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Here's the parts list I have. Remember though, I sourced the rod bearings from APE that they matched to the crank. That's why they're not on this list. Quantities are shown at the end.

11061-0442 Timing cover gasket 1
11061-0441 Stator cover gasket 1
11061-0735 Clutch cover gasket 1
11061-0747 Oil pan gasket 1
13251-0031-HH Connecting Rod Assembly (with bolts/nuts) 4
92033-1054 Wrist pin snap rings 8
16154-0708 Oil Pump Rotor 1
92055-0208 Water Pump O-ring 1
92055-1577 Oil Pump O-ring 1
16130-1059 Oil Pressure Relief Valve 1
49065-0027 Oil Pickup Screen 1
92055-0739 Oil Cooler O-ring 1
92200-0115 Case Bolt Washers (Crankshaft Internal) 10
11061-0262 Case Bolt Washer (underside timing area) 1
92200-0047 Case Bolt Washer (upper case) 2
92200-0114 Head Bolt Washers 10
92055-1503 Oil Pickup O-ring 1
92055-0211 Oil Passage O-ring (oil pan) 1
16097-0008 Oil Filter 2
11060-1203 Exhaust Gasket 4
92049-0068 Main Output Shaft Seal 1
92015-1963 Front Sprocket Nut 1
11004-0720 Head gasket - OPTIONAL 0.60mm thick 1
92139-0298 Main bearing insert, #1, #3, #5 - BLUE 6
92139-0301 Main bearing insert, #2, #4 - BLUE 4
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I bet you had fresh oil What's your fail theory?
I have two theories:

1. Did use Motul 300V ester oil too long (1000 track miles).
Oil lost best protective properties.
It got too thin (unburned fuel etc.) causing pump output to drop.
Filter not new anymore means additional pressure drop.
Stock head gasket hole lets oil to bleed through cam more than optimal for track use.
Rod bearing oil supply depends from main bearing and when that bleeds too much, then double negative effect: another pressure loss, pluss oil qty loss (as oil line is same).

2. Unlikely, but maybe just somewhat unlucky crank from factory.
I don't have expirience rebuilding engines, how common it is that crank has only one O-mark for rod journal diameter (with thinner brown making on bearing)?
 

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So I have a theory as well, as least for my issue. The oil pump just does not prime quickly after an oil change. Once the oil is drained, the pump is empty and when restarting the motor afterwards, takes too long to build the pressure - if it does. Too many times I've let the motor run for 10-15secs without pressure and I've had to go back and burp the oil filter. I think in my case that this running after an oil change wore the bearings down. Over time they get loose and leaky and it's an avalanche from there. That's the only thing I can think of as the oil gets changed religiously on mine and the longest interval I had was 2,800 miles. It gets changed either right before or right after a trackday also depending on how many miles are on it.

My bearing spun while pulling away from a stoplight just off idle - about 3-4,000rpm. Luckily it wasn't under power higher up on the tach when it happened.
 

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I don't have expirience rebuilding engines, how common it is that crank has only one O-mark for rod journal diameter (with thinner brown making on bearing)?
You mean the rods have the O-mark? The crank journal markings are on the outside of the case, but coincide with the main journals. The rods themselves are marked for their diameter around the weight marks. Interestingly enough, my old rods did not have the O-mark. All of my new ones do. It may just be the luck of the draw (since you get what you get and can't specify it) or Kawi has gone to a thicker bearing to help prevent issues. Not sure.

I wouldn't be worried if only 1 was marked this way.
 

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Here's that pic of the difference between the normal and race head gaskets. It's not the best picture, but I didn't want to take either out of the plastic just yet. Tried to get a pic as best I could to show the differences, which is significant.

Race gasket with the smaller passage is shown on top in the red area. Standard gasket for comparison is below it.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I've had to go back and burp the oil filter.
Thanks for pointing it out.
How do you check that oil primed?
I can think of this method:
Inserting naked wire between block and oil fiter seal.
Turning filter lightly leaving leak at wire.
Cranking motor with fuel pump disconnected until oil leaks at filter.
Immediatley pull out wire, tighten fiter and crank little more.
 

