Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 05 zx10r i have had it sine new, Its got 9k miles, I used to work on these for a living. This one has me stumped. Before i tear it completely apart maybe some has run into this same issue.

It will start sometimes but most of the time it fires up for a second and then immediately cuts off, But it will normally start after a couple tries and runs great for 5-10 mins then it will cut off, No F1 Light, nothing abnormal. The only think i noticed was odd is sometimes the fuel pump will prime then a second or so later it will run the prime cycle again and sometimes if i flip the kill switch it will not prime the pump until i turn the key off and back on.

When it cuts off the fuel pump is still running and runs for 4-5 seconds then stops like it is supposed to. It seems like a fuel pump but it checks good. It has to be electrical.

Things i have checked,

Fuel pressure and volume, Its got 43-44 psi running and it puts out 120ml of fuel in 4 seconds, Also when it was hard to start it still had rock solid fuel pressure.

Kill switch is good, I took it apart and cleaned the contacts also cleaned the connection under the nose at the plugs, It has 0 ohms resistance through the switch and the connector is good.

I took apart and cleaned the ignition switch connector its got good voltage where it is supposed to and low resistance through the plug. 6.5 volts to the gray wire.

The tip over switch is functioning properly, Also That would through a code but it is not.

Almost all other sensors are monitored by the ECM and its got no codes.

Any ideas before i pull everything one by one and spend hours tracking it down? I have never ran across one of these bikes that had similar symptoms in my 15 years of working on them.
 

·
Bloo Moderator
Joined
·
23,742 Posts
I have a 05 zx10r i have had it sine new, Its got 9k miles, I used to work on these for a living. This one has me stumped. Before i tear it completely apart maybe some has run into this same issue.

It will start sometimes but most of the time it fires up for a second and then immediately cuts off, But it will normally start after a couple tries and runs great for 5-10 mins then it will cut off, No F1 Light, nothing abnormal. The only think i noticed was odd is sometimes the fuel pump will prime then a second or so later it will run the prime cycle again and sometimes if i flip the kill switch it will not prime the pump until i turn the key off and back on.

When it cuts off the fuel pump is still running and runs for 4-5 seconds then stops like it is supposed to. It seems like a fuel pump but it checks good. It has to be electrical.

Things i have checked,

Fuel pressure and volume, Its got 43-44 psi running and it puts out 120ml of fuel in 4 seconds, Also when it was hard to start it still had rock solid fuel pressure.

Kill switch is good, I took it apart and cleaned the contacts also cleaned the connection under the nose at the plugs, It has 0 ohms resistance through the switch and the connector is good.

I took apart and cleaned the ignition switch connector its got good voltage where it is supposed to and low resistance through the plug. 6.5 volts to the gray wire.

The tip over switch is functioning properly, Also That would through a code but it is not.

Almost all other sensors are monitored by the ECM and its got no codes.

Any ideas before i pull everything one by one and spend hours tracking it down? I have never ran across one of these bikes that had similar symptoms in my 15 years of working on them.

Just reading this quick so going to Subscribe interested as well on the outcome.


First thing that comes to mind is connections.....meaning the Joint Connectors something is hot and loosing connection.......next is something like the Throttle Position Sensor.

I do think it's electrical though.....does it have a PCIII as well?....the more details the better.....Good Luck

bloo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
It does have a PC3 and that is the next thing i am going to check.
 

·
Bloo Moderator
Joined
·
23,742 Posts
It does have a PC3 and that is the next thing i am going to check.
You don't check it YOU REMOVE IT!!!! .....IT HAS CONTROL OF THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR AS WELL. :wink2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I am almost thinking the Crank position sensor, I have an oscilloscope i could monitor it, but the fuel pump randomly not priming or priming a few times in a row is trying to tell us something i just don't know what yet.
 

·
Bloo Moderator
Joined
·
23,742 Posts
I am almost thinking the Crank position sensor, I have an oscilloscope i could monitor it, but the fuel pump randomly not priming or priming a few times in a row is trying to tell us something i just don't know what yet.
yeah....that would go back to Bad Joint Connectors or a RELAY too.....Trying to buy an Oscilloscope myself but at this point don't think you need to bring it out. :wink2:

Bloo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I think you were right on bluedevil. I cut the harness apart around the blue joint connection beside the battery and when i flex the wires the fuel pump or ignition relay clicks in and out. The connections look good but if its not the connector its in that area.

Thanks man!
 

·
Bloo Moderator
Joined
·
23,742 Posts
I think you were right on bluedevil. I cut the harness apart around the blue joint connection beside the battery and when i flex the wires the fuel pump or ignition relay clicks in and out. The connections look good but if its not the connector its in that area.

Thanks man!
Good Deal guy glad to help if nothing else to point in the right direction. :eek:ccasion1:

Bloo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
It was the kill switch wire that ran through the joint connector, The 3 little red wires connect the kill switch to the relay box. The spade was loose and was intermittently loosing connection. I have not put her back together and verified it but that would make perfect sense. If it lost connection it would kill the ignition and or the fuel pump. Ill update when i get her back together.

I am thinking about just cutting the connector off and soldering all the wires together, Any reason not to? What is the reason for that connector in the first place the Kawasaki diagnostic system?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
That was it it fires right up now! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,803 Posts
You bet me to it Blue..I had the same issue and found the exact same problem area.
 

·
Bloo Moderator
Joined
·
23,742 Posts
That was it it fires right up now! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
It was the kill switch wire that ran through the joint connector, The 3 little red wires connect the kill switch to the relay box. The spade was loose and was intermittently loosing connection. I have not put her back together and verified it but that would make perfect sense. If it lost connection it would kill the ignition and or the fuel pump. Ill update when i get her back together.

I am thinking about just cutting the connector off and soldering all the wires together, Any reason not to? What is the reason for that connector in the first place the Kawasaki diagnostic system?
Solder at your own risk and you better be a good Solderer :wink2: Electrically don't see why you can't as long as they have some sort of protection via a Fuse path if not then something is going to fry first and that's the danger...with the joint connector at least that fry's off the spade connector in theory :badteeth: ...but really it's just a bad joint point for signals power or other wise.....I guess we need a Kawasaki engineer to tell us why they use those annoying failing Joint Connectors :dontknow:

bloo
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top