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Hello all.... I'm new to the forum. Bare with me please... Ok get down to the facts. 2016 ZX10 just cleared 28000 miles. Been through the CCT under warranty and actuall recall... Recently had it adjusted because of slack... Chain is still making noise. I have gotten another option... Cam chain stretched beyond tensioner limits ?
Help... I'm still paying for this bike and thinking it might GRENADE on me..
Thanks in advance !
 

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Loud on cold start but quiets down a little when it comes up to temperature but the guy that tunes my bike says there is no way it should be that loud after oil circulates and engine comes up to temperature. Like I mentioned 2 CCT replacements and one supposed CCT adjustment and still rattling. Is this the way a well broken in 2016 should sound ? I trust my Tuner Guy over the dealership unfortunately but my Tuner is more of a Suzuki guy and never seen or heard a gen 5 with 28000 miles. Just seems like a pretty expensive job after 3 years... I do a lot of of long distance... Out of state trips. If rather not have bike break down far away. Thanks for responding so quickly.
 

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2016 Kawasaki ZX-10R KRT ABS Edition
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Just get the APE manual tensioner and adjust with your hand slowly till the noise goes away. Don't go torquing that b**** down or anything, just finger, FINGER, tight. Do a cold start adjust till the noise is faint or gone. Go out around the block. Come back with the bike warm, and if you still hear noise adjust 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time, go around the block again, and repeat. It's better to be finger tight with faint noise then torqued the F down and no noise what-so-ever.
 

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Some noise is normal. You don't want a super tight cam chain. I'd have to hear it to see, I've never trusted manual tensioner on an every day bike
 

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Hey I have a 2017 zx10r and it has only 7,000 miles and it makes a horrible cam chain noise! It's normal man I did a bunch of research and found out that's just how it is! You have to understand you are sitting right on top of the engine basically! If you rode around in your car while sitting under the hood you would think your car is gonna blow up ! Lol. Now that other guy is correct, use the ape cam chain tensioner and do exactly what he said and you will find that it can become alot less noisy . Now you could have an issue with yours but I highly doubt it! Mine is really noisy when it's cold and almost goes away when it's hot but then sometimes I'll hear it again so it is what it is, go buy the ape tensioner and you'll be happy. Oh one more thing, EJR PERFORMANCE on you tube, he is a badass bike mechanic especially with gen5"s and he even said the same things !
 

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Formerly CLCRACINGAaron
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About 2500 miles of track only use...2016 Gen5. That chain shouldn't be retaining it's original shape btw... KWS Motorsport told me that they replace the tensioner guide with the Gen4 part number and have never had to an issue.
 

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About 2500 miles of track only use...2016 Gen5. That chain shouldn't be retaining it's original shape btw... KWS Motorsport told me that they replace the tensioner guide with the Gen4 part number and have never had to an issue.
Jesus foocking Christ thats the worst chain iv ever seen :surprise:
 

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What exactly am I seeing here I'm a little confused? Obviously it's a cam chain and stuff. I've seen them before even held them in my hand , that one definitely looks worn out but what exactly caused it? It usually takes many more miles than that to kill a chain!
 

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Formerly CLCRACINGAaron
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The Gen5 tensioner guide was changed from the Gen4. The Gen4 will work in the 5 and will last much much longer. It's just Kawasaki cutting corners. As for the chain, that isn't so easily fixed. The Gen4's have the same problems, so just replace the chain whenever your in the motor is the best option, nothing else you can do realistically.

Bike is a 2016 with about 2500 track and race miles on it. It's done at least one Daytona 200 (not by me) and then sat for awhile I think. I got it early 2018 and did about 500 miles of trackdays. I run low to mid A group pace, depending on the track. I use Motul 300V oil.
 

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Hey I have a 2017 zx10r and it has only 7,000 miles and it makes a horrible cam chain noise! It's normal man I did a bunch of research and found out that's just how it is! You have to understand you are sitting right on top of the engine basically! If you rode around in your car while sitting under the hood you would think your car is gonna blow up ! Lol. Now that other guy is correct, use the ape cam chain tensioner and do exactly what he said and you will find that it can become alot less noisy . Now you could have an issue with yours but I highly doubt it! Mine is really noisy when it's cold and almost goes away when it's hot but then sometimes I'll hear it again so it is what it is, go buy the ape tensioner and you'll be happy. Oh one more thing, EJR PERFORMANCE on you tube, he is a badass bike mechanic especially with gen5"s and he even said the same things !
Installing bolt on's does not make you a badass mechanic. While advising to change to a manual cct seems logical, it's not a good idea unless you really know what you're doing. I've seen a couple of overtightened manual cct's cause a lot of damage.

The Gen 4 style (which is also the same as the Gen 5 recall replacement) can be manually adjusted a notch at a time. If done correctly it can be pretty much fool proof. The cam chain should make some noise. If it's dead silent, it's too tight.
 

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If you're running on the track, I'd use a manual tensioner. There's nothing like chopping the throttle from WFO and having your chain skip a tooth to make a believer out of you. Adjustment is not complicated. Loose, it will rattle. As you tighten it, it will quiet down, then start to make a new noise as it rubs the tensioning block excessively. Loosen it until you're back in the quiet zone. A trick to feel better about where you are is to take the bolt and spring out of the back of the oem tensioner before you remove it. I've not held the oem 10r tensioner in my hand, but if it's like every other one I've seen, there is a toothed ratchet mechanism to keep it from moving backwards, so pulling the spring won't affect it's position. If you want, you can even put a depth gauge like a tire tread gauge or similar in the hole to make sure the stock plunger didn't move during removal. Now you've got an idea what the stock extension was, and can use that as a guide to preset the manual tensioner. If you buy the APE and it doesn't come with a gasket, probably best not to use an oem gasket. Just a bead of silicone. Some bikes will spew oil with an APE tensioner if you use an oem gasket.
 
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