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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for input:

Back story - Auto CCT failed and one day the valve train got real loud. While stopped at a red light, the bike just died and wouldn't start. Got it home and the cam chain jumped, seized then shattered the exhaust cam sprocket. and the bits and pieces messed up the guides.

Now - Put on a new sprocket, bought used but in excellent condition guides that also came with a cam chain. Also got an APE CCT. With the crank at 1,4 TDC and the exhaust cam perfectly lined up, the intake cam mark at pin #28 & 29 wasn't quite perfect (couple of degrees above the head casting). It actually got a little worse when I tightened the caps down. Buttoned everything up, installed the CCT to just tight and started it. It sounds horrible, so I played with the CCT a little more and it improved, but still pretty bad. Took it for a mild ride around the block then on the highway for a test run. Power is good, no misses or backfires. It is a little harder to start now than it was. I also used the new-to-me chain as I could feel some binding on my old chain on some links. Length and number of links are identical.

Looking for input. Should I turn back the intake cam one tooth and try to better align the marks? I'm afraid that the intake vales are opening and closing a little early and either I'm hearing the pistons kissing the valves or the compression is slapping the valves closed.
 

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Camshafts are not my forte since I've only played with ones on a Volkswagen, but from what I know, you wouldn't have interference issues when you're only 1 tooth off on the sprocket. Tuners install adjustable cam timing sprockets to intentionally advance or retard cam timing and change the powerband of an engine.
 

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Oh and let me preface by saying that I've done the valve adjustment on my bike with cams removed and while it was a small challenge to align the marks on the timing gears, it was fairly clear that the marks lined up with the top of the head casing. If you think that your marks are off then they probably are.
 

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I bet your engine lasts 100 miles if you continue running it.
When cam sprocket was shattered then valves are bent (damaged beyond repair).
It is running somehow because titanuim valves bend back somewhat.
Measure valve clearences, it just proves valve damage.
Motor off, cylinder head off...hope that pistons are ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I bet your engine lasts 100 miles if you continue running it.
When cam sprocket was shattered then valves are bent (damaged beyond repair).
It is running somehow because titanuim valves bend back somewhat.
Measure valve clearences, it just proves valve damage.
Motor off, cylinder head off...hope that pistons are ok.
I hope you're wrong. I should emphasize that I was at a red light and when it shut down, it just stopped. The cam chain jammed against the case and basically seized everything, so no contact was made between the pistons and valves.

I found the problem mentioned in my initial post:
When I reinstalled everything, I started counting the chain pin that the EX mark was pointing to rather than the one just above it. So I was off by one pin. That's why the IN mark wasn't lining up with the casing. The pic below shows before I corrected. For anyone just setting out to pull their cams for a similar reason, you want the IN mark to be pointing between the #28 and #29 pin.

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Clearances are within spec and with the APE CCT adjusted she's as quiet as when it was new.
 

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Adjusting your cam sprocket is a lot less than if you were to move the chain an entire tooth.

If the sprocket shattered the cam was jammed up because your valves were slammed into your piston. Idle or 15,000rpm, doesn't make much difference. Pull the head and I bet you see the marks from piston/valve contact.
 

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I hope you're wrong. I should emphasize that I was at a red light and when it shut down, it just stopped. The cam chain jammed against the case and basically seized everything, so no contact was made between the pistons and valves.
Post a picture of shattered exhaust sprocket.
Im not any expert but if we assume that exhaust cam was off no more than one teeth at idle and cam chain against case stopped crank (!) then what are chances of valves being good??
Very hard to belive, but maybe you are lucky.
Make more tests.
Are all valve clearences really ok?
How to test valves sealing properly? Pour gasoline into ports?
 

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Well i cant understand why you would want to gamble, if its because money is a little tight just now then please wait dont ride the bike till you have at very least took the head off & inspected it. This is what will happen if any of those valves are currently damaged it'll cost a lot more later.
 

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Camshafts are not my forte since I've only played with ones on a Volkswagen, but from what I know, you wouldn't have interference issues when you're only 1 tooth off on the sprocket. Tuners install adjustable cam timing sprockets to intentionally advance or retard cam timing and change the powerband of an engine.
One tooth off on a modern sportbike could very well spell disaster. Better pull the head and get a expert to help you install the cams.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Approaching 5000kms since it was buttoned back up.
Bike is running strong and with the APE CCT, nice and quiet.
 

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could you give me your last 4 numbers of social sec number so I play them here in the lottery....

you are a lucky guy...
 
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