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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I recently bought a 2011 Gen 4 and I am stoked to remove the cat underneath this bike. I currently have a leovince SBK titanium slip on and just bought a Laser midpipe.

My question would be, how harmfull could would it be to replace the cat with the midpipe without finetuning with e.g. PC? Would it damage the engine? The idea is to buy a PC in the beginning of next year due to my extreme incapabilities to save money.... :nerd:

I have been scavenging the internet for information but whatever I could find was quite different from each other answer. I know that each bike is different no matter what but the main question would be: If the bike wouldn't run as optimal as possible, would it harm the engine to wait a couple of months for fine tuning?

Thanks everyone!

Greetings from the Netherlands:laugh2:
 

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Welcome to the green side!

Does the laser pipe have a bung to retain the stock o2 sensor?

I don`t have any experience tuning the gen 4 but I have on other gen`s.
I know other people here have gen 4 tuning experience, so maybe they will chime in with more accurate advice regarding your config.

But I suggest to:
1. Wait. Depending on how you ride you will probably not do any damage, but it will certainly not run optimal. Looking at a few dynojet maps for a similar config as yours, you will be maybe 10-15% too lean in some medium-high load areas. This will probably put you above 14:1 afr and beyond what is "fine tuning". Now, the dynojet maps are more than likely not correct, but they do give a pointer when a couple of them more or less correlate.

2. As this is a 2011, skip the powercommander and get it tuned at a shop which has a dyno and the possibility of editing maps directly in the ECU. You can tune more things than just fuel. But don`t expect the massive gains the US bikes get from a flash, yours is not restricted. In Norway you can get this done for a little more than the price of only the PCV hardware. Do some research of shops in the Netherlands.

If you like to tinker yourself and have some engine understanding, you can get a Woolich log box kit with a wideband o2 sensor and tune/flash yourself.
 

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It's fine.. no issues at all with damage concerns. You'll pick up some power and it'll be louder. It will be even better after you tune it.
 

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Hello Netherlands!:welcome: I miss that place every day, especially Amsterdam! ...especially the Red Light Dist.! ...especially the...ok ill shut up now!

I rode with a slip on for about a year before getting a PCIII. Wouldnt worry much with just a slip on. Im sure you'll be happier with the midpipe in instead of the cat.
:thedude:
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to the green side!

Does the laser pipe have a bung to retain the stock o2 sensor?

I don`t have any experience tuning the gen 4 but I have on other gen`s.
I know other people here have gen 4 tuning experience, so maybe they will chime in with more accurate advice regarding your config.

But I suggest to:
1. Wait. Depending on how you ride you will probably not do any damage, but it will certainly not run optimal. Looking at a few dynojet maps for a similar config as yours, you will be maybe 10-15% too lean in some medium-high load areas. This will probably put you above 14:1 afr and beyond what is "fine tuning". Now, the dynojet maps are more than likely not correct, but they do give a pointer when a couple of them more or less correlate.

2. As this is a 2011, skip the powercommander and get it tuned at a shop which has a dyno and the possibility of editing maps directly in the ECU. You can tune more things than just fuel. But don`t expect the massive gains the US bikes get from a flash, yours is not restricted. In Norway you can get this done for a little more than the price of only the PCV hardware. Do some research of shops in the Netherlands.

If you like to tinker yourself and have some engine understanding, you can get a Woolich log box kit with a wideband o2 sensor and tune/flash yourself.

Great! Thanks! Well, the midpipe has a hole for the lambda sensor, only it is made for a racing sensor, therefore i had to buy an adapter! Yesterday I put on the midpipe! Will be uploading a vid in a minute if that's possible on the forum. I love this forum already!

Thank you very much for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Welcome to the green side!

Does the laser pipe have a bung to retain the stock o2 sensor?

I don`t have any experience tuning the gen 4 but I have on other gen`s.
I know other people here have gen 4 tuning experience, so maybe they will chime in with more accurate advice regarding your config.

But I suggest to:
1. Wait. Depending on how you ride you will probably not do any damage, but it will certainly not run optimal. Looking at a few dynojet maps for a similar config as yours, you will be maybe 10-15% too lean in some medium-high load areas. This will probably put you above 14:1 afr and beyond what is "fine tuning". Now, the dynojet maps are more than likely not correct, but they do give a pointer when a couple of them more or less correlate.

2. As this is a 2011, skip the powercommander and get it tuned at a shop which has a dyno and the possibility of editing maps directly in the ECU. You can tune more things than just fuel. But don`t expect the massive gains the US bikes get from a flash, yours is not restricted. In Norway you can get this done for a little more than the price of only the PCV hardware. Do some research of shops in the Netherlands.

If you like to tinker yourself and have some engine understanding, you can get a Woolich log box kit with a wideband o2 sensor and tune/flash yourself.

Thank you for the information! I will look into the shops.
There is a place for the lambda sensor in the midpipe, however, the hole is too big and only fits a racing sensor. Therefore i had to buy an adapter for the stock sensor, but it fits!

Yesterday I replaced the cat for the midpipe and the result in sound is amazing! I will upload a vid if that's possible on the forum!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's fine.. no issues at all with damage concerns. You'll pick up some power and it'll be louder. It will be even better after you tune it.
Great! Yesterday I replaced the cat. Now i got to save for the tuning part and i will be picking up a K&N filter upcoming saturday!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Welcome to the green side!

Does the laser pipe have a bung to retain the stock o2 sensor?

