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Discussion Starter #1
Im headed to the strip next week and was looking to get some imput on gearing. Last year i ran low 10s with my bike being completely stock the whole way around. Im looking to go 9s this year. My bike will be lowered, but still swb. My question is what kinda gearing should i go with. i was thinking about just going down a tooth up front, but didnt know if that would be enough. I dont want it to be too wicked or anything, but would really like to see 9s lol. Oh yeah btw im only 140 lbs suited up if that has any influence on gearing. Thanks in advance!
 

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I managed 9.82 swb with only -1 up front. I think it could have used a little more, but I would start there and see how you do.

Oh and Im about 145 suited if that helps and get a strap.
 

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I was -1 +2 last weekend running high 9's (I'm 230 suited) until I stripped the teeth off of my aluminum sprocket. With that setup I could run through the traps in the top of 4th. I'll be -1 + 4 this weekend (or until I get a new 41 tooth sprocket) and will probably have to shift to 5th.

If you can do it, I'd go the -1 +2 route - it's not too crazy and as light as you are, it should be perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was -1 +2 last weekend running high 9's (I'm 230 suited) until I stripped the teeth off of my aluminum sprocket. With that setup I could run through the traps in the top of 4th. I'll be -1 + 4 this weekend (or until I get a new 41 tooth sprocket) and will probably have to shift to 5th.

If you can do it, I'd go the -1 +2 route - it's not too crazy and as light as you are, it should be perfect.
so if i go -1 +2 would i be able to use the oem chain? id rather not have to buy a longer one.
 

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Correct. I'm now running -1 +4 with OEM chain without issues.
sorry but no way your runnin -1 +4 with the stock chain man. when i was runnin the stock chain i couldnt even get a +2 on the back with -1 up front.
 

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Start with -1... move up in steps. If you like that and feel you still need more gear then add to the back.

Also, unless your chain is pushed pretty far to the back of the adjuster... I just don't see +4 working out for you on stock chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
sorry but no way your runnin -1 +4 with the stock chain man. when i was runnin the stock chain i couldnt even get a +2 on the back with -1 up front.
Whats your setup zx racer?

Start with -1... move up in steps. If you like that and feel you still need more gear then add to the back.

Also, unless your chain is pushed pretty far to the back of the adjuster... I just don't see +4 working out for you on stock chain.
Yeah im going to try out -1 up front see how it feels. I was just trying to get a handle of how far i could go. I know -1 up front will be fine with my chain, but wasnt sure if i could go up a tooth or two on the back without changing chains.
 

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I was able to run -1/+2 using stock chain but I had the rear wheel SHOVED all the way forward. It was impossible to WOT 1st gear let alone launch hard. It wanted to flip badly and I weigh 200+ suited in leathers.
This was on a gen2 and I believe they have more chain length adjustment than other gens looking at the swingarm differences. -1/+2 may be tough on stock wheel base unless you are definately lowered and strapped. You'd be pointing at sky otherwise.
 

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hey racejunkie im -1 +2 with the adjusters all the back in the arm. i went with a 112 link chain so i can use all the wb i could with the stock arm. you can do -1+1 with the stock chain but thats it. +2 will have the chain WAY to tight and very hard to fit.
 

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sorry but no way your runnin -1 +4 with the stock chain man. when i was runnin the stock chain i couldnt even get a +2 on the back with -1 up front.
I've got a 110 EK 525 chain on the back (stock length) and am running -1 +4... I just counted the links last night as I'm installing swingarm extensions this week with a different chain and needed to know what size to get. So, it was possible for me - not sure why you couldn't get -1 +2 set up since tons of others have done this just fine. Edit: Saw your posts about having to add 2 links - only thing I can assume is that my chain is stretched (yikes). Oh well, I bought a larger chain for the new extensions anyways.

Also, unless your chain is pushed pretty far to the back of the adjuster... I just don't see +4 working out for you on stock chain.
Going up a size in the rear shortens the wheel base... so it would put you to the front of the adjuster (which it did).


-1/+2 may be tough on stock wheel base unless you are definately lowered and strapped. You'd be pointing at sky otherwise.
I had the same experience when stock height, but strapped and lowering helped a ton. Also, the OP mentioned he was lowered (and I guess I assumed strapped as well), so hopefully it'll be a good combo for him.
 

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I've got a 110 EK 525 chain on the back (stock length) and am running -1 +4... I just counted the links last night as I'm installing swingarm extensions this week with a different chain and needed to know what size to get. So, it was possible for me - not sure why you couldn't get -1 +2 set up since tons of others have done this just fine. Edit: Saw your posts about having to add 2 links - only thing I can assume is that my chain is stretched (yikes). Oh well, I bought a larger chain for the new extensions anyways.


yep 110 links was wat i had with the stock chain but i still dont see how you got that to fit unless like you mention your chain was stretch to sh*t... but i didnt add two links to the stock chain, i just installed a EK ZZZ chain when i went -1 +2.
 

