[1st 2013 on island]

Hey guys, I've noticed recently that my clutch doesn't seem to fully disengage when the lever is pulled. I've checked the cable adjustments and have about 3mm of free play at the end of the lever. i can feel the take up at about 75% of travel that the clutch fully engages and doesn't slip anymore. However, when sitting still in first gear with the lever all the way in i have to keep pressure on the brakes or she goes on her own... even on a slight incline. i haven't ever worked on a motorcycle clutch before but I've watched a bunch of you've videos. could i have warped one of the plates causing it to drag somehow?

the bike has 13.5Kmiles, stock clutch, and full synthetic since break in. any help is appreciated!!!!!

Figured i had to attach a pic since its been so long.:dontknow:

 

[clutchcrusader]

Do you have adjustable levers? I noticed if I have mine too close to the bar my clutch drags. I also can't start it in gear with the clutch pulled , because it's not making the switch.

 

[1st 2013 on island]

Do you have adjustable levers? I noticed if I have mine too close to the bar my clutch drags. I also can't start it in gear with the clutch pulled , because it's not making the switch.

good thinking but no, stock levers still. thats a post wreak rebuild purchase for me but luckily haven't laid it down yet

 

[1st 2013 on island]

:bump:

 

[SkyDork]

My first thought was the aftermarket levers, but since they're stock, that doesn't explain it.

It could be a warped plate in the clutch, but that's not usual.

You say your 3mm freeplay is measured "at the end of the lever". So I'm assuming you mean the space in between the clutch lever and the perch, correct? If you can fit a nickel sideways in between the lever and the perch before the clutch starts to disengage, then the freeplay is correct. If you're measuring freeplay from the ball end of the lever, that's not right.

Does the lever go fully against the clip-on when pulled? What type/weight oil are you using? Is the lever smooth and easy to pull? Is the clutch cable frayed at the ends at all where it connects to the lever? Is the cable routed properly? What other maintenance has been done to the bike and what's its use? Street, track, strip, etc?

First things I would verify is the freeplay, cable condition and routing, and then pull out the actuator shaft from the case to see if it's worn/damaged at all that's not providing full throw to the clutch pusher. Aside from those external checks you can do, you're going to have to take the clutch cover off and check the condition of the pusher itself. I suspect one of those parts is worn out as opposed to a warped clutch plate.

 

[1st 2013 on island]

SKYDORK, thanks for the reply!
you are correct, 3mm from lever to perch of freeplay. the bike is mainly used on the street with an occasional track day. the lever does touch the clip-on when pulled. it does operate smoothly, however it is a little stiff in my mind, at a long light i can feel my hand cramp up but not overly hard to pull. the cable is has no frays and looks good, i cleaned it last week. the bike has had aimsoil 10w40 at regular intervals since break in and the last one was just about 1000mi ago. I've checked everything you mentioned except pulling the actuator shaft... i thought i had to remove the clutch cover for that... ill have to look into that, and when i get some more oil ill pull the clutch cover and inspect the pusher.

EDIT: can i remove the clutch cover without draining the oil? i was looking at the service manual ad just realized it doesn't mention anything about it.

what is the life expectancy for the stock clutch? and what parts do you think i should have on hand prior to removing the cover. thanks for your recommendations.

 

[SkyDork]

SKYDORK, thanks for the reply!
you are correct, 3mm from lever to perch of freeplay. the bike is mainly used on the street with an occasional track day. the lever does touch the clip-on when pulled. it does operate smoothly, however it is a little stiff in my mind, at a long light i can feel my hand cramp up but not overly hard to pull. the cable is has no frays and looks good, i cleaned it last week. the bike has had aimsoil 10w40 at regular intervals since break in and the last one was just about 1000mi ago. I've checked everything you mentioned except pulling the actuator shaft... i thought i had to remove the clutch cover for that... ill have to look into that, and when i get some more oil ill pull the clutch cover and inspect the pusher.

what is the life expectancy for the stock clutch? and what parts do you think i should have on hand prior to removing the cover. thanks for your recommendations.

The life expectancy of the stock clutch is from 50 to 50,000 miles. :wink: It depends completely on how the bike is used. It could get torn to shit at the strip in a few passes, or last the life of the bike. There's no real expectation for the life.

The actuator shaft will pull straight out the case without removing the cover. You should inspect the curved groove for abnormal wear, burring, or bending.

And since this is a cassette transmission, you can leave the bike on the sidestand, remove the clutch cover, and you won't lose a drop of oil since the clutch and transmission are well above the sump. The only thing you would need to have on-hand when doing that is the clutch cover gasket.

 

[1st 2013 on island]

sounds good, looks like i know what I'm doing when i get off work

 

[scout]

Both my g4's have at least 50k miles with oem clutch and no probs. I never sit at a light in gear. I never use the clutch unless coming to full stop. I do not know if what I do makes this clutch last but offer this anecdotal for reference.