I don`t have any experience tuning the gen 4 but I have on other gen`s.
I know other people here have gen 4 tuning experience, so maybe they will chime in with more accurate advice regarding your config.

But I suggest to:
1. Wait. Depending on how you ride you will probably not do any damage, but it will certainly not run optimal. Looking at a few dynojet maps for a similar config as yours, you will be maybe 10-15% too lean in some medium-high load areas. This will probably put you above 14:1 afr and beyond what is "fine tuning". Now, the dynojet maps are more than likely not correct, but they do give a pointer when a couple of them more or less correlate.

2. As this is a 2011, skip the powercommander and get it tuned at a shop which has a dyno and the possibility of editing maps directly in the ECU. You can tune more things than just fuel. But don`t expect the massive gains the US bikes get from a flash, yours is not restricted. In Norway you can get this done for a little more than the price of only the PCV hardware. Do some research of shops in the Netherlands.

If you like to tinker yourself and have some engine understanding, you can get a Woolich log box kit with a wideband o2 sensor and tune/flash yourself.
Thanks for all the information! I guess I'll just find a shop to help me tuning the bike next year. Yesterday I replaced the cat for the midpipe. There is a place for the lambda sensor in the midpipe but I had to use an adapter to make it fit. Could you tell me what the reason would be to skip the powercommander?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hello Netherlands!:welcome: I miss that place every day, especially Amsterdam! ...especially the Red Light Dist.! ...especially the...ok ill shut up now!

I rode with a slip on for about a year before getting a PCIII. Wouldnt worry much with just a slip on. Im sure you'll be happier with the midpipe in instead of the cat.
:thedude:
Hello somewhere else than the Netherlands!:hello:

The Netherlands is great! Except for the amount you have to pay for speeding fines.... Those amounts are insane.

Yesterday I replaced the cat... Oh lord that sound is amazing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There is only one little problem guys....

I tightened the straps around the joints but there is a small amount of air leaking and I have no idea how that would be possible. Any ideas on how to fix this?

Unfortunately It isn't possible to add .mp4 files, how am I ever going to be able to show you guys the vid?!
 

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Thanks for all the information! I guess I'll just find a shop to help me tuning the bike next year. Yesterday I replaced the cat for the midpipe. There is a place for the lambda sensor in the midpipe but I had to use an adapter to make it fit. Could you tell me what the reason would be to skip the powercommander?
Ok. The bung is for the larger 18mm wideband sensors then, but the adapter works just fine as long as the sensor tip is in the exhaust flow.

If you use the power commander, you would need a o2 optimizer as well to control the closed loop area. And it will still not be 100% optimal in that range. The o2 optimizer is another $100 in the US. Probably more in your country.
And you should get it tuned in a shop on top of the 500+ bucks you will pay for just the PCV hardware.

Editing the ECU gives you a lot of tunable options for probably about the same price. Find a shop who can do this. Have a look here for the possibilities.
2011-2015 Kawasaki ZX10R - USB (Mitsubishi) v3 Package
 

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There is only one little problem guys....

I tightened the straps around the joints but there is a small amount of air leaking and I have no idea how that would be possible. Any ideas on how to fix this?

Unfortunately It isn't possible to add .mp4 files, how am I ever going to be able to show you guys the vid?!
The link pipe might have a slight oval shape. First try moving the clamps around a little in all directions. If nothing helps you can try with some super thin "exhaust leak fix aluminium tape" from a auto parts store. On the inner flange, as a filler. If needed in combination with exhaust mounting paste.

If the leak is before the o2 sensor you should get it fixed. If it is after, it`s just more of an annoyance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok. The bung is for the larger 18mm wideband sensors then, but the adapter works just fine as long as the sensor tip is in the exhaust flow.

If you use the power commander, you would need a o2 optimizer as well to control the closed loop area. And it will still not be 100% optimal in that range. The o2 optimizer is another $100 in the US. Probably more in your country.
And you should get it tuned in a shop on top of the 500+ bucks you will pay for just the PCV hardware.

Editing the ECU gives you a lot of tunable options for probably about the same price. Find a shop who can do this. Have a look here for the possibilities.
2011-2015 Kawasaki ZX10R - USB (Mitsubishi) v3 Package
Thanks! I will get into it!

:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The link pipe might have a slight oval shape. First try moving the clamps around a little in all directions. If nothing helps you can try with some super thin "exhaust leak fix aluminium tape" from a auto parts store. On the inner flange, as a filler. If needed in combination with exhaust mounting paste.

If the leak is before the o2 sensor you should get it fixed. If it is after, it`s just more of an annoyance.
Well, unfortunately it is at both sides. The air escapes around the area where the bolt tightens the clamp. See attached image for an example. At both sides, such clamps are used where on the web, I often see those completely closed clamps. I'll try to move the clamps around and see what happens otherwise use the leak fix tape!

Again, thank you very much for sharing the knowledge:beer2:
 

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Well, unfortunately it is at both sides. The air escapes around the area where the bolt tightens the clamp. See attached image for an example. At both sides, such clamps are used where on the web, I often see those completely closed clamps. I'll try to move the clamps around and see what happens otherwise use the leak fix tape!

Again, thank you very much for sharing the knowledge:beer2:
I see. You can usually find better fully closing clamps at the auto parts store to try as well before messing with the tape and paste. Just measure the size you need and see what you can find. :smile2: I am using those type of clamps on my bike. Good luck!
 
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