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Discussion Starter #1
Ok....Thanks to niklasinorr, I changed my suspension. I added a 5mm spacer to the rear shock and dropped the front 8mm, we didnt have a stand and wanted to drop it at 5mm, when I get a stand will move it to 5mm. I also stiffened the preload to almost full because of my weight. Anywho...the bike turns alot better now. It still is not what I want but closer. What I am really confused over is that I thought making this change would make it harder to wheelie. It is the opposite, front end just wants to rise in 1st and 2nd. Why would this happen?
 

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With the rear higher, you can get a better "bite" on acceleration. This will cause more of a shift in weight to the rear and bring the front up easier.
 

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kneedragger_13 said:
It is the opposite, front end just wants to rise in 1st and 2nd. Why would this happen?
The bike is mad that you made such extreme changes to it without setting the sag and it's trying to throw you off.:fu2:
 

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My thoughts are that raising the rear ride height AND lowering the front ride height are too much in combination.

Do you know the steering feel that you are looking for? I want a "neutral" feel - if I set a given lean angle I want it to feel like I could take my hands off the bars and it would keep that lean angle without further input ... no need to hold it down, no need to stop it from leaning too far.

If you are playing with steering geometry and you are using worn or flat-spot-in-middle tires, you are going to be chasing your tail on this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
GoFaster said:
My thoughts are that raising the rear ride height AND lowering the front ride height are too much in combination.

Do you know the steering feel that you are looking for? I want a "neutral" feel - if I set a given lean angle I want it to feel like I could take my hands off the bars and it would keep that lean angle without further input ... no need to hold it down, no need to stop it from leaning too far.

If you are playing with steering geometry and you are using worn or flat-spot-in-middle tires, you are going to be chasing your tail on this one.
Yes, I want it to steer like you say, neautral. I have been fighting the steering since I bought it. If I cant get this to turn like I want then I might be getting rid of my 10.
Any help would be greatly appreciated....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
brian0128 said:
The bike is mad that you made such extreme changes to it without setting the sag and it's trying to throw you off.:fu2:
:crackup: You are full of Gibber Jabber :fu2:
 

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whats your suited weight that you have near full preload dialed in??

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Big Daddy said:
whats your suited weight that you have near full preload dialed in??

BD
Tipping the scales at about 225 right now riding.
 

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kneedragger_13 said:
Tipping the scales at about 225 right now riding.
Mmm dare i say the fork springs need replacing and if your ok with spending $$$ on the 10 so that it performs to your liking then an aftermarket shock is necessary as well.

BD
 

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kneedragger_13 said:
Yes, I want it to steer like you say, neautral. I have been fighting the steering since I bought it. If I cant get this to turn like I want then I might be getting rid of my 10.
Any help would be greatly appreciated....
well if you cant get it to turn it wouldnt be the bikes fault. You just have to make the right adjustments. I played with a number of things. Tires, suspension and such and it took a little time before i had exactly what i wanted but now it turns in great with stability to match. Part of that may be the aftermarket fork internals as well but even with the stock you can get them workin to a point. I think 8mm in the front is a bit to aggressive all at once. Maybe start with 3mm or so and go from there so you know how each change is affecting the bike. and get the sag set.
 

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Big Daddy said:
Mmm dare i say the fork springs need replacing and if your ok with spending $$$ on the 10 so that it performs to your liking then an aftermarket shock is necessary as well.

BD
yuppers, gotta have it sprung for your weight. BD yah know ther might be 10 posts now i have seen that have actually been informative out of the 20+ thousand..:spit:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
As soon as my friend gets back fron Brno I am putting the front at 5mm drop, and setting the sag. I know I need new springs for my weight. It just bothers me that I have not had this many problems with my other bikes.
I road my friends '04 Aprillia Factory yesterday and that had perfect steering, I mean perfect. If my 10 steered like that, the bike would be soooo awsome...
 

