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Discussion Starter #1
heres the deal, dudes: since i switched to ebc race pads i've had some gnarly noise from my brakes. seriously sounds like a big rig brake squeal. i've also, and thought this was a seperate problem, been feeling what i thought was play in the stem bearing. so today i went to tighten it, and we checked it first, and felt nothing. but if you rock the bike back and forth with the front brakes clamped on, you can feel the slight play i feel when riding. so we checked the forks and what not, nothing. however, if you hold slight pressure on the brake rotor, partly on the actual rotor surface, and partly on the gold portion in the center, you can feel some play. actually, if you look really close, you can see very slight movement around the round washer-looking deals that hold the "floating" rotor to the gold center section (pardon my lack of technical terms). so i switched back to my stock pads, and the noise is still there. which has me wondering if maybe the noise is actually because the rotors are moving around.

all of this to ask a question: are the rotors supposed to have any play like what i am describing?? i know nothing about the technical portion of my bike, so any help i can get is awesome. thanks!!

matt
 

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If your bike has floating rotors, yes, that is normal. Mine, when fully clamped down and rocked back and forth makes a slight clicking sound as well. I just replaced my steering head bearings and that noise is still there, the mech said that's normal with full floaters. My gold galfers squeek at slow speeds(light braking) but not under hard braking so I'm not sure about that.
 

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The difference between full floaters and your stockers are slight. Stockers have springs to keep the rotors from making noise... Thus they are semi floating rotors.

I posted this a while back on KawasakiWorld... (Stuff in quotes is from a PDF file I found.)




In my endless "browsing" of the net in search of brake knowledge, I got the bright idea about picking with the rotor buttons. An hour or so of searching turned up this (no pics):

"Stock Front Brake Rotors made Perfect for $0.00
I'd been cleaning, shaking, and freeing the front brake rotors from their carriers regularly on my '02 Mille for too long, just to have the rotor buttons tighten back up and my brakes start pulsing within a week or less of riding.

Enough was enough, but I wasn't about to spend $500+ on new rotors. I pulled my front wheel, removed the front rotors, and solved the problem in less than 30 minutes without spending a dime.

Since the fix, after 1,500+ miles, I've never felt a single brake pulse, nor have the rotor buttons/rivets even begun to seize up again.

In a nutshell, you'll turn "semi-floating" rotors into full floaters, without replacing the rivets.

Below is a picture of a Mille's brake rivet beforehand. The fringed-edge spring washer is the cause of the problem.

Notice the snugness of the fringed washer's edges to the rotor and carrier. A combination of the tight fit, oxidation from the different metals touching, and pocket created under the convex washer (trapping dirt/brake dust/etc.) are preventing the rotor from even "semi"-floating on it's carrier, resulting in brake pulse and eventually, if unchecked, rotor warpage.

Here's my tactic:

I sharpened the tip of a flat tip screwdriver, and used it to flatten the "fringed" spring washers found on the inside of the rotors' "semi-floating" rivets/buttons.

The key is just to flatten the convex fringed spring washers, without bending the fringes upward (ie: don't make them concave) . The edges of the washers shouldn't be more than 1mm off the surface of the rotor when you're done.

It's easiest to get underneath the edge of one of the spring washer's fringed edges by starting in the gap between the rotor and carrier. Once the screwdriver tip (or other equivalent sharp, narrow tipped chisel) is slid under the fringe, only lift it slightly to bend the fringe just barely away from the rotor.

Instead of having to work the sharp tip under each fringe of the washers, slide the tip sideways from one fringe to the next.

After the above procedure, the rivets should all be loose, and the flattened spring washers should spin on the rivet with only a light push with your finger. Grasp the assembly by the carrier, shake it, and the rotor should rattle a bit.

I sprayed the rotor rivets with brake cleaner when I was done, and the pressure of the spray can's stream was actually enough to spin the spring washers on the rivets!

The only even slightly negative result of this mod is the increased noise. With normal or even heavy braking, the difference in braking volume isn't noticeable, but ride over a pothole at low speed (without the brake on), and you'll hear the rotors jingle a bit. The tradeoff is well worth it."
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so if a little flex in the rotors is normal, any ideas as to where my unbearable noise would/could be coming from? i'm actually a brake/suspension mechanic for a living, and i've tried all my normal tricks, all to no avail. its so bad i've gotten used to using only the rear brake; i've gotten better at sliding the bike, though!!
 

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Let me know what you tried so that I won't start throwin out the same ideas.

First thing that come to mind is high pitched squeal. Second is glazed disc or pads... :crackup: See what I mean. I'm sure you have looked into that stuff already.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yea, i've checked that kind of stuff. pads are in good shape, and both sets of pads hav done the same thing. i even took some 120 grit on my da sander and lightly went after the rotor surface, thinking maybe it was slightly glazed. but this sound is strange: it only happens when hard on the brakes, and only when i get down to 10-15mph, and the sounds doesnt stop until the bike stops. if i'm doing 100 and jam on the brakes, no sound until 15mph or so. weird stuff.
 

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Stock rotors? Can you post a pic of the rotors?
 
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