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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, my name is Kristofer and i received a basket case of a bike. I have a 2005 Ninja Zx10r. Previous owner said the clutch wasn’t grabbing and told me it was bc the clutch push rod he had installed is a nut hair too long. Fast forward 3 days i ordered a “genuine oem” pushrod from ebay. The new rod doesn’t slide it, it’ll sit in the hole but won’t budge. Please help bc this is all i have left to get this pos on the road lol
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Welcome to the forum, presuming the clutch height has been measured and it is assembled correctly, the Rod is the same through all the generations so we can assume it is the correct part but maybe it isn't a genuine part and a "chineses" knock off, do you have the original kawasaki packaging with it? Other than that is there something inside the drive shaft stopping the rod getting fully homed? Also has the drive shaft lost round or bent? The pictures you posted up don't offer any other explanation, what's the history of the bike?? How and why did he come to fit a new Rod?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey guys thank you for the quick response, it came in kawasaki packaging and it says made in japan. He said his clutch started to not grab and a mechanic told him it was the push rod, he bought a chinese one and it fits in as pictured, but the oem replacement isn’t fitting. I’ll get to it later today and open it back up to check. How will i know if the drive shaft is bent or lost its round? Is it a simple job to do?
 

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How sure are you that the post/puller clutch engagement thing is installed correctly?

Also, do you have a service manual? Have you done this before or just kind of guessing how it goes together?

Easiest way to check if it's bent is to roll it on a flat surface and watch for wobble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How sure are you that the post/puller clutch engagement thing is installed correctly?

Also, do you have a service manual? Have you done this before or just kind of guessing how it goes together?

Easiest way to check if it's bent is to roll it on a flat surface and watch for wobble.
this is my first go, all i did was take the cover off, take off the spring screws and remove that metal face plate and pulled out the rod. Didn’t do anything else
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I’m guessing i need to remove the nut to take off the whole basket itself and the drive shaft just pulls out? I need to get a manual
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the help. Still haven’t had the chance to open it back up but from gathered from a quick glance at the clutch section in the manual, it looks like there’s supposed to be a spring that goes on the release shaft and there’s not on in the cover anywhere
 

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Thanks for the help. Still haven’t had the chance to open it back up but from gathered from a quick glance at the clutch section in the manual, it looks like there’s supposed to be a spring that goes on the release shaft and there’s not on in the cover anywhere
Yes the small spring on the outside wouldn't give you the big problem you have, presuming it is assembled correctly and the release shaft is properly seated on the rod, you should get some feel "movement" when you pull the clutch lever?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When i had it all hooked up to the old one, I’ll pull the clutch lever and the release rod kinda skips over the push rod, it’ll catch for a split second and then slip off. Clutch lever doesn’t return back to the front, just stays right on the grip. Then I’ll have to re do everything
 

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When i had it all hooked up to the old one, I’ll pull the clutch lever and the release rod kinda skips over the push rod, it’ll catch for a split second and then slip off. Clutch lever doesn’t return back to the front, just stays right on the grip. Then I’ll have to re do everything
So the release lever as you call it does pull the rod out, well we need a picture of the inside of the clutch cover it should be engaging, if we can see marks and or damage too the arm we can work out what's not happening! Was it doing the same before you replaced the rod?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just bought the bike. Paid 700$ for it, needs a fair amount of work, mainly cosmetics but a few mechanical issues, bike starts up from cold just fine and idles smooth. Im talking about the rod that the clutch cable hooks up to that sticks out the top of the clutch cover. That part will catch momentarily then slip off the rod that sits in the middle of the clutch basket itself
 

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Mate even if you spend 500 bucks on this you've a great machine for the cost of a mad chemical infused weekend.. as Michael says need pics inside of the cover..

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

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I just bought the bike. Paid 700$ for it, needs a fair amount of work, mainly cosmetics but a few mechanical issues, bike starts up from cold just fine and idles smooth. Im talking about the rod that the clutch cable hooks up to that sticks out the top of the clutch cover. That part will catch momentarily then slip off the rod that sits in the middle of the clutch basket itself
Welcome to the party!

Couple things are suspect with this whole deal. The puller pin you're trying to install should go in the behind the main plate like you show in the image. It's a tight slip fit though. Have you smeared some engine oil on it first? Have you spun it around and wiggled it while trying to push it in? That's usually the trick. The standard "Rules to Live By" apply here - you never go in dry. :cool:

What is confusing is the engagement rod that attaches to the clutch cable should've been the first thing you replaced. A bike that old typically wears the groove in it that is supposed to catch on the puller rod there. If it's mixing the external return spring, that should give you an indication that there is something with that. I'm not sure how the previous owner figured out the pusher rod was "too long" and that's the reason the clutch isn't releasing. You should replace the those parts as well.

Clutch release arm part number: 13102-0012
Clutch release arm spring part number: 92145-0194

And NO, if the shaft is bent or wallowed out it's not easy to replace. The puller rod fits into the transmission input shaft. If that needs to be replaced, you have to take the motor out of the frame, split the lower crankcase apart, then remove the input and output shafts along with all the constant mesh gear pairs to replace replace that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sky dork, i really hope it’s just the release rod and spring lol thanks for the links and long write up, you da man
 

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Also whats a good website to order from? I got the oem push rod from ebay
Any site that can get you OEM Kawi parts will work. I like Ron Ayers myself. Or Honda East Toledo is another good one. The online diagrams are are good for finding the parts you're looking for.

 
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