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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What kind of weight can you reasonably expect to drop off a gen1? I know the headers are titanium, so I'd leave those alone. But I'm thinking that replacing the can, and removing the rear pegs, rad fan, horn, bar ends, brackets, and installing a light weight battery would amount to around 20 lbs or so. Am I forgetting anything else?

Getting it down to around 410 lbs wet would be dynamite on the track! I'm wondering what the racers have done to reduce some weight of the bike, without spending big money on such items as rims.

Btw, I have no body weight to drop, for I'm a competitive runner and triathlete.
 

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All show and all go 10r
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unless you are on the pro circuit racing for the top 3 positions weight lost is pointless for the most part. I've done it myself. My 10R lost something like 45 lbs but gained 3 liters of fuel there's a difference but not really.
 

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All show and all go 10r
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ok well if you want to do this what's your budget? and don't just say low I need a number because it also depends where you are removing weight. road course or drag? or both?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok well if you want to do this what's your budget? and don't just say low I need a number because it also depends where you are removing weight. road course or drag? or both?
Road racing, of course. Is there any other way to ride a bike?

I know the usual tricks (520, LiIon battery, etc) having raced years on the track. I'd like to know if taking about 30 lbs off is going to cost much, ie, without going into the rims and carbon fibre?
 

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Does not drive into smoke
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I know the usual tricks (520, LiIon battery, etc) having raced years on the track. I'd like to know if taking about 30 lbs off is going to cost much, ie, without going into the rims and carbon fibre?
I'd imagine that having raced years on the track you would be answering such questions, not asking... :dontknow:
 

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All show and all go 10r
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contrary to belief the stock ti header is actually quite heavy. If you had a akra SS header it would be lighter not by a lot like a 3rd gen but still better. You'd get better flow as well. If you have the rubber engine blanket you can toss that. If you have the smog crap in there still that's sort of a lb. 30lbs is a lot to remove without spending a good chuck of change. Obivously remove everything you feel isn't needed, make sure it isn't if you aren't sure.

For swapped components

-Full system just great bang for your buck. Weight/power/sound
-Light weight battery
-A good wind screen, they are a little bit lighter but will actually help improve speeds as it's easier to tuck.
-Put gas tank foam blocks in the tank. Will help quite a bit with the fuel slap something like $35 totally worth it.

I don't know how the 1st gen built for the most part so I can't mention a lot of other components I removed off my 3rd gen. I'm sure someone else will chime in.

get a set a track fairings and make a easy way to swap street for race fairings. That would be 20-30lbs right there.
 

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Squid wannabe
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You can get a light weight subrframe, shouldnt cost much.

Redo the whole wiring, remove all the unnecessary connectors.

Most of the things have been said above.

I would not remove the engine rubber blanket though, ive seen bikes get heat socked without it and loose quite a bit of power.
 

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Does not drive into smoke
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Talk to people who have raced the gen 1 and see if that's really what you want. Somebody told me that the gen 1 frame isn't quite as stiff as it could be.
 

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Squid wannabe
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I drag my gen 1 and got it down to 363lbs with a full tank and have the stock wheels on it so it can be done
Holy crap that is light!
 

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well, mag wheels drops 25 pounds...anyway, here's the skinny on the gen1. yes, it can go fast. however, it takes a lot of rider skill. it is easier to go just as fast and be safer, on most other bikes :/ at its limits the chassis chatters pretty good, the short wheelbase loves to wheelie a lot, you need a full akrapovic ss system as its much lighter than stock, there is a lot of excess little stuff, lightweight shorai battery, get a hellsrazor servomotor eliminator, block off plates ummm, the rear shock linkage needs to be fiddled with, there's a racer up here named Mike MacConaghy who is literally faster than light and set a few track records on a gsxr1000 and on his 10r was only two seconds, maybe three seconds, behind his own track record but he redesigned the rear shock something or other to get it to turn better, i think he even made and sold some on here (he's also a freaky genius and cool as a cucumber)

anyway, its a hassle, picking up a k7 gsxr 1k is one of the best out of the box liter bikes you could ride/race, overall one of the best performing liter bikes until about 2010 s1krr came about and the new zx10r

