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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok then, some questions for the mechs:

Fisrt:
I have 8 conrods, 4 marked with "L" and 4 marked with "K".
I believe it has to do with weight. Which are better and why?
Which ones to use, the ones that are visually better?

Second:
How much torque should i use on the conrod bolts? The manual describes 2 ways that are way difficult. Any "real world" torque specs? Really tight by hand maybe around 36-40Nm?

Third:
I cannot measure with accuracy the thickness of my crankshaft bearings.
I know for sure the crankshaft diameter was measured ok. If i put new bearings (color matched) should i be ok? If i am on the tight side i could use the old ones already in the cases?

Note : Cases, crankshaft and conrods are from different engines (but they do match, bought them as spare parts).

Thanks for all the help :thumbsup:
 

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Fisrt:
take 4 of them to a shop and have the blanced

Second:
go by rod bolt strech you can get the tool from almost any auto parts store

Third:
by color code should work out just make sure to double check your clearances plata-gauge unles you are trying to make clearances to your own spec
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fisrt:
take 4 of them to a shop and have the blanced ???

Second:
go by rod bolt strech you can get the tool from almost any auto parts store

Third:
by color code should work out just make sure to double check your clearances plata-gauge unles you are trying to make clearances to your own spec

No i am trying to put your cases with a crankshaft i bought, which was tested twice, and all specs was found in range. Plastigaauge is hard to get accurate readings.
Should i use yours? Any history on the cases, why they were split? Thanks :thumbsup:
 

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Speed Freak
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Hey bud! Hows everything.....

well with the connecting rods, if I were you I would measure them on a pretty accurate scale and use the lighter pair but make sure you use all of the same lettered rods. also mark on the rods the weight of each rod you can use this to match them to the pistons to balance the assembly your self. You measure the piston as well and mate up the heaviest rod with the lightest piston and so on to have them all about the same weight or as close as possible.

As for torque. I have always used BRAND NEW connecting rod bolts and nuts, those bolts are only supposed to stretch so much... I believe the manual calls for a certain torque on the nuts and then you tighten them 90* you can go to anywhere that has tools and probably find them, its basically a socket extension with a degree wheel on there and once you learn how to set it up, its actually VERY easy to use and put the correct angle on the bolt.... kawi did that for a reason so I Would stick with it honestly bud.

Crank bearings..... If I were you I would order the new color matched bearings, then I would get plastigage, apply it on the crank, tighten the case bolts down to torque spec and then measure the plastigage and see what oil clearance you have on the crank, there should be a spec in the book, if you don't know what I'm talking about with the plastigage check out this.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-plastigage-measure-clearances.html
 

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Speed Freak
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No i am trying to put your cases with a crankshaft i bought, which was tested twice, and all specs was found in range. Plastigaauge is hard to get accurate readings.
Should i use yours? Any history on the cases, why they were split? Thanks :thumbsup:
what sorta readings are you getting???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey bud! Hows everything.....

well with the connecting rods, if I were you I would measure them on a pretty accurate scale and use the lighter pair but make sure you use all of the same lettered rods. also mark on the rods the weight of each rod you can use this to match them to the pistons to balance the assembly your self. You measure the piston as well and mate up the heaviest rod with the lightest piston and so on to have them all about the same weight or as close as possible.

As for torque. I have always used BRAND NEW connecting rod bolts and nuts, those bolts are only supposed to stretch so much... I believe the manual calls for a certain torque on the nuts and then you tighten them 90* you can go to anywhere that has tools and probably find them, its basically a socket extension with a degree wheel on there and once you learn how to set it up, its actually VERY easy to use and put the correct angle on the bolt.... kawi did that for a reason so I Would stick with it honestly bud.

Crank bearings..... If I were you I would order the new color matched bearings, then I would get plastigage, apply it on the crank, tighten the case bolts down to torque spec and then measure the plastigage and see what oil clearance you have on the crank, there should be a spec in the book, if you don't know what I'm talking about with the plastigage check out this.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-plastigage-measure-clearances.html
Thanks bud :thumbsup:
I already got new bolts and nuts. I also got new conrod bearings.
I weighted the rods and they all the same (3 decimals), pistons the same so i am ok...

I get different readings with the green plasticgage, i'll try again...


Another question: How do you remove the bearing from the gearbox "cover" to put the ceramic one? Is there a special tool?


Don't forget guys, i live on a tiny island on the...other half of the world :lol: Viva la Internet
 

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Speed Freak
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oh ok, yeah I forget, was just going off the top of my head...

as for that ceramic bearing, you need a bearing puller, They have one that pulls from the inside diameter of the bearing, lock it in a vice and pull her out...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
as for that ceramic bearing, you need a bearing puller, They have one that pulls from the inside diameter of the bearing, lock it in a vice and pull her out...
I found a smaller one and just got it out :thumbsup:
 
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