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Discussion Starter #1
The manual says that a special tool (Kawasaki Hand Tester 57001-1394) is required to test the voltage regulator/rectifier and that using a multimeter may damage the unit. Is this true? I don't have a multimeter with 12V battery in it or anything, it's just a little ol' thing if you know what I mean.

What is the best way to test it? My battery is not charging. Bike has 12k miles on the money, so I'm hoping it's not the stator and want to check the voltage regulator first. What's the best way to do this?
 

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I am pretty sure when my stator went out that I tested it with a cheapo volt-meter from harbor freight. I can't remeber the steps I used to test it though, I'm pretty sure I followed what's in the service manual.
 

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Could swear my manual said to use a Voltmeter. I use Haynes Manuals, whats yours? But yea i tested mine with one, i think many of us have???
 

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Just a suggestion, maybe better to start at the charging source end and confirm its not the stator? It`s only 3 measurements and you can use your regular voltmeter. My stator went at almost exactly the same milage as you have BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm using the Kawasaki Service Manual. I'll just start poking around with my multimeter. I thought what they said about the special tool was bullshit anyway.
 

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Wow....why do you guys do it the hard way?

Take your voltmeter and put it across the battery terminals when the bike is running. If it reads 12v or less then the battery is not being charged. Not sure what the operating voltage on a bike is but I'm assuming it should be 13.8-14v, like on a car.

From my experience, a voltage regulator usually ( I said usually) allows the battery to over charge when it's faulty.
So, I'm going to take an educated guess here and say your stator is the culprit.....
 

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Wow....why do you guys do it the hard way?

Take your voltmeter and put it across the battery terminals when the bike is running. If it reads 12v or less then the battery is not being charged. Not sure what the operating voltage on a bike is but I'm assuming it should be 13.8-14v, like on a car.

From my experience, a voltage regulator usually ( I said usually) allows the battery to over charge when it's faulty.
So, I'm going to take an educated guess here and say your stator is the culprit.....
This sounds very similar to what I did. It'll tell ya in the service manual what it should be charging at.

And at 12K is around the mileage that a lot of people were starting to have trouble with their stators. Mine went out around 22K-25K if I remember correctly. My situation was horrible, was stranded in the middle of no where at night, in the rain about an hour away from home. :frown:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I already checked voltage across the battery terminals and know that at 5000 RPM the alternator should put out 14 volts, per the manual. This is the whole reason for the post. I'm trouble shooting from there back, so I suppose I should have prefaced my post about not being an idiot.

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Discussion Starter #10
Hell, I was hoping for the regulator to be bad only because I thought it was a lot cheaper to replace, but it's only a $50 difference.

I like $50 as much as anyone, it's just not what I expected.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All my tests are saying stator. Is it possible it's gone so far that it's putting out 0 volts? Just making sure that I tested correctly, since I don't really have a positive control to work with.

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Discussion Starter #13
According to the manual, based on the resistance readings, the stator has a short and needs replaced.

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Also, will the coil look bad when I pull it?

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Since it`s shorted it will probably look burned in some places. If some of the epoxy coating is burned and crumbled off you might want to consider changing the oil and filter at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Since it`s shorted it will probably look burned in some places. If some of the epoxy coating is burned and crumbled off you might want to consider changing the oil and filter at the same time.
Good call. Thanks.

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Hell, I was hoping for the regulator to be bad only because I thought it was a lot cheaper to replace, but it's only a $50 difference.

I like $50 as much as anyone, it's just not what I expected.
Hmm... how else would you check the regulator, without a multimeter?

My service manual for my 08 says the following- see pictures.

Pull the rectifier and you are checking for resistance between the connections. What do you see in your manual?

Get the harbor freight multimeter. I did mine with that and found it to be faulty. See the service manual pages and then the harbor freight meter where I highlighted relevant info.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Look at the service manual for the Gen2 and you'll see the reason for my question. I'm not a fucking idiot. It's a legitimate question based on the service manual.

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Nice. Classy guy here.

The hand tester is a meter.

What's the difference in the gen 2 manual ?
Class? Bite me. This thread was dead after my question had been dealt with and I used my multimeter to test the stator. I posted my findings here, in this thread, but you just read the first post and decided to be a wise guy. Feel free to get the last word in.

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Class? Bite me. This thread was dead after my question had been dealt with and I used my multimeter to test the stator. I posted my findings here, in this thread, but you just read the first post and decided to be a wise guy. Feel free to get the last word in.

Sent from my XT1045 using Tapatalk
 
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