Dyno graph dip.. thoughts?
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Hi...You'll probably get a better response rate if you:
A) Post a picture which doesn't require someone to tilt their head at a weird angle to view it
B) Give some info on your bike
It should be a legal obligation that all smartphone manufacturers include that picture leaflet in the phone's box, and have it positioned so it is the first thing that is seen when opened.
As for the OP.
Here is a dyno from my 2011 bike for reference
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What was done with the flash? Because you should have the flies fully open at that point which would help that line keep increasing. Seems like thats not the case maybe. Just my take though and im no expert. Doesnt look right though to me either. A list of mods would help.
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:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:Ninja 250s don't have secondaries, so I doubt that's it. And this is what dip is....
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It's a stock motor...............you should know year/make/model just by reading that lol.
Cool.. if u looked at the picture. It clearly says 14 zx10r
No cat.. i do remeber him saying he didnt do much with the secondaries for the (driveability) part.
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I can't read the picture because it's sideways. And there's no point at looking at a pic if the text doesn't spell it out clearly. Plus it's not very legible on the mobile app. :idea:
:helmet: And who did the reflash and what software did they use? The secondary butterfly valves are the primary way the ECU kills power to the motor for the topspeed restriction and the traction control intervention. So, the "guy" saying he didn't touch them for "driveability" reasons is completely suspect as to his capability.
Ok sorry about that.. it was woolich software.. the bike runs and pulls great.. but it just feels upstairs in power it suffers some.. witch i would belive is the secondarys closing a bit.. as it would stockI can't read the picture because it's sideways. And there's no point at looking at a pic if the text doesn't spell it out clearly. Plus it's not very legible on the mobile app. :idea:
:helmet: And who did the reflash and what software did they use? The secondary butterfly valves are the primary way the ECU kills power to the motor for the topspeed restriction and the traction control intervention. So, the "guy" saying he didn't touch them for "driveability" reasons is completely suspect as to his capability.
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If you guy "didnt touch" the secondary flies - that would explain it. Easy enough, they are still in effect and killing top end power. Kinda a waste of a flash if the restrictions arent removed. Now yer gonna have to flash and dyno again. Or, i would.
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...at great risk to my cervical vertebrae, I looked at that graph a little closer.
It looks fine. It's a stock cam'ed/stock timing bike that holds on to peak torque up to 12000 rpm.... and that's great. if you were to scale the RPM similar to the graph 10Arghh posted, you'll notice they have the same shape & characteristics.... the big difference is that you're trying to rev it to nearly 14 grand.... party is over at 13K unless you want to change your cam timing up to match those extra revs. Otherwise, you made huge gains in power over stock with a broad spread of smooth torque.... no problems there.
Oh, and on a personal note, it looks a touch lean as well. I usually find best mph in the 12.5-13:1 area... a good portion of that run is above 13.5:1 or even touching 14:1 in places.... I think you'll find that when it's loaded down in the top of 3rd or 4th that it will like a slightly richer afr than you have there a little better.
It looks fine. It's a stock cam'ed/stock timing bike that holds on to peak torque up to 12000 rpm.... and that's great. if you were to scale the RPM similar to the graph 10Arghh posted, you'll notice they have the same shape & characteristics.... the big difference is that you're trying to rev it to nearly 14 grand.... party is over at 13K unless you want to change your cam timing up to match those extra revs. Otherwise, you made huge gains in power over stock with a broad spread of smooth torque.... no problems there.
Oh, and on a personal note, it looks a touch lean as well. I usually find best mph in the 12.5-13:1 area... a good portion of that run is above 13.5:1 or even touching 14:1 in places.... I think you'll find that when it's loaded down in the top of 3rd or 4th that it will like a slightly richer afr than you have there a little better.
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