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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #1
How are you measuring your stack height? :popcorn:
 

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Speed Freak
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I think you either measure the plates friction alone or maybe friction and steel together.... should be in the manual.... I'll look
 

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Speed Freak
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just some OEM stack height specs for ya, don't know if u have the manual or not.

stack height = 53.6mm or 2.11 inches
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #6
I think you either measure the plates friction alone or maybe friction and steel together.... should be in the manual.... I'll look
No, I have the manual it states what the height should be but not to check it only individual plates and total. The reason I ask is I read on another internet site how critical for slipper clutches that the height should be 1mm more from base plate to pressure plate.

I have mine coming soon. Will the base plate and hub just pull out so I can take that measurement? I have a special depth measure digital guage to take another measurement with the plates in.
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #7

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #8
Another reason I am being so anal and leaning toward that article is because I ordered a aftermarket clutch pack from Cycle Concepts and not sure if there is height differences from OEM, the only OEM part will be the spring plate as that's not included but most likely ok and I can scuff it up a bit and clean.

bloo
 

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Speed Freak
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ahhh got ya, yeah those measurements were the entire clutch pack fibers and steels..... I replaced my clutch after my hyperplate aluminums went south on me from launching to hard but i got all oem stuff and just put it in and didnt measure stack height.... opps :-/
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #11
Yes sir , 1.0-1.2 mm would be good.

Took out my Plates today. As you can see next to the clean egg carton there is some burnt Toast. :crackup: I don’t know how I did 10sec. flat last weekend with these clutches because the clutches were slipping on the way home if you hit it hard after 6Krpms :dontknow: The few measurements I took so far on plates were out of specs. :dontknow:







Back on topic, I did a measurement with the stack in place before the pressure plate was taken off @ 5.08mm and with all the plates out @ 3.80mm for a difference of 1.28.

So when my plates come in tomorrow I will set a difference of 1.1-1.2 and hope that’s the ticket. :mrgreen:
 

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Registered
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In the 04-05 10R the clutch stack height works best at 53.3-53.6mm. :thumbsup: You take that measurement with all the steels and fibers.
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #13
In the 04-05 10R the clutch stack height works best at 53.3-53.6mm. :thumbsup: You take that measurement with all the steels and fibers.
yeah gotcha on that one RR, I was trying to see if you read that article in the beginning of this thread(link) how you should measure with a slipper-clutch. I did measure what came out just now and it's just under 53.mm. I will measure both ways before I put in though. :wink: :thumbsup:
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Well I put the Clutch Pack in today from Cycle Concepts a site Sponsor.

The friction Plates look like the OEM, exactly like the Special Plates for OEM that are in the front and back of the pack in fact I have no doubt they are from the same manufacturer as they have the same type of Stamping on them and even bought from my Kawi dealer those 2 plates just encase I didn’t like what came in….needless to say I used my test run for a trip back to the Kawi dealer to return them :wink:

So I measured the stack dry and it came to 53.6 exactly what the OEM calls out for.

The thing I did not get was a 1.2mm difference without plates and then with plates after installed. I got a ~ 1.8mm difference(maybe something to do with the soaked Oil plates :dontknow: ) but I don’t believe that will have any effect on the slipper clutch operation for the OEM slipper is most likely is 2mm diff. anyway when engaged.

So after my test run all I got to say is SOAK YOUR FRICTION PLATES. The bike shifts 100 times better than when I bought the bike NEW!!!!!. It shifts like butter you can barely feel it engage :thumbsup:
Now for my next test at the Drag Strip to go get that elusive 9s pass, no more excuses like my clutch is failing or my weight if I can do a 10.01s & back it up with a 10.07s pass with an ailing clutch this should be the ticket :thumbsup:

PS…I took some pictures and when I get them together I am going to add some new information that gladding24 did not state in his “How To” and miss information on how the orientation of the pressure plate is installed. I will give a brief description here:

The Steel plate teeth have a beveled side OEM or Cycle Concept Steels. The beveled side teeth should be facing in toward the Engine(that’s how the OEMs were installed). Also, gladding said “the hub has tabs on the inside of the pressure that have to align with the back torque limiter spring tabs in the bottom of the basket”…..those springs have nothing to do with orientation, It’s the inner hub itself that has the splines and there are 2 splines 180degrees out and recessed/cut/lower than the other splines . The pressure plate has 2 tabs that fit right into those spots and can’t fit in any other area, and that’s how you know the pressure plate is in the only place it could be.

Bloo
 

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Bloo Moderator
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Discussion Starter #18
Good information, good post. Keep the info.coming. Thanks bluedevil!
Ok, here is some new info.....after I installed the clutch plates I kept getting to much slack in the cables up front and causing engaging problems after riding it a bit in 1st then going to neutral gears and back and down shifting. So yesterday when it was really bad I adjusted the lower mechanism at the clutch hub when it was HOT(not cold this time) as there was a lot of slack to be taken out....and did a ride today and seems to have worked but not sure it was a cool day. I need more testing and some drag runs to see if the bike is applying power like it did before and not slipping.:dontknow: but todays test seems to show some promise. :wink:
 
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