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Cream in oil filler cap

1916 Views 14 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Rifleman
Coolant seems to be dropping from the overflow too, , not much but its noticable.

No smoke when starting from cold, no power loss, only started happening since Ive decat and a GP Comp Werks pipe on, could it be running rich causing this (loads of backfire on decel)

I doubt it would be headgasket - only got 24K on , Gen 2.

Also its been very wet and humid here last two weeks. Could it just be moisture
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I would put money on it just being condensation. Have you done any short rides where the engine wouldn't have gotten fully up to temperature? That will cause it. That's not to say it "couldn't" be coolant as there are a couple of points where that can happen but I think it's much more likely condensation.
Thanks TDH,

I thought that too. Also, have just flushed and replaced the coolant with engine Ice. And My operating temp is now 60 degrees celcius when hot, 68 if im sitting in traffic.

I am commuting to work on it, 5 miles each way,

Could it be that engine ice and decat are making the motor run too cool - meaning im getting moisture...

Anyone got some ideas on why my overflow level is dropping, thanks!
sorry that 140 f running temp
154F when in traffic - seems too low to me...
Couple of things here.

It could very well be condensation, but may not be. I'd clean the cap and inspect the oil. If the milky mixture is only on the cap, it may be OK and I'd just monitor it. If the oil looks cloudy in the motor then you've got bigger issues. The coolant in the reservoir dropping is suspicious. That may indicate a leak in the system or a headgasket issue.

Frankly, 5 miles is not nearly enough time to get the motor up to temp and burn off any residual condensation in the crankcase/oil. It should take somewhere closer to 10-15 miles of normal riding to get everything up to proper temp. I don't care what the water temp on the dash shows in that time, because that's only the water temp around the cylinders. That's not indicative of the oil, transmission, lower half of the motor, etc, etc. You need a good long ride to get there and hold it at temp. And about 180deg is needed to start burning off any condensation. Don't let it idle up to that temp just for that purpose either. Prolonged idling is never good for any motor. Take the bike out and go ride it for 30 mins and check things again.

I'd expect running temps to be in the mid 140s when the ambient temp is in the 50s or so. Expect about 180degs in the summer. Higher of course if sitting in traffic. And no, I don't think your slip-on or engine ice swap is causing it to run "too cold".
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That don't look normal... check your oil color, better yet do an oil change and see..
It could be coming from the water pump too. I doubt the head gasket busted.

It could be nothing too, just condensation.

Put out the oil in a clean jar and inspect it to see if their any grey colour or presence of anti freeze. The oil if there's any coolant in it will have a typical greyish colour.
That don't look normal... check your oil color, better yet do an oil change and see..
Agree, time to check engine oil.
Yeah, 5 miles will do that. I used to drive my Camaro back and forth to work only about 2 miles away and wouldn't drive it any farther than that. I had gobs of exactly what you are showing under my oil cap. Every once in a while you have to take the thing out and get it fully up to temp and ride it awhile to keep the moisture from building up. Are you seeing the oil level go up in the sight gauge?
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I would still drain the oil see wat it looks like.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Not being driven enough and that's normal with cold weather and moisture in the air. Been there, seen it on a brand new bike too when it gets cold and when there is lots of moisture and condensation weather conditions. Flog her good over a long ride and that will take care of it or otherwise circulate a safe moisture reducing agent through the oil before doing an oil change and that should take care of the moisture and get you fresh oil.
I used to make clear covers for the Suzuki TL's, SV's, and the 1000 Gixxers. Would get this question all the time because now they could see inside the case, as before, they could not.

Tan or white cream in the coldest part of the engine case is pretty normal. For some reason I can't see the picture that was posted.

Smell it, does it smell like oil, engine exhaust, or gasoline-ish... that is normal. Does it smell like anti-freeze or Ethylene Glycol (<-- anti freeze) that is bad.

if you do have an anti freeze smell, you can use a black light and see if the cream has a green glow to it.

The info behind. Internal combustion engines produce water vapor (steam) when hydrocarbons are burned. This steam is at high pressure and finds its way by the rings and into the crank case. water and oil make an emulsion when the engine is running... and the emulsion condenses out on the cold parts of the engine case... usually the oil filler cap.

This is why all IC engines need positive crank case vents. water and combustion gasses going past the rings needs to find a way out of the crank case.

So when you run the engine long enough and get it up to temp, the moisture will be turned back into steam and will exit the PCV valve.

this is what it looks like after getting the engine up to temp.

hope all that helps
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