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kneedragger_13 said:
As soon as my friend gets back fron Brno I am putting the front at 5mm drop, and setting the sag. I know I need new springs for my weight. It just bothers me that I have not had this many problems with my other bikes.
I road my friends '04 Aprillia Factory yesterday and that had perfect steering, I mean perfect. If my 10 steered like that, the bike would be soooo awsome...
I would agree its quite a different animal than many of my previous bikes but i've stuck with it mainly because i knew with some time and aftermarket parts it would come to my liking so with the addition of 636 parts and aftermarket its heaps better.
The prilla factory is a great package including suspension bits so in all fairness in the 06 mastrbike shootout the 06 10 only lost out to it so to me that speaks quite highly of it in stock form.

BD
 

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All of the litre bikes benefit from having their suspension properly set to match the rider. ALL of them. Bikes with extreme power-to-weight ratios make suspension settings all the more critical. You HAVE to muck around with the suspension.

The Aprilia is a somewhat different beast - bit less power than the ZX10R, so potentially more forgiving, and you have to consider the price difference, too. It costs practically double what a Japanese mass-market litre bike costs. For the price tag of that bike it had *better* have top-rated suspension, instead of stuff made to go down the assembly line cheep and easy, and yet still be good enough for most people. And yet even with that, the Aprilia will benefit from being set up to each rider. If that bike has already had its suspension set up and yours hasn't, that's a big part of the difference you feel right there.

We are talking about a 2006 ZX10R here. What tires - and specifically, what tire sizes - are on there? And how many kilometers are on them?

My '04 steers well enough for me, but it took taking out a bunch of front preload to get the sag correct AND sliding the forks 5mm up in the triple clamps AND replacing the Dunlop D218 tires with Michelin Pilot Power tires in the same nominal sizes as stock to get it where I want it. I did not touch rear ride height and the rear preload was correct for my fat arse.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Big Daddy said:
Mmm dare i say the fork springs need replacing and if your ok with spending $$$ on the 10 so that it performs to your liking then an aftermarket shock is necessary as well.

BD
Ok... I have decided to make this beast controlable :mrgreen: What would you suggest BD? Looking at my tires, need to get new ones. With my setup now do you think I can go to a 190/50 instead of the 190/55 or do I need to stay with the 190/55? I was thinking Race Tech springs and Gold Valve kit for my weight. Rear shock, can I get a new spring or should I get a new shock, Penske, Ohlins, or other? Any other suggestions?
 

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ok, the truth comes out, you've been trying to get it to turn in based on worn out tires, ain't gonna happen :badteeth: ! ! !

If you stay with the stock 190/55 rear tire size then I'd suggest putting the rear ride height back to stock, leave the front lowered 5mm, set up front and rear sag correctly, and go from there. For most normal street riding, front rider-aboard sag should be around 35mm, rear rider-aboard sag should be around 30mm. For track riding take 5mm off both of those (and you might need stiffer fork springs depending on how much of the travel you are using). This will obviously only be a starting point subject to further fiddling depending on how it feels.

Changing to a 190/50 rear tire means more tire choices, but now the geometry is different. Theoretically the rear end will be riding 9.5mm lower. Jacking up the rear suspension to compensate will change the swingarm angle, but honestly I don't know what's going to be the outcome of doing that. Another choice might be a 180/55 rear tire. Theoretically the rear ride height will be only 5.5mm lower with that tire, and narrower tires (only slightly) ought to mean quicker turn-in which seems to be what you are after.

Unfortunately, when you go outside the known boundaries, sometimes the only way to know for sure what's going to happen is to give it a go, take a best guess, and see what happens.
 

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knee,

gofaster has given you quality info. New tires and a bare minimum fork springs and shock for your suited weight. You'll want a new shock for adjustability and addressing one of the probs with the OEM unit is valving so just installing a spring isn't good enough.

BD
 

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more than likely knee will end up with 1.0kg springs and a 525lb rated shock spring but whatever suspension Co he chooses will surely recommend whats best.

BD
 
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