[gen1_josh]

i have been reading on here a lot and have searched, but im trying to figure out what would be the best combo for me. that said its currently a street bike but wanna start taking it to the track so i want whats ideal for the 1/4 but but also good for on the street and some back country 6th gear blasts

from what ive noticed its gonna be really hard to come by gen 1-3 race cams

so i was thinking about getting the stock cams degreed and was looking for input on what i should have them degreed to for the intake and exhaust cams.

i was planing on having the head decked a little bit and a .45 head gasket as well

my bike currently has
a two bros pipe
44t rear sprocket
and a pc3

i am also going to remove the secondary flies this week and order a block of kit and a bmc filter

thanks for any help

 

[gen1_josh]

oh and also gonna have the valves adjusted and thinking new valve springs when the head gets opened up.

 

[badassjake]

104/104 is an all around happy point.......you know the performance of stock.....then the upper numbers of 108/106-sh for a motor that acts more like a 600

 

[zx racer]

105/105 works good and i wouldnt worry about the valve springs if your gona be runnin stock cams rather spend that money toward some gen3 retainers which are drop ins better upgrade for gen1.

 

[badassjake]

105/105 works good and i wouldnt worry about the valve springs if your gona be runnin stock cams rather spend that money toward some gen3 retainers which are drop ins better upgrade for gen1.

+1

 

[gen1_josh]

thanks guys.

and then while using a a .45mm head gasket how far should i go on decking the head

 

[badassjake]

with stock pistons........0.01" to 0.015" is plenty

 

[gen1_josh]

thanks thats what i have seen around.

 

[gazx10]

deck .015 with .45 mm hg., int. cam 107 ex. 104. gen 3 stk. int good cheap option degreed at 110. finish with good tune and ul run strong.

 

[RIKKITIK]

+1
107 int 104 exh with thin HG or with thin HG + cut.
Good gains over stock from 4k up. :biggrin:

 

[gen1_josh]

is the gen 3 intake degreed to 110 worth it compared to stock gen 1 at 107?

 

[gazx10]

surprising how fast gen 1 will run with stk. cams degreed and mods ur planning with good tune. gen 3 make a little more power, not a big deal.

 

[gen1_josh]

surprising how fast gen 1 will run with stk. cams degreed and mods ur planning with good tune. gen 3 make a little more power, not a big deal.

thanks im gonna stick with the stock cams degreed and save the gen 3 for future itch. this is gonna be one sick machine

thanks guys

 

[sccadsr31]

The stock cams or even the racing cams cannot be degree'd without using either a special cam gear or relocating the original gears to the slotted holes.
If you look carefully at the picture of the exhaust gear you can see a witness mark where a bolt was in the round hole just about the new timing mark I have scribed on the gear. By moving the location of the gear on the cam and remarking the gear timing mark the original Kawasaki gears can be used to degree the cams.
Here are pictures of the gen 1 cam gears note intake gear is rotated 12 teeth CCW and the exhaust is CW 8 teeth. With a think head gasket and the head cut 0.015 in using clay on the head and roughly the same cam numbers i had 0.040 in valve clearance. I use "0" lash by putting a feeler gauge between the cam and the lifter bucket and 0.040 in of lift.

 

[gazx10]

not understanding what ur doing.

 

[sccadsr31]

I apologize for the lack of detail explanation of the cam gear pictures, the above post has been edited to describe the why and what.

By moving the stock cam gear to the slotted holes that are in the gears they can be effectively used to degree the cams saving the cost of buying special gears to degree cams.

To accurately degree cams all the valve lash must taken out of the valve lift to determine the actual lobe centers and adjust it to the desired location. On engines like the current Kawasaki's that have lifter 'buckets" with valve shims that cannot be easily changed it is simpler to just use a feeler gauge of the correct size to make the zero lash. Using a dial indicator positioned on the bucket the fist degree measurement is taken at 0.040in of lift, at that point the cam is well off the opening part of the cam used to "gently" lift the valve off the cam, and likewise on the closing side the measurement is taken 0.040in lift to take the "gentle" closing ramp out of the measurement. You could use other amounts of initial and closing lift; 0.040 is just what I grew up with and the number given to me years ago by the likes of Isky, Snyder, Elgin, and MegaCycle.
BTW with the current models the starter drive needs to be removed so the engine can be turned both ways. This is necessary when finding true top dead center.

The next time I degree a cam I'll take more pictures and see if i can use my Gopro to capiture it.

David


This a 1990 ZX10 but you can see the degree wheel and the piston stop being used to find top dead center.

This what I do with used parts

This is what the engine is in, I'll be running at ThunderHill on the 11,12,13th

 

[gazx10]

i use a piece of feeler guage cut and inserted between shim and bucket. understand, been degreeing cams over 30 years.

 

[gen1_josh]

I think I wrapped my head around that

 

[Nelso]

deck .015 with .45 mm hg., int. cam 107 ex. 104. gen 3 stk. int good cheap option degreed at 110. finish with good tune and ul run strong.

Are you saying to either run a stock gen 1 intake cam at 107, or a stock gen 3 intake cam at 110? What sort of gains do you get using the gen 3 intake cam over the stock gen 1 cam?

 

[gazx10]

gen 3 int. stk. or race will make more power degreed right. 07 just made 193 with headwork and 08 race, stk. ex. cam on mr12 and extended rev. ran 159 earlier this month at valdosta still getting the bugs out.