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Discussion Starter #1
Im sure someone has done it here, just curius of how much was saved. Pro-Bolt has a full kit out for the 08's but $1375 is a bit steep/
 

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not worth the money !!!! if you dont road race just drop a brake and rotor off the front tire and you will save 5 times as much weight and only cost you 30 for a new brake line!!!!
 

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if your worried about weight there is plenty of shit you can take off and save money !!!
 

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$1,375.00??? Holy crap.
 

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Street/Strip
take of a front brake and rotor and the back rotor and brake (about 10 pounds total)

turn signals (3 pounds )

take your radator and have it cut in half (4 pounds )

take all of the heat shields out of the bike (2 pounds)

then just look at the bike and if it dont need it to run or work the lights and stuff take it off
 

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your headlights weigh a shit ton, so do the stock exhaust system, emissions, charcoal canister (for cali bikes) passenger pegs, exhaust servo...Track body work is a lot lighter as well. Lighter wheels help a crap ton, so do lighter rotors, sprockets and lighter chains. Lighter battery sheds around 5 lbs as well. My 10R feels like a damn bicycle, its quite nice!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
take of a front brake and rotor and the back rotor and brake (about 10 pounds total)

turn signals (3 pounds )

take your radator and have it cut in half (4 pounds )

take all of the heat shields out of the bike (2 pounds)

then just look at the bike and if it dont need it to run or work the lights and stuff take it off

your headlights weigh a shit ton, so do the stock exhaust system, emissions, charcoal canister (for cali bikes) passenger pegs, exhaust servo...Track body work is a lot lighter as well. Lighter wheels help a crap ton, so do lighter rotors, sprockets and lighter chains. Lighter battery sheds around 5 lbs as well. My 10R feels like a damn bicycle, its quite nice!

The signals are all intergrated, my exhaust light enough, pass pegs are gone. The bike spends all week on the street so cant do track body just yet. Rotors, Battery, and Wheels are all on my list of wants. Also looking for a servo eliminator if some one want to get rid of theirs.
 

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The signals are all intergrated, my exhaust light enough, pass pegs are gone. The bike spends all week on the street so cant do track body just yet. Rotors, Battery, and Wheels are all on my list of wants. Also looking for a servo eliminator if some one want to get rid of theirs.
you said you were looking for a servo eliminator?

i dont know if you saw my recent post, i wired a few resistors into the servo circuit and it seemed to fix my FI light. if you could snap a pic of the servo and the connectors (or see if its the same part number as 06-07), you could try my method. the only problem is that i have not tested it on the road yet (my bike is in my living room for winter). i have ran it at low and high RPM and the light did not turn on. so you could try that and us all know about it.
 

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Start with a Speedcell (comparative battery) that alone is going to save you mroe weight than the pro-bolt titanum kit.

I have added a decent amount of titanium on my girl and well for the money it is top quality stuff and does not get oxidized or anything else, but no way i would be dumping that kind of money as a whole can be better spent for sure...
most of the stuff i bought was like $20 here a bit there..
 

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If you guys want cheap ti, ARP, and SPS fasteners already drilled for safety wire, get with your local A&P mechanics. The aircraft industry uses that shit on planes and helo's which gets replaced annualy during required inspections, some of those guys save tons of that crap as well as stainless Aeroquip fittings.
In my opinion steel is tougher (not harder) and I would never trade my grade8 fasteners for ti, not to mention paying full retail prices for it.
I got alot of weight peeled off my bike also and now wish it were heavier at high speed. It's alot more work to ride a light bike fast than a heavy one.
 

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If you guys want cheap ti, ARP, and SPS fasteners already drilled for safety wire, get with your local A&P mechanics. The aircraft industry uses that shit on planes and helo's which gets replaced annualy during required inspections, some of those guys save tons of that crap as well as stainless Aeroquip fittings.
In my opinion steel is tougher (not harder) and I would never trade my grade8 fasteners for ti, not to mention paying full retail prices for it.
I got alot of weight peeled off my bike also and now wish it were heavier at high speed. It's alot more work to ride a light bike fast than a heavy one.
Motion Pro now has a set of combination (open and closed end) wrenches made of Titanium, but with a disclaimer stating their not really for everyday shop use. When I asked them why their reply was tool steel chrome vanadium is tougher than Titanium which would wear out if used everyday on nuts and bolts. Seems along the same lines of your thinking.
 
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