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Discussion Starter #1
I wanted a little more from my nitrous system, so I bought a size 40 jet (60 hp equivalent) and installed it. Got a mix of U4 and 110 fuel and put it in. Got it on the dyno. First pull scared the crap out of my friend (the dyno operator). When he hit the unit it kicked sideways, VIOLENTLY. It went off the charts lean. We fattened it up quite a bit and made another pass, after tightening the dyno straps. Same thing, it went sideways. Still lean. Fattened WAY up and did it again. Sweet! 200hp! But now its way fat. Leaned it out a little and made another run. 207hp and still way fat and still sliding sideways. If we could get it tuned properly, I'm positive it would make 220+ hp. Scary.

Ok, forget about running that on the street/track unless you are using either an extended swingarm or wheelie bars or both. Or you could use it on top speed runs. That is WAY too much for me. So we did a mild N/A tune and left it at 154 hp.
I'm going to go down to a 40 hp shot so I can use it on the track and the street for $$$ races.
And the shortened muzzy Ti can (10") hurt my ears in the dyno room.
 

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I have a 40hp shot on my GSXR1000 (36 actual on the dyno)

The HP isn't the scary thing , it's the torque.

40hp rips the front wheel up in 4th gear

40 is about as much as you can really manage on a stock wheel base.

Anything around 190 - 200 hp seems to be the limit of the wheel base.

It's great for a giggle and you can feather it in if you are trying to race or get a progressive controller.

If you want consistancy and the tune to stay right you need a regualtor or you get different amount of gas depending on the bottle temp..


Like this....
 

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Big Daddy said:
sounds pretty exciting 1liter, don't envite me for any roll-ons cuz i ain't playin. :headshake

BD
:+1: BD....don't be coming over to my track either and saying "lets race"

just messing bro, sounds like you are getting that setup working now :thumbsup:
 

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bluedevil said:
:+1: BD....don't be coming over to my track either and saying "lets race"

just messing bro, sounds like you are getting that setup working now :thumbsup:
Just bring it!!! :crackup:
Good HP numbers, now post some good ET numbers to go with it to make it even better. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
stocky said:
I have a 40hp shot on my GSXR1000 (36 actual on the dyno)

The HP isn't the scary thing , it's the torque.

40hp rips the front wheel up in 4th gear

40 is about as much as you can really manage on a stock wheel base.

Anything around 190 - 200 hp seems to be the limit of the wheel base.

It's great for a giggle and you can feather it in if you are trying to race or get a progressive controller.

If you want consistancy and the tune to stay right you need a regualtor or you get different amount of gas depending on the bottle temp..


Like this....
You're obviously a noob. I have quite an extensive nitrous setup on my bike. I've been playing with the nitrous system for a little while now and I'm finally getting it where I want it.

I would post the dyno sheet, but the pic I took is hella blurry. So until I can find somebody with a scanner you will have to take my word for it.
Bd, I will give you the hit in 2nd gear. BlueD, I will give you the go and a bike. J/P. I have to tune the bike for the next nitrous jet. Prolly won't be for a while.
 

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1killer1liter said:
I wanted a little more from my nitrous system, so I bought a size 40 jet (60 hp equivalent) and installed it. Got a mix of U4 and 110 fuel and put it in. Got it on the dyno. First pull scared the crap out of my friend (the dyno operator). When he hit the unit it kicked sideways, VIOLENTLY. It went off the charts lean. We fattened it up quite a bit and made another pass, after tightening the dyno straps. Same thing, it went sideways. Still lean. Fattened WAY up and did it again. Sweet! 200hp! But now its way fat. Leaned it out a little and made another run. 207hp and still way fat and still sliding sideways. If we could get it tuned properly, I'm positive it would make 220+ hp. Scary.

Ok, forget about running that on the street/track unless you are using either an extended swingarm or wheelie bars or both. Or you could use it on top speed runs. That is WAY too much for me. So we did a mild N/A tune and left it at 154 hp.
I'm going to go down to a 40 hp shot so I can use it on the track and the street for $$$ races.
And the shortened muzzy Ti can (10") hurt my ears in the dyno room.

two words.... Progressive controller. :lol:
What was the torque and what rpm was he kicking the juice in?

It must of been his first day if the bike was walking around like that 200 horse isn't nothing on a dyno... I seen a 550 horse pull and I though the bike was going to drive right over the top of the clamp in the front. think the torque was just a hair over 300.. :eyecrazy:
He ratchet straps the bike down so they can't spin and keep them steady and straight. I've seen guys make pulls before on lower horsepower bikes and not even strap the rear. That seemed a little squirelly to me.
Good numbers by the way....
 

