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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My traction and power controls Yellow light as well as the dashes on the temp blink (Flashing) cranks but WILL NOT START canit be ABS the steering damper I do not have a key that goes to the ignition I just have a little killswitch fro the battery to the main power wire I’ve always kept it the way I bought it had it about a week I did a small highway run that I was going 140, then shortly after it died around 20 mph off the freeway I’ve replaced the battery now what… helllpppppp
 

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Well, hello to you to.

What year bike? That's kinda important to know. And did you steal the bike? Or was it a stolen recovery?
 

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e3b is the ESD fault.
39 is the ECU comm error.
e56 doesn't exist. There is no such code
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It’s a 2014 an no of course not I bought it at police auction, it’s always started and rode amazing until just randomly yesterday I’ve had it for 2 years
 

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It’s a 2014 an no of course not I bought it at police auction, it’s always started and rode amazing until just randomly yesterday I’ve had it for 2 years
That's a good answer!

Still not right. No such code exists. the E codes peak at E3b, which you already had in there. All E-codes are ESD related.

How do I fix it
Depends on what is causing the problem. What "shortly after died"? The bike? The motor? Lost power? And you went to restart it and the battery was dead? Or you just replaced it with wishful thinking hoping that was it? Have you done anything to figure out why the ECU isn't communicating to the insturment cluster for code 39? What other mods are on the bike? So many questions, so little detail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I took a hit to around 140 hopped off the freeway turned around and the motor cut out and won’t turn back on and replaced the battery
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is there a resistor that could’ve bad from the “blank” key that’s tripping one code but yet not sending a signal to the ecu so the fuel pump is cut out .?
 

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I took a hit to around 140 hopped off the freeway turned around and the motor cut out and won’t turn back on and replaced the battery
The engine shut off on it's own and everything went dark? Or just the engine shut down wouldn't restart when you hit the button? Two completely different things to deal with depending on what actually happened here and they aren't related to each other.

Is there a resistor that could’ve bad from the “blank” key that’s tripping one code but yet not sending a signal to the ecu so the fuel pump is cut out .?
No. US-spec versions don't have that. There is a switch that prevents the fuel pump from running, not a resistor. That's only part of the Euro version with the immobilizer. The bike would never have ran if the immobilizer wasn't there.

I always thought US spec bikes weren't fitted with immobiliser?
You are correct! US-spec (North American) don't have anything like that. There is no chipped key, amplifier, or ECU software that prevents starting like that.
 

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Could it be abs my steering damper is also loose I think

Ed’s fuse kibs fuse ?
You said in the original post it couldn't be either the ESD or the ABS. Have you actually checked the fuses? And no, neither of those things will keep it from starting. Service codes, yes, but it will still run.
 

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Fuel pump failure abs module ?
That statement makes no sense. The fact that you're trying to tie anything ABS related to the engine not running is ridiculous. The 2 things are not remotely related.

If you've confirmed the fuel pump isn't running at all, then the fuel pump is bad, the relay box is bad, the vehicle down sensor is tripped, or the ECU is faulty. If the fuel pump is running but the fuel pressure is low, then it's low on gas, there's water in the lines, the fuel pump is not spinning fast enough, the fuel filter is clogged, or the fuel injectors are clogged. If the fuel pump runs but the engine doesn't start, it could be any one of several things. If the brakes don't work, then there's a problem with the brakes.

If you have several different things going on, then solve one thing first and then move on to the other things. One thing at a time.
 

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ive narrowed it down to when i turn the ignition to on the fuel pump fuse blows evrytime and if i make my own fue that wont blow the dash goes blank
That information helps. I want to try and help you get this resolved and I appreciate the effort on your part! At this point though, I think you may be in over your head and should probably take it to a repair shop.

There is no fuse for the fuel pump. You can't "make your own fuse" with the same amp rating that is there to protect the circuit. So if you're just jumpering across the fuse terminals, you're going to fry something else downstream. The fuel pump is operated from a relay controlled by the ECU and gets power through the 15A Ignition fuse. The power is routed through the stop switch and ignition switch before getting to the relay to drive the pump. If you're jumper is rerouting power away from everything else in the circuit then the instrument cluster won't power up. Hopefully you don't fry the ECU with your jumper in the process.

I will tell you that if you're popping fuses then you have a grounding issue that is shorting out the wiring. The first thing to check would be to verify you have a solid and firm frame ground and that the lug is tight. That can loosen sometimes and cause issues if it's not secure. Beyond that, you'd have to start tracing wiring to find a shorted or loose wire/pin in the circuit. The joint connectors would be the second place to check.

Here is the electrical circuit from the service manual.
445781
 
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