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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a new RK chain to replace my stock chain and now have decided to come down a tooth on the front sprocket. Do I need another chain or do I remove a link from the new RK chain? Is it safe to remove a link from the chain? I can also return the RK chain for a shorter one if that is the best way.

Do you recommend just the front sprocket be changed or both front and rear? I am looking for a minimal gear change.

Mark
 

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VegasZX10R said:
I bought a new RK chain to replace my stock chain and now have decided to come down a tooth on the front sprocket. Do I need another chain or do I remove a link from the new RK chain? Is it safe to remove a link from the chain? I can also return the RK chain for a shorter one if that is the best way.

Do you recommend just the front sprocket be changed or both front and rear? I am looking for a minimal gear change.

Mark
if you just go -1 in the front you dont need to do anything to the chain.if you have alot of mile on the sprockets i would change both sprockets and chain. :eek:ccasion1
 

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never change the chain and not the sprockets.. as for the number of links..
that is personal preference. If you go with a 16 you will gain a little wheelbase over the stock set-up. if you remove one link it will be similar to stock but thats not factoring in that the old chain had surely stretched at least a little. so I would guess that with a new chain and 16/39 gear you would be at about the same wheelbase as your old chain and sprocket set-up.
 

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VegasZX10R said:
I bought a new RK chain to replace my stock chain and now have decided to come down a tooth on the front sprocket. Do I need another chain or do I remove a link from the new RK chain? Is it safe to remove a link from the chain? I can also return the RK chain for a shorter one if that is the best way.

Do you recommend just the front sprocket be changed or both front and rear? I am looking for a minimal gear change.

Mark
If the new chain is 110L you'll have no problem with a 16t, it will add 3-4mm to the wheelbase over the OEM 17/39 when it was new.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK help me with a perfect setup. What size RK chain and what sprocket sizes front and back???

Just want a tooth or so reduction.
 

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VegasZX10R said:
OK help me with a perfect setup..
No such thing. Many, many choices. Personally for my wieght and riding style I like 17/41. It's not as low as 16/39 and doesn't make the chain make as tight a turn in front. As for chain brands, I defer to BD.
 

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VegasZX10R said:
OK help me with a perfect setup. What size RK chain and what sprocket sizes front and back???

Just want a tooth or so reduction.
520. go -1 in the front and keep the back stock.you should be happy with that
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So am I better off going larger in the back and keeping the front stock size?
 

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VegasZX10R said:
OK help me with a perfect setup. What size RK chain and what sprocket sizes front and back???

Just want a tooth or so reduction.
As Miykl mentiones theres no perfect setup but of the ones people have already mentioned will work. In your 1st post you wrote about having a new RK already so stick with that in a 525 size W/110L which will work with 17/39, 16/40, 16/39, 16/38.
If your inclined to try something a little diff then here ya go. Using an RK chain W/112L you can use 17/39, 17/40, 17/41, 16/39, 16/40, 16/41.

BUT of all the ones i've listed it sounds like a 17/41 or 16/39 would be the ticket.

BD
 

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VegasZX10R said:
So am I better off going larger in the back and keeping the front stock size?
its a toss up, both will do the job.

BD
 

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Big Daddy said:
If the new chain is 110L you'll have no problem with a 16t, it will add 3-4mm to the wheelbase over the OEM 17/39 when it was new.

BD
Just out of curiosity, is the gearing change mainly for hole shots and/or pulling more through the higher gears?

I'm in the process of swapping the stock setup for a DID 520 and AFAM 17/40, and must admit I'm not sure exactly what to expect... as the front-end comes up in the low gears rather easily with the O.E.M. 17/39.


**Also, keep in mind 99% of my riding is trying to escape bumper-to-bumper traffic, so I may be a little heavy on the throttle when I see an opportunity to break away from the pack. :bump:
 

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circusnuts
My preferance for using the 16/39 is based around my riding mainly street and an occassional trackday. While i enjoy high speed runs they are rare so the 16/39 is still able to reach 180 and still give some decent giddy up around town/freeways.
The 17/40 your considering using won't make a detectable diff however 17/41 or 16/39 would.

BD
 

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grego10r said:
you will not hit 180 whit 16/39 maybe 170 or less
wrong.

with a 15t cs and 39t rear you can hit 170 on radar with a 230lb guy on the 10!
 

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And...just my opinion...

you need much lower gearing on the track as opposed to the street.

Right now I have a 16t front, stock rear...

I have 9K mi on my chain and plan on making the 520 conversion...with a 16t front and 41r rear. I am confident Ill still be able to do an actuall 175 or so with it set up like that.

And with 9K on my stock chain, I dont think that I will have a problem with the smaller chain as long as I take care of it.
 

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Well Im not gonna argue with you...

And dont take offence, but just because you cant get the bike to do 180, or 170 doesn't mean someone else cant...

The situation I speak of the bike had race bodywork so perhaps its lighter than stock or more aerodynamic than stock...
 

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im not argueing but stock 10 whit 16/39 will not hit 180+ mph
i did go over 194+ whit my 12 whit gps to prove in a good Weather no wind
but when i went whit 17/46 on the 12 iwos hiting 178 182
and did you ever do it or you jost gesing pace
 
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