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Thanks for pointing it out.
How do you check that oil primed?
I can think of this method:
Inserting naked wire between block and oil fiter seal.
Turning filter lightly leaving leak at wire.
Cranking motor with fuel pump disconnected until oil leaks at filter.
Immediatley pull out wire, tighten fiter and crank little more.
Well, that's similar to what I've done in the past, but not quite and more complicated than it needs to be. I'd be really worried that any object in between the seal and the motor would cut the o-ring.

What I've done is just tighten the oil filter until the o-ring makes contact. Fill the sump with oil. And then loosen the filter slightly until the oil starts to seep out a little bit and start the motor. Once the oil pressure comes up (which should be quick), tighten the filter quickly. And of course, prefill the oil filter as much as possible first thing. It's messy doing it this way, but the oil pressure always comes up right away.
 

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I just fill the filter with oil, put it, of course it leaks some, before I tightened and start the bike.....
when I change oil not even without using this method I consider the light taking to long, my gixxer took forever and sold it with 50K of hard core, top end races all weekends.

Skydork so when you send the crank you have to send the rods??? they put the bearings and match it?
and you buy the smaller bearings (crank - crankcase)....

expensive stuff
 

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Skydork so when you send the crank you have to send the rods??? they put the bearings and match it?
and you buy the smaller bearings (crank - crankcase)....

expensive stuff
No, you don't have to send in the rods. I chose to do that so it would be easier on me. I wanted them to check the rods for roundness/straightness and while they were there, I had them fit the new bearings for me matched to the repaired crank. It just made it easier in the long run not having to monkey around with it after getting the crank back.

Keep in mind, that the repaired crank may or may not still hold the tolerances on all the undamaged journals. You really only pay for the repair on the damaged journal. They don't blueprint the entire crank. So if one of the old journals is different than the case markings would indicate, you won't know that until it's measured. So, I just had them do that work for me.

And yes, it's expensive stuff.
 

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It makes sense now the big bore cometic gaskets if been getting also have the smaller holes & interestingly restricted coolant ports around the inlet side of the jacket too.
 

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Very interesting thread.
I have done a bunch of trackdays and several thousand miles of street riding all with Kawi filters and Mobil1 10w40. Before track days, it was 600, 1000 and then 4000, followed by 3000 religiously. My bike is just over 20k and I spent all of last summer at the track with it. I change oil/filter every other track day (I ride the top end of B group) and the oil comes out a "good" color. Hopefully I'm doing it right.
Another thing to add is I had APE my crank for my zx9r a few year back and while the repair was expensive (spun #3 rod) it was worth it.

Good luck to OP and hopefully you are taking notes.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I'm making some progress, have all parts together now and starting engine assembly.
As this is my first time doing it I could need tips to pay attention to when putting all together.

One important question: Should I put oil on OUTER surfaces of bearing shells (maybe they get better seated when torqued?) or leaving them dry?

Took risk buying a used crank form eBay and got goodone. Then I decided to lighten crank myself "g5 style", I removed dead material from 2. and 6. throw, see attached pictures.
Total mass removed was 0.7kg (from high radius area).

Here tips if somone wants to do it too:
*I used manual saw as much as possible, no heat, no bending to crank, less chance to damage journals accidentally. At the end crank bend stayed same (0.01mm).
*Using angle ginder: dont run crank hot, make pauses, toutch with hand to check temp.
*Think how to place crank in wice to not drop or deform it.
*I took material away only at those two throws, because this way crank internal balance statys same as from factory. Educate yourself what is internal, static and dynamic balance.
*Do one thow at a time from start to end. When first is done go to balancer shop to give it back rough balance, before starting with next. I did not, had perfect two vertical glass surfaces to roll the crank and give it pluss minus 2g (small magnet is useful).
*Dynamic balancing with mashine is a must, it is not a tractor crank! Since it spinns 14k revs, I did pay my balancer operator extra money saying "show me how many gramms is your machine is capable". At 0.15g (or ca. 10gmm units) numbers started to fluctuate (belt and wind influence). Normally shops do some 0.3g or 25gmm for race engine.
*Let them do balancing with generator disk and specially cam sprocket/crank sensor disk attached too. My generator disk was perfect, but other end (crank sensor disk or cam sprocket) was 30gmm off (1g at it's radius).
 

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