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Discussion Starter #1
So I just got a 2019 zx10r and thE manual says not to go over 4000 rpm for 500 miles. Then not to go over 6000 miles until 1000 miles. Why doesn’t the factory break these engines in the right way ?
 

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Bro the ZX10R engines have already been ran on a dyno multiple times before being assembled with the rest of the bike...there is no "break in"...have fun!
 

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Uh, the break-in policy from the manufacturer has to account for the vast majority of people who have more money than brains. If they tell someone who just bought their first literbike that it's OK to go to redline right off the floor, then people will do just that. How different can a motorcycle be from driving a car? After all that money was spent they should be able to see how fast they go, right? And that 12 month warranty covers anything that can happen from going to balls out with all that assembly lube in the motor and any possible issues with the parts being assembled. What could go wrong?

Nah, the break-in procedure has more to do with easing the rider into the bike and it's a carryover from the last few decades when it was more important to follow it.
 

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Bro the ZX10R engines have already been ran on a dyno multiple times before being assembled with the rest of the bike...there is no "break in"...have fun!
Wished Id known that 800 miles ago ! I couldnt tell who was getting more irritated me or the bike ! lol
I run Mobile 1 racing 4t synthetic in my 2015 z1000. I run kawi 10w40 conventional in the zx10 for break in and was going swap to the synthetic on the zx10 after the break in period. Whats your take on that?
 

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Wished Id known that 800 miles ago ! I couldnt tell who was getting more irritated me or the bike ! lol
I run Mobile 1 racing 4t synthetic in my 2015 z1000. I run kawi 10w40 conventional in the zx10 for break in and was going swap to the synthetic on the zx10 after the break in period. Whats your take on that?
Keep doing what you're doing. Swap to the Mobil 1 4T any point after the 1,000 mile point. Between 1,000 and 1,500 miles is a good point.
 

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I remember when you posted that vid. What a super shitty deal!
 

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lol starting to feel like a sucker ! Not really . Really enjoying the bike. going to get with you guys later on exhaust recommendations (sound - performance). Yes i am a newbie !
Don't feel like a sucka! I did a hard break-in on mine to, but it was more of a controlled exersize than a 'do whatever you want' thing. The biggest thing about the break-in is not to keep a constant RPM. You want to vary it around. Even cruising around on a highway or something, you need to accelerate and decelerate constantly in small amounts. That's better than just keeping the throttle steady at 4,000 rpm. And all that has to be done after the engine is fully up to temp after 10-20 miles of mild use at lower RPM.
 

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Don't feel like a sucka! I did a hard break-in on mine to, but it was more of a controlled exersize than a 'do whatever you want' thing. The biggest thing about the break-in is not to keep a constant RPM. You want to vary it around. Even cruising around on a highway or something, you need to accelerate and decelerate constantly in small amounts. That's better than just keeping the throttle steady at 4,000 rpm. And all that has to be done after the engine is fully up to temp after 10-20 miles of mild use at lower RPM.
thanks again. have a safe weekend !
 

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I agree with pretty much everyone except on the point of switching to Full Synthetic so soon. Even though the engine may be properly broke in long before the 1000 or 1500 mile mark the transmissions are not. They take a lot longer to really get bedded in so I generally do not condone Full Synthetic oil so early in the routine. I do change the oil early and frequently during break-in, but I don't switch to Synthetic.

The Wife's R6 had 109 Street miles on it when I took it to the track and rode the C Group to more or less finish the break-in without just thrashing the piss outta it. At just under 300 miles it got it's first oil change. The Shop R6 was barely any more miles when it got the same treatment.
444265
444266
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks guys. I spent the day going up and down the taconic State parkway at 65 miles an hour...
 

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thanks man !
I dumped the first oil shit out at 3 or 400 miles. Changed to more conventional oil but added a bottle of zinc break in addative by Lucas. It just helps smooth and fill in areas that are slightly uneven etc. It's mainly used in race engines on v8 etc but figure it can't hurt. Doesn't mess with the clutch etc. Run that till 1k miles and then do one more reg oil change at that 1k point but no zinc that time. Run her till 2k miles and do a full flush, then swap to motul 7100 and am off..fyi. as long as you don't bounce her off the Rev limiter during the first 500 miles you will be fine. Ride it like you would ride on a normal day to day, just do it slightly smoother and try to work your way up and down a tad more gently. I have always felt like the bike runs like it did when u break it in. So the bikes j have been gentle with always seem kinda tamed but smoother vs the hard break in where the bike feels like it has more power but less areas without extra vibration. Who knows. They all run well if u change the damn oil regularly
 

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lol starting to feel like a sucker ! Not really . Really enjoying the bike. going to get with you guys later on exhaust recommendations (sound - performance). Yes i am a newbie !
I have over 35,000 miles on that bike now and it's just as strong as it's ever been. Even with racing it several times a year all I have ever had to do to it besides replacing all that broken plastic from the tire wall incident is check/adjust the valves a couple of times and replace a couple of clutches (I'm hard on clutches). Up until a few weeks ago I had the Graves Cat Eliminator with stock headers and a dyno tune.

A few weeks ago I went ahead and put the Graves header on as well and retuned as well as tweaked the ETV, quick shifter, and auto blipper maps. In fact after finally straitening those ETV maps out it's running so much better than it ever has. I hope I get to race it this year. The virus is putting that in doubt. My bike on my buddy Mike Taylor's dyno:

 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks twisted SoCal .... yeah my next question was going to be ...what are the symptoms of a poorly broken in engine ? Vibrations I guess?
 

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Thanks twisted SoCal .... yeah my next question was going to be ...what are the symptoms of a poorly broken in engine ? Vibrations I guess?
Yeah I mean kinda, nothing bad unless you rag it out in the first 500 miles. If your too rough on it you can actually get cracked piston rings cause although they are gapped from the factory and slightly run in, when you actually ride the thing with dynamic loads and throttle if you get em too hot too quick and put em through too much abuse before they are able to wear in you risk cracking them, possibly scoring the cylinder walls etc. But still you can get on her. Just don't be jerky or hard core snappy and try and keep her under 10k, don't ride her at anything higher than 8k for the first few hundred miles till you at least dump the initial oil. Wanna get the metal crap out of the oil pan before you start romping on her. And when j say vibration it's not like it shakes the bike. It's just that you can markedly notice when you hit that sweet spot you like to cruise at way more when u are harder on the break in. The bike actually smoothes way the hell out and purs at whatever rpm and speed you ride the most. The rest of the time they still run nice but the short 1500k rpm worth of your most comfy cruise speed just goes butter smooth
 
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