Do you have adjustable levers? I noticed if I have mine too close to the bar my clutch drags. I also can't start it in gear with the clutch pulled , because it's not making the switch.
good thinking but no, stock levers still. thats a post wreak rebuild purchase for me but luckily haven't laid it down yetDo you have adjustable levers? I noticed if I have mine too close to the bar my clutch drags. I also can't start it in gear with the clutch pulled , because it's not making the switch.
The life expectancy of the stock clutch is from 50 to 50,000 miles. :wink: It depends completely on how the bike is used. It could get torn to shit at the strip in a few passes, or last the life of the bike. There's no real expectation for the life.SKYDORK, thanks for the reply!
you are correct, 3mm from lever to perch of freeplay. the bike is mainly used on the street with an occasional track day. the lever does touch the clip-on when pulled. it does operate smoothly, however it is a little stiff in my mind, at a long light i can feel my hand cramp up but not overly hard to pull. the cable is has no frays and looks good, i cleaned it last week. the bike has had aimsoil 10w40 at regular intervals since break in and the last one was just about 1000mi ago. I've checked everything you mentioned except pulling the actuator shaft... i thought i had to remove the clutch cover for that... ill have to look into that, and when i get some more oil ill pull the clutch cover and inspect the pusher.
what is the life expectancy for the stock clutch? and what parts do you think i should have on hand prior to removing the cover. thanks for your recommendations.
i used to do the same sitting at lights until i was rear ended on my last bike. the second it takes to put it in gear could have made a huge difference then.Both my g4's have at least 50k miles with oem clutch and no probs. I never sit at a light in gear. I never use the clutch unless coming to full stop. I do not know if what I do makes this clutch last but offer this anecdotal for reference.
i pulled the actuator out and i think we may have a winner!!! there is a little chip off the corner, I'm taking less than a millimeter. it was difficult capturing it in a photo but you can really see it in the shadow. so i figured i would just take everything apart and get all the parts as needed and the pusher also has some burring/splintering where the actuator and pusher meet. since i had the pressure plate off i figured i would look at the plates also. i noticed that the plates and steels stuck together when i was removing them and there was what i would call "sludge" buildup on them, is this normal?The life expectancy of the stock clutch is from 50 to 50,000 miles. :wink: It depends completely on how the bike is used. It could get torn to shit at the strip in a few passes, or last the life of the bike. There's no real expectation for the life.
The actuator shaft will pull straight out the case without removing the cover. You should inspect the curved groove for abnormal wear, burring, or bending.
And since this is a cassette transmission, you can leave the bike on the sidestand, remove the clutch cover, and you won't lose a drop of oil since the clutch and transmission are well above the sump. The only thing you would need to have on-hand when doing that is the clutch cover gasket.
i gave all the plates a good wipe down and measured all the friction plates and steels and checked them for warping aside from some blueing they're all in spec. i slapped it back together and she doesn't move on her own anymore. my guess is the chipped actuator/puller caused a few of the plates to heat up and cooked some oil.If it's in your budget,since you got it apart replace it all.Thats what I'd do anyway.
Yes, there shouldn't be any build up on the plates at all. But your assessment is what I would guess as well.i gave all the plates a good wipe down and measured all the friction plates and steels and checked them for warping aside from some blueing they're all in spec. i slapped it back together and she doesn't move on her own anymore. my guess is the chipped actuator/puller caused a few of the plates to heat up and cooked some oil.
i think ill just replace the actuator, puller and gasket for now. any recommendations other than the stealership to get parts?
thanks again to all that chimed in!!!ccasion1
The clutch itself is considered a consumable, just like brake pads, chain, tires, etc. Those parts wouldn't be covered even under the normal warranty. Depending on how good your relationship is with the local dealer, you may or may not get the rod and pusher covered. But it's more than likely they'll claim that the clutch pack is wore out and that's why the other parts are going bad. The warranty only covers "manufacturing defects", remember, not parts that wear out from time or use.any chance this is covered by kawasakis extended warranty? if so how close to stock do i need to make the bike before bringing it in?
Depends on the noise. Especially if you have your ear near it. Define loud? Define what noise it's making?Speaking of clutch's, I have noticed mine is quite loud. If I place my ear close to the clutch cover I notice a noise, even when in neutral. Any ideas?