results...........if the phillips screw gets all mess, then smack it with a hammer to drive the pushed up sided back down, then smack the phillips bit into the head to get a good fit again..........its right fun.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I banged that bugger with a bloody 2kg mallet (didn't overdo it) while tryng to unscrew it at no vail. I only made the hole bigger. I'll have to buy a philips head size 4 possibly with a 1/4" socket attacchement. The Size 3 philips head on the screwdriver wasn't cutting it. I won't be able to take out the rest of the transmission to bring it to the kawi dealer tomorrow to inspect and order the parts so I guess I'll have to postpone my order till after the holidays which is a massive bummer.
I should get my frame back from welding before the holidays thou so in the meantime I'll be working on putting that badboy together.
I'll have to buy a shitton of stuff between gaskets, orings etc. I'm calculating close to 200€ for gaskets alone. I have a tube of Loctite 5699 oil resistant RTV, do you reckon I can use it as a liquid gasket to put the crankcases back together when I'm done or there's no way around spending a fortune for TB1215 (kawasaki charges 68€ for it and I can't seem to find it from any other seller online)?
 

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Threebond 1215 is the only one you should use! It is used by most automotive manufactures including Kawa, honda, yama, suzuki, re branded as there own such as kawa TB1215. However it is often only found in grey when considering it is a quarter of the price the manufactures charge that doesn't matter. I dont what country you are in but here is a US e/bay search
 

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The screws are not Phillips. They look like Phillips, but they are really JIS. Japanese Industrial Standard.

The complete set is nice to have, but you can get by if you order a 1, 2 and 3. Like this. Amazon has decent prices for complete sets.

 

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You can buy JIS impact driver bits, but pointless really standard Philips bits work fine in conjunction with an impact driver.
 

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No, using non JIS bits on JIS screws is getting by. It's likely using American wrenches on metric fittings. On some sizes, you get lucky and the fit fairly well. Or, do you just say screw iit and grab the adjustable wrench for everything?

If it cost him 200.00 for the correct bits, then sure, it might be time to get by, but when the correct bits cost very little, or less, why not use them?

It's also nice when you have proper fitting bits and don't have to start smacking cast aluminum cases with a hammer.

The impact screwdrivers have their place. That place is usually after someone has damaged the screw with a Phillips bit.
 
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