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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #1
Placed the orders today ... I want to make something to play with on test and tune days but not so extreme to ruin it as a street bike, and it has to be legal, and I want to keep it all easily reversible. Turbo/nitrous are not happening.

Starting off with a stock bike, as far as performance goes, steering damper and PCIIIusb and 4 short velocity stacks, and the secondary butterflies are out, are the only things not bog standard.

Rider weighs too much (100 kg / 220 lbs) :sad:

On order:
quick shifter for the Power Commander
bolt on swingarm extensions (What should I set it to)
longer brake line
17/45 gearing with longer chain
lowering links (What should I set this to? Has to remain streetable ... an ill handling pig is not acceptable)
front strap kit

Already figured out how much the forks can be slid up in the triples before the bump stop potentially becomes the bottom of the upper fairing. I do not want that to happen. Looks like it can be lowered only about 10mm from stock height - no more. (remember ... has to remain streetable and safe) I'll do the rest with the strap so that it has acceptable bump travel for street.

Working on getting clearance to the rear fender - was all stock - found out that the steel bracket for the license plate has the same hole spacing as the stock license plate light, so I'm making use of that ... signals are staying and the license plate is going to remain lit and it's even going to have all of the required DOT marked reflectors, I don't want any excuses for the piggies to take it off the road.

Haven't decided if or what I'm going to do with the exhaust yet ... this has to remain a legal bike and around here that's starting to mean SAE J2825, the stock exhaust passes but with not much margin. Slip-on with the servo valve in the header staying there may be OK.

suggestions welcome ...
 

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Certified SLOW
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3,131 Posts
I have mine lowered 2" front & rear, slid through the forks. I have NEVER had it bottom out on the street or track, you definitely should be able to go down more than 10mm.

I would suggest going 16 up front so you won't require such a monster on the back.

I think you find out real soon, that you either set it up for the twisties or the strip. If your anything like me half ass on either won't cut it. You will have to go all in on one or the other, luckily changes are easily reversed if you ever decide to. Have fun!
 

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i have mine set at, on the ext. i have it all the way back i am at 63 in, the front fork tubes are slid throw 1 1/2 in and it will not bottom out, and the dog bones in the middle hole, with it that way i still ride a pass. my wife all the time and take the twisties good and with the strap up front for the track its right.
 

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x2 on the 16t up front and go up a feeth in the back to make up for the rest of gearing. also you can slide the forks a inch or so in the front without screwing up anything and still be streetable, might wanna set the bolt in the 2nd hole on the lowering links if you ride the streets and a passagner to keep from bottoming out. good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Lowering and stretching it will make it handle just like you don't want it to. The furthest I would lower it in the front with a stock header is 1.5". I had a friend drop his too much and the back of the front fender rubbed through the radiator. Mine is lowered 3" in the rear and 1" in front and it handles like a bus.
 

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Licensed Dist of HaterAde
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ahhhhhhhhhhhh hell, i can't wait to see the finished product.....subscribed!!
 

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Is Toronto really getting that bad regarding aftermarket exhausts? When I grew up and lived in Aurora it wasn't bad at all. Even here around Ottawa they don't bother most people when it comes to exhausts. Nobody I know has had any problems with them.

On topic though. I can't wait to see how this turns out and subscribed! I've yet to install the quick shifter but have been contemplating it for months.
 

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Oh and on the exhaust, I have a Leo Vince full system (on Gen. 1). It's pretty darn quiet but has a very nice tone. I don't have the extra little silencer in it either. They have them on ebay for cheap right now. It may be worth asking them if it will pass, especially since they now have a presence on the forum.
 

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Supercharged Mod
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4,392 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Caledon - the mostly rural municipality immediately north of where I live - has put a bylaw in effect that is based on SAE J2825 and the rumour is that other municipalities are going to follow. Hence, no nasty loud exhausts for me.

