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Squid
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys my clutch just went out today I seen a good how to on a clutch swap but what I am wondering is what is the best clutch to use I am kinda broke right now so I want to keep it cheap if I can but it is going on the crdit card so it's not that big of a deal, I have a gen 1 with 17,000 miles and I don't race or do track days just rip up the streets! Anyways thanks for any help also if ya know a good cheap place to get them that would be cool I would like to get it this week as I would like to get as much riding in as posible before winter hits:badteeth::eek:ccasion1
 

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MIdlife PIMP
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3,459 Posts
I've always heard to go OEM with clutch components,.............unless you have a specific need for an upgraded slipper or lock up!
But if you are just wanting perf riding on the street,........OEM
 

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MIdlife PIMP
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Would that also be the cheapest route?
Probably,.....check out RonAyers or Superbike Supply.....

if you do go with something like Barnett or others,........only use every other spring,.the springs they send,.I have heard,.....are way too stiff!!........just what I have heard!
 

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Squid
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok here's another question for ya I called a couple local dealers and the first one just told me $380 for the disks ans springs and the other told me $14.70 per plate and told me I would have to measure them out and figure out what I needed. So does anybody know part numbers or exactly what I need or sizes or better prices so I can order I want to get this done asap since I live in Minnesota I only have a month or two to ride
 

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burnt my clutch up @ around 6500mi, drag racing, ordered an oem one from ron ayres for about $200 steels and friction disks, installed it myself now I got 18000 mi and still going strong. I eased up on the drag racing though.
 

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Squid
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
burnt my clutch up @ around 6500mi, drag racing, ordered an oem one from ron ayres for about $200 steels and friction disks, installed it myself now I got 18000 mi and still going strong. I eased up on the drag racing though.
That's a good price I'll have to check em out I do plan on instaling it myself. Was that a kit or did you have to but the plates seperate? And if so how many plates? Just curious on what to order:eek:ccasion1
 

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If you are on a budget get a KG Factory Clutch Kit. They are the same company that makes a majority of OEM clutch components. But get the frictions and steel only. Spend the money and get the OEM springs so your lever feel will be almost the same. Don't forget if you are going to do it yourself measure the clutch stack upon removal and upon installation get the closest combination to the measured stack.

What I don't understand is I have 40K miles on my bike with about 15K track miles and still running stock clutch. You guys should really check your clutch adjustments and make sure your clutch is completely disengaging. That can lead to premature clutch wear.
 

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Aftermarket springs tend to be a little stiffer. The benefit (at least in theory) is better disengagement of the clutch. If you're hard on the gas this could help. The stiffer the springs the harder the clutch pull will be, but unless you have tiny little girl muscles this should be irrelevant.

Clutch stack height is important, but I wouldn't base the proper thickness on a worn out clutch. Hopefully your new fibers will be thicker than the trash you are replacing. If you are concerned, you can measure all the steels (they come in multiple thickness, you'll need a caliper or micrometer) and ensure you replace with same. Most if not all will be the same. You can also fine tune the slipper using different steels.

If you are on a budget, you may be able to reuse your steels. Clean them up and inspect to confirm. I always replace with new fibers, but I have seen good steels when fibers were shot.

Make sure you install all the steels the same direction. One edge is smooth (rounded), the other square.

Soak your fibers in oil before install. I do it overnight, but an hour or so should do it if you are in a hurry. Use the same oil (clean) that will go in the bike. I use those big aluminum pans for baking. Some foil over the top and you can save it for reuse.

Nothing wrong with OEM. The major aftermarket players are good as well and can sometimes be had relatively cheap via ebay.
 

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That's a good price I'll have to check em out I do plan on instaling it myself. Was that a kit or did you have to but the plates seperate? And if so how many plates? Just curious on what to order:eek:ccasion1
I have a factory service manual but dont have time to get it right now, gotta get to work, but will check specs later if you want. I think I had 9 steels and 10 friction disks. 2 friction were a different thickness than the others. My steels were fried. I used the microfiche @ ron ayres .com for part # and ordered just the disks, steels, and cover gasket. I did have to pull my flywheel and clean it up because it was scored up a little. 12k mi on it and still going strong. Only 2 test and tunes "drag strip" on it though. Make sure you measure your stack height and make sure you note the different size and placement of steels and disks when you disassemble your clutch.
 

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Squid
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
im just kinda confused on what to order i would like to just run down to my local parts store cuz they have everything in stock and i could do it today.. you said pull the flywheel will i a puller for that im assuming?
 

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You should not have to pull your basket or flywheel, I noticed that mine was a little scored so I pulled it which I had to put it in gear and lock down the back brake and use an impact to break the nut loose. To the best of my recollection it just came off. You should only have to remove your pressure plate, steels and friction disks. There is a great how to thread in this section with pics and step by step instruction, it helped me out when I did mine.
 

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There are 3 part numbers for the steel plates. If you are changing them, you must measure them and order the same. I attach the page from the manual.
 

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Squid
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
There are 3 part numbers for the steel plates. If you are changing them, you must measure them and order the same. I attach the page from the manual.
Thanks I can't open it right now probobly cuz I'm on an iPhone, I think I'm just going to replace the fibers unless I get in there and the steels also need replacing. Now all the partstore can tell me is that I need 10 fibers but no sizes or differances between them but on the how-to on this site it shows- is it 1 or 2 fibers smaller?? All I'm trying to do here is order some fibers so I can get them installed before winter, I would like a few more rides but nobody on this site, or my parts store, or even the kawi dealerships can tell me how many what size part numbers? So this is becoming a little frustrating if ya know what I mean! But thanks for any help I just want to get back on the road!!!
 

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Squid
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
can i just change out the fibers?? and if i do that can i use aftermarket fibers with oem plates?? thanks for any help
 
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