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I ran my best pass of 9.67 SWB with only -1 up front when i was 175-180 suited. I had a longer chain so the axle was further back in the arm. If you're only 140 -1 up front would be plenty and dont forget a strap up front. :thumbsup:
 

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Ok, I am -1/ +2 with a stock length new chain. It barely fit. So no way can a -1/+4 fit.
And with it being SWB, its real hard to keep the front end down the whole way down the track. Much less the launch. If you go -1/+4, that thing is gonna spike you into the pavement like a golf tee at the drag strip trying to launch a SWB bike.
If you want better results, extend it, lower it & strap it. Then go -1/+4 and you will shit and get.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Im almost positive that the more you weigh the more your bike wheelies. It makes no sense and I hAve no factual evidence, but when i let my friend make a few passes on my bike at the track, he couldn't keep the front down through first, second or third. He has probably 50 to 60 pounds on me. And earlier that morning the only time it came up on me was in first gear. And I was wot throttle through all the gears. I think it has something to do with weight transfer?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I ran my best pass of 9.67 SWB with only -1 up front when i was 175-180 suited. I had a longer chain so the axle was further back in the arm. If you're only 140 -1 up front would be plenty and dont forget a strap up front. :thumbsup:
Thats pretty impressive! How do you have your rear suspension setup?
 

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Im almost positive that the more you weigh the more your bike wheelies. It makes no sense and I hAve no factual evidence, but when i let my friend make a few passes on my bike at the track, he couldn't keep the front down through first, second or third. He has probably 50 to 60 pounds on me. And earlier that morning the only time it came up on me was in first gear. And I was wot throttle through all the gears. I think it has something to do with weight transfer?
Well, I am 227 and I was crawling up on the front end trying to keep mine down.
 

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Im headed to the strip next week and was looking to get some imput on gearing. Last year i ran low 10s with my bike being completely stock the whole way around. Im looking to go 9s this year. My bike will be lowered, but still swb. My question is what kinda gearing should i go with. i was thinking about just going down a tooth up front, but didnt know if that would be enough. I dont want it to be too wicked or anything, but would really like to see 9s lol. Oh yeah btw im only 140 lbs suited up if that has any influence on gearing. Thanks in advance!
I have a tool bag of gearing and when I go to the strip the faster the changes the better . So I drop one up front 16T for me and go from there. You should get some pre lim runs . If not find a patch of road and paint a stripe on the side of the road. Mark 1/4 of a mile from there .3 is close and stop . paint a stripe. Use your lap timer equiped on your cluster. It works well. Be honest about these runs cause your top speed is not the target. The ET is the target. I know you know this Im just reminding you.

Go with +1 , +2, +3 , up to + 4 +5 rears. Rear sprocket changes are faster so I use 16T front but also have a 15T front, My 3 rears I keep are OEM Steel 40T and 41T, 42T and 43T and a 44T JT steel rear and I also have one 45T Vortex Aluminum. 17/45 equals -1/+2. A good base is -1/+2 and will give you a top speed of 168 MPH in a Hurry . you should top out in the rev limiter of 4th at 140 ish at the end of the 1/4

If you leave your front OEM and just change the rear the ratio numbers are the same but to ME it feels like its alot less herky jerky.
When your running the drag strip stay away from aluminum sprockets . JT makes a cheap steal sprocket and they are a little heavy but strength is important here for this application. Also I would NOTcommend a 520 Pitch setup. I am sure its safe but better safe than sorry. Cause your at a drag strip where your probably going to hit a wall if your zx10 decides to punish you

Im not a pro , just made a few passes last weekend and spent some time there during track days and ran a novice heat after my Mike Sullivan Level III race school . I keep the gearing around and have accumulated these sprockets over the years with all of my zx10's . The gen 4 uses a different sprocket pattern i "THINK" I know the OEM gearing differs

04/05 is 17/39
06/07 is 17/40
08/09 is 17/39 I THINK DONT QUOTE ME . I own a 2007
 

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Well, I am 227 and I was crawling up on the front end trying to keep mine down.
It depends on the gearing ... think about what makes a bike wheelie and it will help you decide why more weight makes a bike wheelie. there is a threshold though. 285 lbs will bog the low end down so iit cant but 150 vs 220 with a 2.8 ratio gearing means the bike will wheelie cause the weight disburses back increasing the upward momentum. where the 150 lb rider has nothing but brakes to bring the wheelies down, the heavier rider can just bend his/her elbows and absorb the thrust while moving the weight over the tank which is only 23 percent of the riders body weight

But honestly with my bikes once the nose reaches 9 o clock nothing but throttle let off or rear brakes will stop the wheelie cause your 5-10 degrees from the beginning of balance point
 

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ok, i am -1/ +2 with a stock length new chain. It barely fit. So no way can a -1/+4 fit.
And with it being swb, its real hard to keep the front end down the whole way down the track. Much less the launch. If you go -1/+4, that thing is gonna spike you into the pavement like a golf tee at the drag strip trying to launch a swb bike.
If you want better results, extend it, lower it & strap it. Then go -1/+4 and you will shit and get.
well said:+2:
 
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