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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a 2023 zx10-r I'm getting ready to do the first oil change. I'm at 280 miles i understand i have to change oil at 500. I just don't know if it came with synthetic or convectional. It doesn't say on manual. Is it safe to switch to synthetic at 500? Or does all motorcycle come synthetic?
 

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Get it broken in on a dyno & tune if you have access to a suitable facility. Broken in the best way possible by a pro in 1 day! Plus you'll kill 2 birds with 1 stone. I'd do it this way if I had to go through a break in cycle again.

A pro can cycle the rpms properly through a series of staged acceleration and deceleration runs and the engine will bed in the absolute best way possible. It'll maximize the potential power the engine will ever be able to achieve We couldn't replicate this process on the street unless we had a completely empty highway.
 
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If i known about that I'd done it 😭😭.
It's probably not too late to do it now. Maybe your 280 mile street break in was too gentle and a dyno will free up extra hp that will never be unleashed if gently ridden for another 220 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was going under what the manual said to stay under 6k. I would take freeways mostly and wouldnt go above 6k. Usually sat under and would go slightly above. Im here scared im being too hard lol. I'll look into a dyno
 

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Yes, you can mix oil types, it's not the end of the world: if the bike came with fully mineral oil and the next change you pour fully synthetic you'll end up with probably 90% syntethic 10% mineral due to the residue left in the engine, expecially in the oil pan. During the next oil change pouring fully synthetic you'll get a higher percentage of synthetic and after a few oil changes it will be eventually 100% syntethic due to the mineral oil percentage getting lower and lower after each oil change.
 

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Thank you sir! That is exactly what i needed to read! I'm over here treating my bike like a baby afraid of blowing the motor. But technology is def changed then back then.
Engines are (or, should be) rev tested at the factory before delivered, so I don't think we need to baby it. Bringing it up to temp before riding it hard makes more sense. Manufacturer's recommendation to keeping the engine rev low for the first few thousands, I believe, is to make sure new owners learn to ride the bike more than anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Engines are (or, should be) rev tested at the factory before delivered, so I don't think we need to baby it. Bringing it up to temp before riding it hard makes more sense. Manufacturer's recommendation to keeping the engine rev low for the first few thousands, I believe, is to make sure new owners learn to ride the bike more than anything.
Yea that makes more sense. Too many people wanting to get crazy before learning. I jumped from a Prius "Z900" to this ninja. And maaaan the power difference is insane lol.
 

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Before I start on the engine break in method, let me tell you a story of "knife forums". When you start sharpening your own knifes, you might ask: "should I scrub it on the whetstone against the blade, or with the blade?"

When you get three answers, you'll end up with five conflicting ideas about what's best, until the guy shows up who as access to a SEM, and mumbles something about mycro scratches. In the end, it does not matter. Both methods work fine, but boy are people opinionated about it.

The MotoMan method of engine break in is one of those. We live in s world with variance. Not every engine is equal when it leaves the factory. Anything you do during break in, you'd have to show at the very least your power difference is significant. But for decades, the MotoMan gets shared as 'the method' and 'boy is it sure important'.

The best comparison I've found so far is from revZilla
 

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Before I start on the engine break in method, let me tell you a story of "knife forums". When you start sharpening your own knifes, you might ask: "should I scrub it on the whetstone against the blade, or with the blade?"

When you get three answers, you'll end up with five conflicting ideas about what's best, until the guy shows up who as access to a SEM, and mumbles something about mycro scratches. In the end, it does not matter. Both methods work fine, but boy are people opinionated about it.

The MotoMan method of engine break in is one of those. We live in s world with variance. Not every engine is equal when it leaves the factory. Anything you do during break in, you'd have to show at the very least your power difference is significant. But for decades, the MotoMan gets shared as 'the method' and 'boy is it sure important'.

The best comparison I've found so far is from revZilla
At 4:25 onwards... ring end gap difference. What do you make of it?
 

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I ride all my new motorcycles like I stole it. I bought my first ninja 600 in 86 and have had at the least 15 of them and always rode it like that when new. I have never had a problem with blowing up the engine. I have done it porschenuts way also more times then not. Highly recommend!! It's not to late. Have fun. I'm waiting on my new zx10 rr now should be in by February. Weather permitting I will be redlining within the first mile marker.
 

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At 4:25 onwards... ring end gap difference. What do you make of it?

You mean
Top Ring End Gap: 0.0130” at install, 0.0145” after 1,000 miles

Vs

Top Ring End Gap: 0.0130” at install, 0.0150” after 1,000 miles
?

Thickness of human hair ranges from 0.0023" to 0.0071", and thickness of oil film can be up to 0.0004". Yes, it is a difference, but that this is a difference due to the break-in method is left to prove.

The original MotoMan claim is that engine break-in is vital for performance. For specifically any engine. Depending on the version of the text, it claims up to ~5% gain over the whole rev-range (an old german version claimed 10bhp gain over the whole range. Which is BS). Plus it claims a certain mechanism (KREUZSCHLIFF) on how this gain should be achieved. The RevZilla test is actually perfect. It is more extreme than the MotoMan. IF your time at WoT is actually important for break-in, you would see a difference, and you could verify by what mechanism. If the piston rings would be broken in differently, you would make the difference more extreme and easier to detect. Like, maybe MotoMan is correct in the performance gain, but wrong about the mechanism.

But what we get is a textbook example of a NULL-Result. If I ever go back to teaching this stuff, I would take this as an example.

So what about the end gap? Who cares. If the MotoMan claims were true, and the broken-in engine would produce more HP with the same revs, it would have to have a higher compression. But it does not. There is no performance gain. Edit: So, even with the more extreme version they were hard pressed to find any measurable difference. Much less a noticeable one. With any less extreme break-in, the difference would be even smaller. If MotoMan was actually correct, you would find SOMETHING. Something would have happened. Even if the break-in was too extreme, you should then be able to point at something which would improve performance, if it was less extreme. But there is not.

Again, the revzilla test is the most scientificky I have seen in this area, and its resulsts say: Forget about it. Rev it, keep it down low, it does not really matter for your engine performance. Just let the oil flow around the engine please. It takes longer than you'd think.

I ride all my new motorcycles like I stole it. I bought my first ninja 600 in 86 and have had at the least 15 of them and always rode it like that when new. I have never had a problem with blowing up the engine. I have done it porschenuts way also more times then not. Highly recommend!! It's not to late. Have fun. I'm waiting on my new zx10 rr now should be in by February. Weather permitting I will be redlining within the first mile marker.
Have fun. Just keep your new+cold tyres in mind. You don't wanna be the gixxer guy and scratch it on the parking lot.
 
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