 

[1st 2013 on island]

Both my g4's have at least 50k miles with oem clutch and no probs. I never sit at a light in gear. I never use the clutch unless coming to full stop. I do not know if what I do makes this clutch last but offer this anecdotal for reference.

i used to do the same sitting at lights until i was rear ended on my last bike. the second it takes to put it in gear could have made a huge difference then.

The life expectancy of the stock clutch is from 50 to 50,000 miles. :wink: It depends completely on how the bike is used. It could get torn to shit at the strip in a few passes, or last the life of the bike. There's no real expectation for the life.

The actuator shaft will pull straight out the case without removing the cover. You should inspect the curved groove for abnormal wear, burring, or bending.

And since this is a cassette transmission, you can leave the bike on the sidestand, remove the clutch cover, and you won't lose a drop of oil since the clutch and transmission are well above the sump. The only thing you would need to have on-hand when doing that is the clutch cover gasket.

i pulled the actuator out and i think we may have a winner!!! there is a little chip off the corner, I'm taking less than a millimeter. it was difficult capturing it in a photo but you can really see it in the shadow. so i figured i would just take everything apart and get all the parts as needed and the pusher also has some burring/splintering where the actuator and pusher meet. since i had the pressure plate off i figured i would look at the plates also. i noticed that the plates and steels stuck together when i was removing them and there was what i would call "sludge" buildup on them, is this normal?

 

[clutchcrusader]

If it's in your budget,since you got it apart replace it all.Thats what I'd do anyway.

 

[1st 2013 on island]

If it's in your budget,since you got it apart replace it all.Thats what I'd do anyway.

i gave all the plates a good wipe down and measured all the friction plates and steels and checked them for warping aside from some blueing they're all in spec. i slapped it back together and she doesn't move on her own anymore. my guess is the chipped actuator/puller caused a few of the plates to heat up and cooked some oil.

i think ill just replace the actuator, puller and gasket for now. any recommendations other than the stealership to get parts?

thanks again to all that chimed in!!!ccasion1

 

[SkyDork]

i gave all the plates a good wipe down and measured all the friction plates and steels and checked them for warping aside from some blueing they're all in spec. i slapped it back together and she doesn't move on her own anymore. my guess is the chipped actuator/puller caused a few of the plates to heat up and cooked some oil.

i think ill just replace the actuator, puller and gasket for now. any recommendations other than the stealership to get parts?

thanks again to all that chimed in!!!ccasion1

Yes, there shouldn't be any build up on the plates at all. But your assessment is what I would guess as well.

No need to replace the plates if they measure good. Get the parts you mentioned and get back to riding.

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Or the dealership for your OEM parts needs.

 

[dricked]

Those plates look really rough. By moving/cleaning them you may have extended the life a bit but even with plates that measure good, if they're burnt up, like yours appear to be, it's time to replace them. Also be sure to check your lever freeplay when the bike is hot. These bikes seem to loose slack when hot and that will burn your clutch out.

 

[1st 2013 on island]

any chance this is covered by kawasakis extended warranty? if so how close to stock do i need to make the bike before bringing it in?

 

[SkyDork]

any chance this is covered by kawasakis extended warranty? if so how close to stock do i need to make the bike before bringing it in?

The clutch itself is considered a consumable, just like brake pads, chain, tires, etc. Those parts wouldn't be covered even under the normal warranty. Depending on how good your relationship is with the local dealer, you may or may not get the rod and pusher covered. But it's more than likely they'll claim that the clutch pack is wore out and that's why the other parts are going bad. The warranty only covers "manufacturing defects", remember, not parts that wear out from time or use.

 

[Skyexile]

Speaking of clutch's, I have noticed mine is quite loud. If I place my ear close to the clutch cover I notice a noise, even when in neutral. Any ideas?

 

[SkyDork]

Speaking of clutch's, I have noticed mine is quite loud. If I place my ear close to the clutch cover I notice a noise, even when in neutral. Any ideas?

Depends on the noise. Especially if you have your ear near it. Define loud? Define what noise it's making?

 

[andrewinbriz]

My clutch doesn't disengage immediately when the lever is pulled in. Freeplay is correct, cable is lubed. So I'd say I've got sticking plates. Bike is a 2014 with 8000 klm. But was a demonstrator, I got it with 2000 klm, so I suspect a bit of early clutch abuse. I've bought replacement plates and springs, and will fit over my christmas holidays. I will inspect and clean the old plates, but will only keep them to use in an emergency. Better if possible to just replace all plates, and I will have a good look while I'm in there.
Yes, you'd need to define better the "noise". If you've heard a ducati dry clutch with open cover and shagged basket, that's a "noise"! If I heard that level of noise with a wet clutch I'd park the bike. I suspect it's not like that tho.

 

[Skyexile]

Hi guys, thanks for the replies. I have video footage to show you the sound I am hearing. The bike is at 11000km which is 1000km away from its first major service. I noticed the clutch cable is dry (no lube on it), but the bike seems to ride fine, however I am not riding it until I work out what is the issue. I have been told this bike has a loud clutch basket, but mine seems louder than usual.

This is from a cold start. Listen past the exhaust noise and you will hear what I am talking about. Sounds like a rattle.