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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I got a request to record my exhaust sound. No problem at all. so I go down start bike let it warm up to 160* and gave short burst revs to 3k and on the fall of rpms I notice bike almost wants to shut off, Not like a stumble or stagger just rpms drop low and almost low enough to just cut off but revs bak up to normal and fine. then at 184* I rev to about 10k-12k and se strong as hell I turn the bike off and notice this is my coolant I believe its oil. I lean the bike upright and look through sight glass and notice no oil in sight glass after doing oil change 3 days ago with 3.3 quarts of Motorex 10w 40, what are your thoughts. no changes in riding, issues with performance, symptoms of anything out of order. I'm at 4k miles done oil changes at

55mi (oem recommended)
250mi (oem recommended)
500mi (oem recommended)
1500mi (oem recommended)
3890mi (motorex 10w40)

riding habits when cold started don't move or put in gear until 160* is on the coolant never above 7k rpms until at least 180* ridng around I'm in 6th gear around 6-8k, any high speed acceleration does not go to red line (14.1) shift light is set to flash at 13k, I shift around 12k when running friends I still shift at 12k never needed to push that higher usually walking them before 6th. Fuel is 91 octane tune flash is KRT base ecu map with von dyno fuelin
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Update went down while bike was cold and leaned it upright oil level is at half way of sight glass when I did the change it was at the top of the sight glass.
Also when running tune has fans come on at 185, cools down to 171 sometimes 176 not sure if this is headgasket don't think oil n coolant mixes at the headgasket I would get smoke but just thought I'd get opinions

another update or thought, I swapped the factory thermostat for the Graves 2.0 one noticed theres a white streak on the bottom left fairing paid no attention at first but its a lot there now as noted in bottom pic. thinking the graves thermostat is causing to much pressure and cause the lower radiator hose to push out coolant? thoughts
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
More than likely. You have to remember the OEM system is meant for OEM parts, when you introduce extra parts into the equation, it throws everything out of whack.

The OEM system is set to 1.1 bar if I recall correctly. This equates to roughly 16 PSI. The Graves cap increases it to 2.0 bar which equates to roughly 29 PSI. That is almost double what the OEM components are meant to used under. You're also (looking at the photos) running OEM lines and OEM clamps. The OEM rubber is prone to expand and the clamps aren't all that great when it comes to sealing.

I would (and I did because I swapped out for the 2.0 bar cap long ago) upgrade to the Samco silicone lines and hose clamps. Did all of that at the same time and zero issues.
I went and put the factory thermostat back on, with that being said is my engine good and safe? not sure where the murkiness comes from though this weekend I will flush and replace with engine ice. I also let it run to see how hot it would get I get up to 186 fans come on cools down to 171 consistent, but I do get a coolant drip from the location I have in the last picture.
 

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I went and put the factory thermostat back on, with that being said is my engine good and safe? not sure where the murkiness comes from though this weekend I will flush and replace with engine ice. I also let it run to see how hot it would get I get up to 186 fans come on cools down to 171 consistent, but I do get a coolant drip from the location I have in the last picture.
Why would your engine not be safe by running the oem coolant cap when its an oem system???

You would have to have a ported head, full system exhaust and a solid tune to be stressing the system out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Why would your engine not be safe by running the oem coolant cap when its an oem system???

You would have to have a ported head, full system exhaust and a solid tune to be stressing the system out.
Not safe as in running the stock rad cap, referring to the original post about the shit in my overflow tank, I may have found the issue with the radiator cap and coolant leak but wondering if I blew a headgasket or I guess worrying more then I should.
 

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the oem, clamps are not that good.

if your HG was blown (happened to me 2 times), one you would see bubbles in your reservoir or all of a sudden, it would go up and start puking...

I have thinner HG, and I run all stock, and the max I see in traffic is 197F, and goes to 195...
and when racing goes to 177F, Im talking full WOT 5th and 6th....

I just dont see the need to put a different rad cap.

clean your system and tighten your clamps
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the oem, clamps are not that good.

if your HG was blown (happened to me 2 times), one you would see bubbles in your reservoir or all of a sudden, it would go up and start puking...

I have thinner HG, and I run all stock, and the max I see in traffic is 197F, and goes to 195...
and when racing goes to 177F, Im talking full WOT 5th and 6th....

I just dont see the need to put a different rad cap.

clean your system and tighten your clamps
Do you have a gen5? How thin a head gasket did you go?ordered samco hoses flushing system soon as I get back from vegas. Is anyone running pure engine ice or water wetter? I usually do water wetter combo with water
 
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