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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #1

I was hoping for a better ET ... BUT ...

Although I'm used to launching my roadrace FZR400, I've never done it in earnest on the big bike ... And I'm not used to the christmas tree, I didn't figure out the bit about leaving on the last yellow instead of the green until talking to others afterward, that would take some getting used to.

I can't believe I couldn't figure out how to adjust the RPM that the shift light comes on. Time to dig out the owner's book. The stock tach is useless (as all gen 1 owners know).

It was a hot day, which probably didn't help (approx 30 C and high humidity)

On the other hand, the +2 rear sprocket and 4 links longer chain to push the axle far back was a good thing to do. I have the front preload dialed back in the interest of getting proper sag ... I think this helped, too. I had some wheelies but they were not hard to control, easier than I thought it was going to be.

And, aside from the gearing and a steering damper, my bike is bog standard in terms of performance. Stock exhaust, stock catalytic converter ... The people watching said my bike was practically silent going down the track compared to everything else :lol:

How do the clutches stand up on these? I admit to taking it a bit easy on the launches in the interest of still having a bike that still works at the end of the day.

I wanna do this again! It's a different feeling from roadracing, but ... burnouts that nobody yells at you about, hard launches, violent acceleration, what's not to like? (and is it wrong to be wanting still more power :mrgreen: )

Somehow, everything fun about motorcycles (to me) involves wrecking tires in some way shape or form, but at least this way I can take a pre-wrecked tire from a roadrace bike and finish it off at the drag strip LOL

comments and constructive criticism welcome ...
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #2
by the way, I could do reasonably consistent 11.2's without any trouble, did a couple of 11.1's, but 10's remained elusive. Should also mention that the bike has about 60,000 km on it.
 

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Licensed Dist of HaterAde
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Better than i could do bud,,,looks damn good to me for the first time!!!! I was trying to see what rpm you were leaving at cause there's a few guys on here leaving at 10 grand!!!!! i've been to a strip here in Baytown but never taken the bike down for a run!!!
 

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You def need to shift at higher rpm's and maybe work on your launching a little bit but other than that good runs. Aslo FYI it's bad track ettiquette to fully stage before your opponet has broken the first beam.
 

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Slow Poke
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yeah to adjust your shift light. turn your key on and hold both the buttons on the left of your gage. that will pull up where your shift light is set. nice video! drag racing is definitely addicting! i love to raod race but can't afford it so i turned to drag racing. i think if you shift later, closer to redline get wide open asap and take the tank cam off so you can tuck better you'll get into the 10's easy
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tips. Didn't know about the track etiquette thing ... this is something that there is no possible way for a noob to know beforehand.

I figured out the shift light adjustment, that's done now. The tank camera wasn't really all that big an obstruction. Couldn't have done that video without it, though, and having watched it a few times myself, I think I can leave on the last yellow on the next try instead of waiting for the green.

I'll probably give it another go in another couple of weeks, and failing that, I'll bring the bike to the next roadrace round at that track, same as I did this time.
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Micron, I watched your video, too. Fast time for a 600 there! But, you left on the last yellow like others have been telling me, and redlighted. This looks like a tricky bit to get right!

edit: I counted your shifts. 6th gear by the end of the quarter mile? Short gearing!!
 

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Micron, I watched your video, too. Fast time for a 600 there! But, you left on the last yellow like others have been telling me, and redlighted. This looks like a tricky bit to get right!

edit: I counted your shifts. 6th gear by the end of the quarter mile? Short gearing!!
it takes alot of practice to get to where you can cut consistently good lights. I leave when i see the last yellow and consistently cut .030 lights
 

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Micron, I watched your video, too. Fast time for a 600 there! But, you left on the last yellow like others have been telling me, and redlighted. This looks like a tricky bit to get right!

edit: I counted your shifts. 6th gear by the end of the quarter mile? Short gearing!!
Haha Thanks! I don't compete except for the annual bike bash or night of fire event mostly just test and tune. My lights for the most part are pretty good but, I really don't pay much attention to the lights for test n tune's just try to improve on my times. Leaving on the last yellow is what I shoot for as well and usually works out well.

