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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first 10r as I have had many bikes prior (R1, GSXR) and I do have to say the brakes such suck. I thought there was something wrong and re-bled with no bubbles and it is just not very responsive like my prior bikes. I have heard that the bikes are notorious for not having very good brakes but did not think they where this bad. UGH!!!!! I do like the bike otherwise by the way so not bashing the bike. I wonder if I go to brembo master or something if that will get it much better or a waste of $?
 

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The brembo is pretty sweet. Many just swap out the master cylinder for a newer zx-6r or zx-14. A lot of people also put different calipers on. I know personally the brembo master works good for me. You just have to figure out a way to make the brake lights work...
 

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Brembo did nothing for me, till I switched calipers. IMO the whole braking system from a late model zx6r or a zx14 is money better spent.

Do a bit more reading if you like, there are prolly 60 theads on this topic.
 

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Night and day difference between the stock system and the one from a late model ZX6, or an identical ZX14 one. It's all pure bolt on to boot.
 

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Swap the master to a newer ZX6-10-14 any of them will work.. Radial style of course.. Hell it could even come from a Suzuki or Honda or Yamaha for that matter.. Then locate yourself a set of ZX14 calipers and some good lines.. I like the -2 Goodridge stuff.. Very nice quality and the -2 really gives a nice feel..and you're set! If you still desire more get a set of Vesrah SRJL Pads and you're brakes will be so damn close to top shelf stuff that you can't justify the extra cost.. Of course if you want some damn nice top shelf units get in touch with a man named Wal Saunders at the STOP SHOP

http://www.thestopshop.co.uk/about.php


and get the Full Race Kit with Iron rotors! I have these and without doubt they are the best money can buy this side of Carbon/Carbon and those aren't good for street use because the heat required to make them work is far below street temps... Also Axis has a CArbon Matrix Rotor that is VERY NICE, BUT THEY COST A SMALL FORTUNE AND THEY DON'T KEEP THEM FOR MANY APPLICATIONS !

I hope I helped with your questions and outlined several options... I had the ZX14 set up on my 10R and it was plenty and the cost didn't break me up... The PFMs I have are on a 12R of mine.. There's a couple of guys here on site with the PFMs that have posted up and everyone says they are great just as I do.. Wal owns and runs that whole operation and he's also the man you deal with! I purchased strait from him and he's a very stand up guy! A man of his word and he builds the best. He's proud of his work and stands behind what he sells. His Rotor set up is second to NONE! You can literally change the rotor blade in less than 1 minute one the wheel is off with NO TOOLS! He's onto something special for sure..
 

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Brembo master cylinder
SS lines
Calipers from a 2006 CBR1000RR (need spacers to get it to work)

Bike stops on a dime, no brake fade during insane track runs, with excellent progressive feel for those hairy moments on slick pavement, gravel, or old drivers that think you are invisible.
 

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Really don't need a Brembo MC. Just get ant MC from a 2006 ZX10R and upwards, they are radial unlike the 04/05 10R MC. AND get yourself a pair of used ZX14 NISSIN calipers.
Like mentioned already, there are like 100 threads on this exact subject. The caliper swap and going to a newr 10R radial MC is the best and cheapest way to get top brakes. The Brembo MC is really not needed.
 

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They ain't that bad, just change the lines with some good SS and swap the brake pads; I'm running some EBC pad I got from a track day vendor. I don't see how it can get much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The problem I have is just super spongy and not very tight brake lever. There might be an issue with the master as it can't be this bad.
 

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I track my bike and brake fade was huge and it has braided lines and HH pads. Bolted on the calipers from a 14 and no more fade. Just got done running NJMP for the last 2 days. due to the location of the bleeder on the stock calipers, you can't get every bit of air out.
 

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The problem I have is just super spongy and not very tight brake lever. There might be an issue with the master as it can't be this bad.
That's what I thought too, gota be the master. After the $400 Brembo MC did squat, I ordered the ZX6 calipers the next day.
 

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I track my bike and brake fade was huge and it has braided lines and HH pads. Bolted on the calipers from a 14 and no more fade...
..........After the $400 Brembo MC did squat, I ordered the ZX6 calipers the next day.
:+2: ZX-6 or ZX-14 (identical) NISSIN calipers (bolt-on) and ss lines. Night and day.
 

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I've got a set of ZX14 NISSIN calipers in excellent shape if you're interested in buying some. They bolt right up. No spacers required. $185 shipped to your door. I'll include brand new OEM ZX14 front brake lines for an extra $15.
 

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They ain't that bad, just change the lines with some good SS and swap the brake pads; I'm running some EBC pad I got from a track day vendor. I don't see how it can get much better.
Change your calipers and you will post back that you made a HUUGE mistake in that post.
I upgraded to 2010 10R calipers on my 07 AFTER i had already ran the stock Tokico pcs of junk calipers, SS dual lines, stock radial MC, and EBC HH pads. The EBC HH pads and SS lines and new performance fluid made an improvement I agree. BUT, the stock Tokico Gen1 and Gen2 calipers are total junk. Until you either ride a 10R with Nissin caliper upgrade, CBR 1K monoblock calipers w/spacers,or the Gen3/4 10R calipers you really can't back up your statement and it is truely false man. Gotta call BS on it.
My switching to the Gen3 calipers and going with 310mm discs( ebc xc rotors, Vesrah RJL pads which are better than ebc hh pads) I have competiton worthy braking on a bike I drag race a LOT, lol. On the street I have 1 finger braking and my brake lever only moves inwards a half an inch during 100+mph hard/panic stops....I have my lever adjuster set on the FIRST closest click because I no longer have the lever coming anywhere near my knuckles. EVERYONE knows you have to have the adjustment clicker all the way out on like number 5 or 6 so the lever doesn't contact your knuckles if using stock gen1/2 calipers.

Has anyone read the reviews on the 2010+ Busa? Suzuki put the same Gen1/Gen2 10R Tokico calipers on it and every magazine commented on how badly they blow. Same comments that were said about Gen1/Gen2 10R brake reviews by magazines. Soon as the 08 10R came out not one more mention of shitty brakes.
 

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:+1: To what the others have said. I did 07 ZX6 calipers and 08 ZX10R m.c. along with stainless lines and Carbone Lorrainne pads. HUGE difference. You can do the m.c. and calipers for less than $200 too so thats a fairly inexpensive upgrade really.
 

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Gen2 Ripper
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CHANGE THE CALIPERS AND MC!!!!!!!

Lock thread. 1001 threads about upgrading calipers on Gen1 and Gen2 10R's is enough already.
 

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been looking to upgrade the calipers and the MC for a while .. how much you guys pay for the zx14 or zx6 used ones? for just the calipers? what about calipers + mc?
 

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Mythical Mod of Yore
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They ain't that bad, just change the lines with some good SS and swap the brake pads; I'm running some EBC pad I got from a track day vendor. I don't see how it can get much better.
wrong. the gen 1 master cylinder is axial and not radial like the 6r thats been suggested or many aftermarket master cylinders (a waste of $$ unless youre racing or spend all your time trying to shave milliseconds off your lap time in the A group on track days, imho). while swapping the calipers, adding braided lines and hi-per pads are great (and imho necessary) upgrades, the master cylinders on the gen 1 zx-10r's are pieces of underperforming crap...and that part is a fact, not mho.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i don't think I am down with swapping out calipers and MC and such. I got a great deal on this bike I might just sell it and buy something out.
 
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