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1killer1liter said:
Bd, I will give you the hit in 2nd gear. BlueD, I will give you the go and a bike. J/P. I have to tune the bike for the next nitrous jet. Prolly won't be for a while.
What about me? :dontknow: Hehehehe!!!!! :lol:
 

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1killer1liter said:
You're obviously a noob. I have quite an extensive nitrous setup on my bike. I've been playing with the nitrous system for a little while now and I'm finally getting it where I want it.

I would post the dyno sheet, but the pic I took is hella blurry. So until I can find somebody with a scanner you will have to take my word for it.
Bd, I will give you the hit in 2nd gear. BlueD, I will give you the go and a bike. J/P. I have to tune the bike for the next nitrous jet. Prolly won't be for a while.

Come on Killer.. This guy has nothing but great advice for you... :dontknow:
I've been telling you for a while how important bottle pressure is... with a regulator the guy without a bottle heater can warm up his bottle so that it never drops below optimum pressure. That gives you the consistancy he's speaking of because the bottle pressure is always the same.
 

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Yeah, get ya one of these -




The DCS-101 Nitrous Power controller is now being offered by Schnitz Racing, Inc. The new basic nitrous controller was designed for a simple and cost effective means to deliver nitrous power. A simple user interface and simplified wiring installation help to make the controller very user friendly. The starting power percentage can be adjusted from 20% to 50% in 2% increments. While the nitrous power build time is adjustable from 0.0 seconds(instant full nitrous power) to 8.0 seconds in 0.5 second increments. High amperage output drivers enable use with all popular solenoids. Overall size 4-3/8" long x 3" tall

Regular Price is $269.95....Special at $239.95

http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=1644583&showprevnext=1

Did I mention we manufacture and design these in house? (Schnitz Electronics Inc.)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Busa, I hope you're being facetious. While my friend is not completely green on operating his dyno, hes still learning. We used tie downs on the rear and a baxley style chock with a ratchet strap on the front.
Ryan, I don't know if my stator could keep up with all the stuff I have on my bike. think I'm just going to go with a smaller jet.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ruthless Racing said:
What about me? :dontknow: Hehehehe!!!!! :lol:
Dood, you're a horse jockey. I have NO chance unless I get a handicap.
 

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1killer1liter said:
Busa, I hope you're being facetious. While my friend is not completely green on operating his dyno, hes still learning. We used tie downs on the rear and a baxley style chock with a ratchet strap on the front.
Ryan, I don't know if my stator could keep up with all the stuff I have on my bike. think I'm just going to go with a smaller jet.
Only draws 2 amps...It can handle it.
 

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1killer1liter said:
Busa, I hope you're being facetious. While my friend is not completely green on operating his dyno, hes still learning. We used tie downs on the rear and a baxley style chock with a ratchet strap on the front.
Ryan, I don't know if my stator could keep up with all the stuff I have on my bike. think I'm just going to go with a smaller jet.

Simply put a properly strapped bike isn't going to move around like that..I just hope he figures that out before someone gets hurt... :eek:ccasion1
 

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Discussion Starter #15
See the difference between a 500 hp turbo busa and hitting the nitrous is the turbo doesn't just kick in like nitrous. I've seen plenty of cars on dynos do the same thing my bike did.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ryan Schnitz said:
Only draws 2 amps...It can handle it.
With an alarm, bottle heater, nitrous gauge, speedohealer, shift light? How many amps is the stator good for?
 

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1killer1liter said:
See the difference between a 500 hp turbo busa and hitting the nitrous is the turbo doesn't just kick in like nitrous. I've seen plenty of cars on dynos do the same thing my bike did.
:dontknow: ....
and your right it's not the same.. I've never seen a dry nos bike go from 300-400 horse in 1000 rpm...my bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You know what I forgot? You know everything.
 

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1killer1liter said:
You know what I forgot? You know everything.

there you go now your back on track... :lol: :rolleyes:
I don't know everything but I do know that a properly strapped bike won't "kick sideways" on the dyno no matter what kind of power it's putting down. It's kicking sideways because the tire is spinning..the tire is spinning because the bike isn't strapped tightly enough to the drum. Simple as that..It's not rocket science. :heyyou:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well hmmm. Lets think about this for a second. If its just the weight of the rider on the dyno and it kicks sideways because its not strapped tight enough, how do you suppose I strap it to the asphalt/concrete? It would do the same thing on the street/track. Suffice it to say, it's too much for a stock length bike. And that my friends is "rocket science".
 
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