and just take everything off that isn't necessary for the bike to run and weigh it, i'm sure it's around 30 pounds but honestly, it's not going to matter unless you're going to be breaking some track records, the bikes has bonkers power and with proper brake set up its how big your balls are trail braking not the 28.75 pounds you removed from the bike :/ take a big shit and call it good
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
well, mag wheels drops 25 pounds...anyway, here's the skinny on the gen1. yes, it can go fast. however, it takes a lot of rider skill. it is easier to go just as fast and be safer, on most other bikes :/ at its limits the chassis chatters pretty good, the short wheelbase loves to wheelie a lot, you need a full akrapovic ss system as its much lighter than stock, there is a lot of excess little stuff, lightweight shorai battery, get a hellsrazor servomotor eliminator, block off plates ummm, the rear shock linkage needs to be fiddled with, there's a racer up here named Mike MacConaghy who is literally faster than light and set a few track records on a gsxr1000 and on his 10r was only two seconds, maybe three seconds, behind his own track record but he redesigned the rear shock something or other to get it to turn better, i think he even made and sold some on here (he's also a freaky genius and cool as a cucumber)

anyway, its a hassle, picking up a k7 gsxr 1k is one of the best out of the box liter bikes you could ride/race, overall one of the best performing liter bikes until about 2010 s1krr came about and the new zx10r
Thanks. That is the kind of straightforward and honest information and experience I and others want to hear. I just have a chance at picking up a gen1 for cheap, but there is a price to pay for everything. It's a tough decision.

I hear you about the gsxr's, for they are really good on the track pretty much out of the crate (i.e., no handling gremlins), particularly the 05-08 years.

Btw, not sure if there are 25 lbs to be dropped in aftermarket wheels (if you are being hyperbolic, excuse my dimness this morning). My guess would be about 1-2 lbs up front and 3-4 lbs in the rear, and to me, not worth the money spent.

Cheers big ears
 

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Thanks. That is the kind of straightforward and honest information and experience I and others want to hear. I just have a chance at picking up a gen1 for cheap, but there is a price to pay for everything. It's a tough decision.

I hear you about the gsxr's, for they are really good on the track pretty much out of the crate (i.e., no handling gremlins), particularly the 05-08 years.

Btw, not sure if there are 25 lbs to be dropped in aftermarket wheels (if you are being hyperbolic, excuse my dimness this morning). My guess would be about 1-2 lbs up front and 3-4 lbs in the rear, and to me, not worth the money spent.

Cheers big ears
well, to enlighten you a little more, read this about the wheel issue, it actually is one of the biggest improvements you can do for the bike. they are about 20 pounds lighter than stock wheels, but theres even more advantage to them, read below

http://www.hardracing.com/rims/WheelWeightInfo.htm

Lighter wheels will make a major difference in the handling of your bike. They will also greatly improve the acceleration and deceleration “braking” of your bike for the following reasons.

Static Weight: Each ounce of reduction of the wheels weight is equivalent to 4 ounces on the sprung part of the bike. Magnesium wheels will normally weigh at least 10 pounds less than your stock aluminum wheels.

Dynamic Weight: This is the weight reduction on the rim of the wheel and this is where the action is. EACH OUNCE OF WEIGHT REDUCTION ON THE RIM IS EQUAL TO ABOUT 24 POUNDS OF WEIGHT AT 100 MPH!
and also, you can get forged aluminum wheels which split the difference in weight between the mag and stockers
 

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Squid wannabe
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I didnt read the article yet but....

The decrease of weight on rotating parts it is more beneficial than on static parts.
So wheels are a great place to save weight, the thing is, if the weight is saved on the hub, it is not near as effective as if the weight is save on the edge of the rim.
Most aftermarket wheels save a lot of weight near the hub.

That being said it is still beneficial, and gets more and more beneficial as the speed goes up.
Another advantage is that it saves weight on a unsprung part, which will also halep with the suspension.
 

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U can look at my mods for a plan. 408#s with a full tank of gas. Thats with all lights in place, and no race fairings. Only different fairing peice is carbon front fender. Drop the mirrors, get a full exhaust becausse believe me the stock one is heavy next to a race header. Battery dropped me almost 6#s compared to stock.
I do alot of top speed racing, and drag racing where weight really does matter. Its all about power/weight ratio. Some guys like to be stuck up and give you the "become a better rider, and dont worry about power or weight" speech, but I say do both.
Weight matters alot when youre tossing the bike around corners for sure, even more so than power for corner speed.
 

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I do alot of top speed racing, and drag racing where weight really does matter. Its all about power/weight ratio. Some guys like to be stuck up and give you the "become a better rider, and dont worry about power or weight" speech, but I say do both.
the only rebuttal to this that i have is 90% of riders, including myself, have so much to learn, that a lotta guys think they have to buy x, y and z to the bike to be fast when really it doesn't matter for awhile as there is plenty of room to grow for the rider first, stock bikes are insanely fast and are plenty of bike for almost anyone, so really instead of dropping a few grand in parts, spend it on tires and suspension and track time. as someone said before, once you're at a high level of riding, then this stuff becomes super important, but until then, yes, its helpful and beneficial, but not the most important thing which in my opinion, are tires, suspension, a tune, and #1, seat time.
 
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