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Discussion Starter #1
Just got back from deals gap while there the clutch started slipping in the higher rpm's 8k and up. I havent had a chance to ride since I got back to really see what it is doing. When it started I took it easy and got it back to the trailer. The bike only has 6000 mi on it and I think it is a little premature for the clutch to need replacing. Is this something that can be adjusted or do I need to go ahead and order a new clutch and if so what brand is the best deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
had a chance to check freeplay in clutch. it was a little tight, after adjusting it i took it for a short ride and it did not slip. i will have to wait for the weekend to really test it out. i understand that it will slip more when the oil is hot and i didn't get it up to operating temp. can anyone tell me how far and hard i should ride it to give it a good test to see if it is going to slip.
 

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If the fiction plate are going out,it won't take long to find out.Get it up to operating temps and pour the power on.
If it is slipping stop riding it,so maybe you can at least save the metal plates.
General consensus on this board has been the stock friction plates are the best.
 

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Hi i seen your post last night and no one got back to u.Im not a clutch pro but u could try doing a search for what u want
 

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Discussion Starter #5
which brand

I have looked at a couple of different brands and I was leaning towards EBC does anyone have some good advice on which brand stock clutch to go with?
 

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Like I said The factory Kawasaki friction plates have been proven to be the best on the ZX10R clutch.
 

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had a chance to check freeplay in clutch. it was a little tight, after adjusting it i took it for a short ride and it did not slip. i will have to wait for the weekend to really test it out. i understand that it will slip more when the oil is hot and i didn't get it up to operating temp. can anyone tell me how far and hard i should ride it to give it a good test to see if it is going to slip.
your on the right track to test before checking out the clutch, if you installed after market levers your adjustment may be even more off...do the adjustment by the manual at the Clutch Basket down low then to the free play at the lever. I had that problem and it does make a difference. At one time I thought the clutch was out because like you if you hit it hard over a certain RPM it would slip....then went home and did the adjustment and went thousands of miles before it REALLY went out and replaced my Clutch.:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I hope I have a few thousand more miles left on the clutch. Thanks for the feedback. On the factory clutch is there a good online dealer I can order an oem clutch from, my dealer thinks the parts they sale are made out of gold.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had a chance to test the clutch out a little better this evening. I rode it about 15 miles and got it up in the 8k+ rpm range in 5th gear and it didn't offer to slip. I will probably be able to take it for a long ride Sunday afternoon. I've only had the 10 since Jan. I graduated from zx7r and frankly it is hard to find a place around here where I'm comfortable opening this bike up, its wicked fast.
 

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I have looked at a couple of different brands and I was leaning towards EBC does anyone have some good advice on which brand stock clutch to go with?
Mine went out 2000 miles ago, and I replaced them with EBC. Been good so far but I don't hammer on her either. I reused my steels, just cleaned them up. Vonstallin on this board has an excellent write up on how to do the change.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's definite

It is definite, I will have to replace the clutch. I took the bike out for a longer ride today and after about 40 miles it started slipping and kept getting worse. I brought it home and now it is up on the stand and I am looking for an oem clutch to order.
 

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It is definite, I will have to replace the clutch. I took the bike out for a longer ride today and after about 40 miles it started slipping and kept getting worse. I brought it home and now it is up on the stand and I am looking for an oem clutch to order.
http://www.ronayers.com/...we use to have a sponsor that sold some plates almost the same as OEM plates but were just a little different(uses the same front and back special plates in the whole pack...the OEM has them only in front and back and wider pads in the middle....they seem strong so far but it has not been time tested by me yet.....go OEM if not sure....don't think you need the special double spring plate just rough it up a little with sand paper. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
just ordered some ebc clutch friction plates. had a friend use some in his gixxer and so far so good. i'm going to reuse the rest of the parts unless i find something really wore out, thanks for the advice. going to use vonstalins post on clutch replacement for guide plus i have kawi shop manual for the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Blue Steels

I got the friction plates in today and tore into the clutch and the steels are blued and the clutch hub is scarred up. Can I sand the hub with some fine sand paper or should I replace it.
 

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Soak your EBC's in oil for a whole day, by the "hub" do you mean the friction face or the basket, if the friction face is scarred then it will need either machining or replacing , measure your stack height and get it right first time.

And remember , if the clutch was fried that early then it is rider induced, either style or bad adjustment.
 

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If your saying the fingers on your clutch basket(where the friction plates set in) are notched.Then the answer is no your better off replacing the basket.You can file these, but that only gives your friction plates more play to notch the basket again .If you don't repair or replace the basket the clutch will not want to completely disengage when you come to a stop.So when you have the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in,the bike will want to creep forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
the clutch hub that is on the transmission side has grooves in it. this would be the last friction surface you would see when removing the friction plates and steels. the torque limiter is bolted to it and the manual calls it the clutch hub. I bought the bike with 5k on it in jan. and the previos owner said he had run it on the strip so that would explain the situation. either way I was wondering if could sand the grooves or just replace the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
friction plates

the friction plates in the ebc pack are all the same size and the old ones appear to all be the same but the microfiche shows 8 with the same part# and 2 with the same part# oem. is there a difference or does it matter
 

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the friction plates in the ebc pack are all the same size and the old ones appear to all be the same but the microfiche shows 8 with the same part# and 2 with the same part# oem. is there a difference or does it matter
Most aftermarket paks use the same size...the one's I bought used the 2 front and back which had smaller contact pads and that was used throughout the Pak... Then the Barnett apears to use only the Large contact pads through out the pak. I think Kawi must have known something to use the smaller pads in front and back with larger ones in the middle...It's to late for you now to change to OEM but no worries with them all being the same. :wink:
 
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