I am geared -1, +4 so that I am just shy of redline in 6th gear going through the traps.
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #12
How does your clutch stand up to this sort of thing?
 

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How does your clutch stand up to this sort of thing?
Had over a 100 passes on the same clutch for this run. I just inspect the clutch every month or so to make sure it is in spec and there is not excessive blueing of the steels.

Here is something that I posted on this forum a while back about how I care for clutches:

My buddy at the track gave me the best advice for cleaning the surface blueing and varnish off the steels. Get some muriatic acid from a pool supply store and a soft brush. Make sure that you have good ventilation, rubber gloves, prefereably safety glasses as well and two large plastic or glass bowls. One will have just enough muriatic acid to cover a steel plate and another will be filled with water and baking soda (to neutralize the acid). Do the plates one at a time. Gently brush off the residue while the plate is in th acid and watch the plates look new again. At most maybe 10-15 seconds per plate is all you need. After you clean each one, IMMEDIATELY put in the water/baking soda bowl to neutralize the acid. Repeat for the rest of the steels.

Once all steels done check to see if any are warped, if not perfect! Otherwise time to order some new ones.

Be careful as this is acid and will attack metal and you so be warned!

This sure beats the ole scotch brite routine. It is so easy that it seems like magic to watch the plates get so clean

Fibers-

Lightly wet sand each one with 400 grit sandpaper in a figure 8 pattern just enough so that glaze is off.

Measure fibers to see if the are in spec, if good sweet! Otherwise time to replace them.

My clutch has over 100 passes on it and just started slipping a bit. I pulled it apart last week, did the above steps and it is like a brand new clutch again.
 

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Bloo Moderator
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That's Awesome GoFaster you gave it a go......you will be hooked now. :thumbsup:

You will learn to leave on the last yellow with practice. The other thing that was just glaring is low RPM shifting...even with the shift light the cluster is junk. If you want to learn how to do a 2nd Gen cluster to a First let me know, with that cluster you SEE the needle and can switch gears at redline(accurate).

With the first Gen Cluster even the Redline is inaccurate, the TRUE REV limiter goes another 500rpms or so beyond that.....so you see you need to be way up on the RPMs but the shift light may help but I like watching the needle for a stock bike(better than a shift light I installed and removed years ago).:wink: ....other than that you looked comfortable and having fun. :eek:ccasion1
 

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Better than i could do bud,,,looks damn good to me for the first time!!!! I was trying to see what rpm you were leaving at cause there's a few guys on here leaving at 10 grand!!!!! i've been to a strip here in Baytown but never taken the bike down for a run!!!
I leave at about 10.5 and it pulls really good 60ft,my gearing is just 4 up on the rear,still running the 17 up front. I try to spray it as soon as I release the clutch out of my hand,Its a wild ride for sure.
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Yeah, that cluster is not user friendly, as we all know. The early runs were in daylight and I couldn't see the tach, and with the shift light set wrong (and me forgetting how to set it!) that wasn't useful either. Plus, this whole deal was mostly to feel things out and I didn't want to break anything. Shift light is set at a more useful number now, and I now know how to change it! A better tach is not going to happen by my next opportunity to get out there, so I'll work with what I've got for now.

For strapping the front end down, are you just running a tie-down strap parallel to the fork on each side, tied from the hole in the bottom of the fork to the top triple clamp? What are you doing with the loose end? I sure wouldn't want anything to go haywire with that.

It's great to hear that the clutches have a hope of standing up. Awesome tip from Micron on how to renew them, too. Next time I'll beat on it a little harder!