Anyway, I'm fully aware of the geometry effects of drastic lowering and huge wheelbase changes and I'm not going to do that. For a first try, whatever change in ride height I can get at the front without inviting front fender / fairing collisions I'll match at the back so that the rake/trail stay the same, and then see how it works. Lowering more in the rear than in the front will certainly screw up the handling - I have a roadracing background and I can detect differences of +/- 2mm in ride height from what it "should" be for neutral steering ...

The engineer in me can't resist doing some math. The center of gravity of the stock rider/bike combination is somewhere near 25 inches forward of the stock rear axle centerline. It's on the edge of doing a power wheelie at max acceleration now and I'm shortening the gearing about 10% so if one assumes 10% harder acceleration (that's also what's needed to get the 60-foot times from 1.9-something to 1.7-something ...) then it'll be the same level of "wheelie-prone" if the wheel is about 2.5 - 3 inches further back and ride height (i.e. center of gravity height) stays the SAME as stock. Anything beyond that would allow the clutch to be let out harder but it's also what is screwing up the handling. I think I'm going to take a first guess at +5 inches on the wheelbase. It can always be adjusted later ...

Stuff done so far

Picked up the quick shifter today, installed and wired it and activated it in the software. I run reverse shift pattern and the switch was rubbing on the kickstand return spring, a washer underneath the shift linkage pivot to move it out a couple millimeters fixed that. Also set my speedohealer to the right factor for the proposed gearing even though I don't have it yet. No test ride, too cold. Next step ... suspension disassembly.
 

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The other thing you could to help your 60' time and keep the front end down is to set the rear shock compression and rebound to soft so the bike squats on launch. This is only for swb. If you're stretched you want them hard.
 

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I know where Caledon is..I've been there several times..That sucks that they put that bylaw in but it's not surprising these days either..We got no emissions 20 minutes from where I am..I'm just across the boundry for where emissions come into place..go figure.
 

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The other thing you could to help your 60' time and keep the front end down is to set the rear shock compression and rebound to soft so the bike squats on launch. This is only for swb. If you're stretched you want them hard.
good info right here. i have my busa shock setup like this and it helped out alot with my 60 times.
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #14
I'm not going to such extremes. This has to remain a streetable bike with acceptable suspension travel and handling characteristics (and acceptable RPM at highway cruise). No NOS, no forced induction.

Still waiting for stuff to show up ..
 

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Supercharged Mod
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4,392 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Waiting for a rear sprocket. Supplier sent a stock replacement sprocket instead of what I wanted. Doesn't really matter, because we had our first good snowfall of the season yesterday. Everything else is together - just can't put the rear wheel on and can't install the chain until the correct sprocket comes in.
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #17
Almost done ... good enough to have a test ride, which I just did!

Obviously no hard riding in conditions like this - sand and wet pavement everywhere ... but the quickshifter works, the speedohealer works, and the objective of not ruining it as a street bike I figure has been achieved. Steering feels normal and neutral (thanks to not slamming it to the ground and paying attention to the geometry). At this point, I'm not changing a thing. Still need to put a front end strap on it but at that point, it's good to go.

crappy out of focus picture ...

 

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Almost done ... good enough to have a test ride, which I just did!

Obviously no hard riding in conditions like this - sand and wet pavement everywhere ... but the quickshifter works, the speedohealer works, and the objective of not ruining it as a street bike I figure has been achieved. Steering feels normal and neutral (thanks to not slamming it to the ground and paying attention to the geometry). At this point, I'm not changing a thing. Still need to put a front end strap on it but at that point, it's good to go.

crappy out of focus picture ...

looks good ! but do you plan on lowering the bike any ?
 

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Supercharged Mod
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Discussion Starter #19
No I am NOT lowering it any further. I do not want to ruin streetability and that means it still needs to turn corners and it still needs to have full suspension travel available at both ends. Riding it right now the way it is, the steering response feels very close to stock, at least in daily-riding conditions.
 

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That looks good. I don't like stretched arms because of the way it makes the bike look. The tire is way out past the body. It is very effective for a great launch. Maybe your bike looks better because it's not dumped with a stretch. It won't turn quite like stock due to the longer wheel base. So be careful.
 
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