Gearing ... I've heard it said that you want to be near peak power RPM in 5th gear by the 1/4 mile. <short delay to read the shop manual and do some math> With a 190/50-17 tire, 150 mph (yeah, call me an optimist) at 11,700 rpm (actual peak power RPM - not the falsely high number on the tach) would need something like a 5.68:1 overall drive ratio. Primary reduction is 87/54 and 5th gear is 29/21 leaving 2.553 for final drive. That's between 43/17 and 44/17. What I have now is 41/17 and stock was 39/17. That's do-able by next round and should help, and it's not too crazy for a street bike.

I know what you're saying, fricken engineers, always putting numbers to everything ...
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Yeah, that cluster is not user friendly, as we all know. The early runs were in daylight and I couldn't see the tach, and with the shift light set wrong (and me forgetting how to set it!) that wasn't useful either. Plus, this whole deal was mostly to feel things out and I didn't want to break anything. Shift light is set at a more useful number now, and I now know how to change it! A better tach is not going to happen by my next opportunity to get out there, so I'll work with what I've got for now.

For strapping the front end down, are you just running a tie-down strap parallel to the fork on each side, tied from the hole in the bottom of the fork to the top triple clamp? What are you doing with the loose end? I sure wouldn't want anything to go haywire with that.

It's great to hear that the clutches have a hope of standing up. Awesome tip from Micron on how to renew them, too. Next time I'll beat on it a little harder!

Gearing ... I've heard it said that you want to be near peak power RPM in 5th gear by the 1/4 mile. <short delay to read the shop manual and do some math> With a 190/50-17 tire, 150 mph (yeah, call me an optimist) at 11,700 rpm (actual peak power RPM - not the falsely high number on the tach) would need something like a 5.68:1 overall drive ratio. Primary reduction is 87/54 and 5th gear is 29/21 leaving 2.553 for final drive. That's between 43/17 and 44/17. What I have now is 41/17 and stock was 39/17. That's do-able by next round and should help, and it's not too crazy for a street bike.

I know what you're saying, fricken engineers, always putting numbers to everything ...

LoL...as you know most Engineers don't Know Practical Application :heyyou::lol:

Stop worrying about the gear...I run my gear at 16/40 and have been has high as 148mph but that's hitting the REV limiter in 4th gear. :wink:

yes the Clutch will hold up and no worries there as well for a long time just starting out.

I got a link for you about the strap as well:

http://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11534

read the whole thing me and 1killer disagreed with the OP about how to run it but you will get the idea.:eek:ccasion1

bloo
 

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One more thing that might help.After you set the first stage light,then set the rpm you want to leave at.then set your second stage light.I see a lot guys blipping the throttle after they have set the 2nd stage light.At the track I go to we usually run a pro tree so you better be ready when you set that 2nd light.
 

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Bloo Moderator
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One more thing that might help.After you set the first stage light,then set the rpm you want to leave at.then set your second stage light.I see a lot guys blipping the throttle after they have set the 2nd stage light.At the track I go to we usually run a pro tree so you better be ready when you set that 2nd light.
That's a good point....I have notice my reaction times have been going down lately even though I use to have almost perfect times....I may be adjusting RPM on the second stage not on the 1st stage and ready(but I have had clutch adjustment problems lately where I had no choice..pulling)...PRO TREE here too it does come fast. :eek:ccasion1
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #20
Well, I gave it another go - got back home not too long ago. Best time was better but the 10-second pass remains elusive ... 11.08 at 132 mph. But this time, consistency was a problem. Trying to launch harder resulted in various things happening ... wheelie, missed shift, slight wobble in one case (despite steering damper) and that blew the consistency completely away.

Funny thing was that there was another 2004 ZX10R there, in almost the same condition as mine. Stock wheelbase, stock suspension, stock exhaust. I haven't done a thing to mine since last round. We ran each other, of course. I took all but the one pass where I missed a shift and wheelied when I found the gear but they were ALL really close. I'd say the bikes are dead even. It did not help that there was a headwind this time.

I asked if the other gent was on this forum ... says he lurks here. Come on, sign up and de-lurk!
 
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